what brand of slave cylinder to buy?

[bhawk]

94 ranger--- The last slave we installed lasted 2 years, it was a brand I can't recall the name of sold by O'reilly's. Couldn't have been much good so I have gone to the Rockauto website and I see they offer---AC Delco, Wagner, Bendix, Dorman, to name a few. Prices seem fine. Which would you choose?
I'm leaning to Bendix as they only offer one choice. Other makes have many choices and I'm confused as to whether I would be getting the correct application. Can a slave that fits a 94 ranger also be used on a 2005 ranger, for example?

 

[modelageek]

94 ranger--- The last slave we installed lasted 2 years, it was a brand I can't recall the name of sold by O'reilly's. Couldn't have been much good so I have gone to the Rockauto website and I see they offer---AC Delco, Wagner, Bendix, Dorman, to name a few. Prices seem fine. Which would you choose?
I'm leaning to Bendix as they only offer one choice. Other makes have many choices and I'm confused as to whether I would be getting the correct application. Can a slave that fits a 94 ranger also be used on a 2005 ranger, for example?

My suggestion is LUK. Pepboys sells them for about $85........I think the slaves might be a little different from year to year....are you sure it is the slave and not the MC

 

[bhawk]

It must be the slave because we recently replaced the master. it was leaking fluid around the seal in the master. Replaced it and bled it properly. It worked for a few days and then we get the grinding again going into gears, like we did when we replaced the slave 2 years ago. No fluid loss anywhere, so here goes another ton of work to get that sucker out.
Luc is not a brand sold by rock auto. There is no pepboys near me, so I have to consider another brand. Rockauto has the bendix and wagners and ac delco for about 45 bux.

 

[modelageek]

I bet you just have air in the system. Have you watched the videos about bleeding the system

 

[Tominator]

I bet you just have air in the system. Have you watched the videos about bleeding the system

Yep....bled and bled...walked away for a day....bled a couple more times and worked fine....very mind bending process.

BTW, they are all the same mfg! You pay for the name! Get the cheapest! These are VERY simple devices in any case...

Rockauto.com rocks....

 

[modelageek]

Bhawk. Did you bleed the MC BEFORE installing in the truck

 

[modelageek]

I bet you just have air in the system. Have you watched the videos about bleeding the system

please answer this question

 

[modelageek]

Luc is not a brand sold by rock auto. There is no pepboys near me, so I have to consider another brand. Rockauto has the bendix and wagners and ac delco for about 45 bux.

sorry I have no other recommendations other than LUK...........are you replacing anything besides the slave?

 

[bhawk]

Yes we bled the master well before installing. I have seen the video put out by Perfection clutch, albeit after we bleed the master on the bench before installing it. We got a rock hard master with only a tiny bit of down movement on the rod before installing it, as recommended by the video. After we installed the master, the clutch seemed to work fine for a few days, but after the truck gets hot the clutch will not fully disengage to enable easy shifts, and it grinds going into low or reverse. However, we intend to bleed the system again at the bleed screw on the slave, just in case some trapped air worked its way to the slave and is stuck there. I will let you know if it turns out that the bleeding did the trick, but if we didn't have bad luck with this truck, we'd have no luck at all.
Concerning all slaves built by the same manufacturer, that kind of makes sense, since every pic I have seen shows an identical slave. So are all these made in China and sold by different US part companies? That may explain the horrible quality of these slaves and why they don't last.

 

[modelageek]

Yes we bled the master well before installing. I have seen the video put out by Precision clutch, albeit after we bleed the master on the bench before installing it. We got a rock hard master with only a tiny bit of down movement on the rod before installing it, as recommended by the video. After we installed the master, the clutch seemed to work fine for a few days, but after the truck gets hot the clutch will not fully disengage to enable easy shifts, and it grinds going into low or reverse. However, we intend to bleed the system again at the bleed screw on the slave, just in case some trapped air worked its way to the slave and is stuck there. I will let you know if it turns out that the bleeding did the trick, but if we didn't have bad luck with this truck, we'd have no luck at all.
Concerning all slaves built by the same manufacturer, that kind of makes sense, since every pic I have seen shows an identical slave. So are all these made in China and sold by different US part companies? That may explain the horrible quality of these slaves and why they don't last.

there basically are 3 clutch manufacturers, but there are different quality products from each company.......I have replaced 3 clutches myself and read about 40,000 posts on this topic..............The most complete answer that I can give you is.....the best of a bad collection of products is the LUK.........

after you connected the line to the slave did you touch the pedal at all or did you just open the bleeder valve and let it gravity bleed for a while?

 

[bhawk]

great question modelageek.
After we bench bled the master until it was basically rock hard, we connected the quick coupler and proceeded to bleed the slave by loosening the bleeder screw and pushing the pedal down, closing the bleeder, letting pedal back up, then opening bleeder and pushing down on pedal, etc. like you bleed brakes.
I had a clear hose connected to the bleeder screw going into a clear bottle. Did not see any air come out after about 4 or 5 downstrokes on the pedal, so we stopped. Clutch seemed fine for a day or two, then the problems began.

 

[modelageek]

great question modelageek.
After we bench bled the master until it was basically rock hard, we connected the quick coupler and proceeded to bleed the slave by loosening the bleeder screw and pushing the pedal down, closing the bleeder, letting pedal back up, then opening bleeder and pushing down on pedal, etc. like you bleed brakes.
I had a clear hose connected to the bleeder screw going into a clear bottle. Did not see any air come out after about 4 or 5 downstrokes on the pedal, so we stopped. Clutch seemed fine for a day or two, then the problems began.

you are not suppose to touch the pedal. You connect the line of the prebleed MC and then open the bleeder valve and let it gravity bleed.....filling the reservoir as you go........that is most likely your issue........I saw this link this morning, go to post #67......maybe that would work for you if you don't want to remove the MC and start over http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/217115-clutch-slave-bleeding-help-5.html