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What axle do I have?? 1997 xlt 4x4


Copper6297

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2020
Messages
12
City
Washington
Vehicle Year
1997
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Hello,
New to the ranger game. I bought this 1997 ford ranger xlt 4x4 with a 4.0 and auto trans off of my dad a couple months ago. My dad had it for a few years and bought it off my grandpa who bought it new. I was wondering if anyone could help me out. I am under the assumption that this axle is a dana 35 ttb, but I can not find a tag or stamp anywhere to tell me. Could anyone tell me if it is a dana 35 or a dana 28?? I know this might be a dumb question, but I would like to know so that I can start ordering parts to rebuild this truck and make stronger.

Ultimate goal is to lift it, rebuild or engine swap it (its got almost 300k miles) and make it a nice daily/ weekend trail warrior, re do the whole interior (it was a work truck for grandpa and dad and dad was a smoker when he owned it).

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Welcome to the site. Pretty sure they stopped using Dana 28s in 89 or 90, maybe even 88.
 
should be a D35
 
Yes, should be a true D35 unless there aren't any fins on the diff housing, but I don't think there were any hybrids in '97, and for sure not a hybrid if it has a 4.0L.
 
Thank you everyone!! I am glad to be part of the group and can't wait to get building. I am sure I will be on here with many more questions as I go. @4x4junkie I really like your '94. I've been looking at the skyjacker lifts and going back and forth between getting the 4" or the 6". I really only want to go up to 33's and have some decent clearance between them and the fenders. Not sure what route would be best. I've seen people go with the 4" and a 2-3" body lift, but I don't really like the idea of a body lift.... IDK lots of stuff to decide on.

Anyways, thank you all for the help!!!
 
Your fender openings are bigger on your '97 than on my '90 and I have around 6" of lift to clear 35" tires with minimal rubbing, if I had better radius arms I bet they wouldn't rub... I would probably go with a 4" kit then space it up with some washers under the coils to fine tune it... 1 1/4" (they will have 1 3/8" holes which is what you need) washers fit under the coil seat and there's room for about an inch of washers.
 
Thank you everyone!! I am glad to be part of the group and can't wait to get building. I am sure I will be on here with many more questions as I go. @4x4junkie I really like your '94. I've been looking at the skyjacker lifts and going back and forth between getting the 4" or the 6". I really only want to go up to 33's and have some decent clearance between them and the fenders. Not sure what route would be best. I've seen people go with the 4" and a 2-3" body lift, but I don't really like the idea of a body lift.... IDK lots of stuff to decide on.

Anyways, thank you all for the help!!!

I certainly would suggest the 6" kit for your Supercab truck. Supercab models are heavier than Regular cabs, and so the lift height will be less than claimed, or about 4.5" (Skyjacker doesn't provide different kits or different springs for different body style trucks, so there will always be variation in actual lift heights).
Both the 4" and 6" kits use the same axle brackets, so in this instance there would be no issue with mounting the front axle in the 4" lift (upper) hole position. If you get the 6" rear leaf springs, you can also omit the factory lift block, which should then match up well with the front.
(mine has the weight of a winch and dual batteries, and similarly I got about 4.5" from my Skyjacker 6" as well)

2" body lifts generally don't present problems (I've had a 2" on my '90 for over 16 years now). At 3", you start needing things like shifter & steering extensions, and possibly needing to extend/replace body ground straps.
 
I certainly would suggest the 6" kit for your Supercab truck. Supercab models are heavier than Regular cabs, and so the lift height will be less than claimed, or about 4.5" (Skyjacker doesn't provide different kits or different springs for different body style trucks, so there will always be variation in actual lift heights).
Both the 4" and 6" kits use the same axle brackets, so in this instance there would be no issue with mounting the front axle in the 4" lift (upper) hole position. If you get the 6" rear leaf springs, you can also omit the factory lift block, which should then match up well with the front.
(mine has the weight of a winch and dual batteries, and similarly I got about 4.5" from my Skyjacker 6" as well)

2" body lifts generally don't present problems (I've had a 2" on my '90 for over 16 years now). At 3", you start needing things like shifter & steering extensions, and possibly needing to extend/replace body ground straps.

Thank you for the info. That is good to know about the actual lift height being slightly lower with the super cab. I also plan on building some steel bumpers for it and getting a winch so that will add to the weight as well. You wouldn't happen to have any experience with the James Duff Lifts would you? https://dufftuff.com/product/1983-97-4wd-ranger-xcab-5-6-stage-3-suspension/
The link that I put in is for their 5-6 inch lift. This seems like the most comprehensive lift kit out there as far as my limited knowledge goes. It is Spendy$$$$ though. Would you recommend one company over another or any to steer clear of?? I have read good things on here about skyjacker, and not such great things about rough country... something about the drop brackets making contact with other parts when flexed??
 
Yeah stay far away from Rough Country.

I replied to your other thread with more detail... James Duff makes a great kit also (I helped a friend put one on his Explorer). They include things like braided brake hoses, so is why the kit costs more $$$ up front (SJ has hoses too, but they are a separate purchase). But unless you think you're going to be adding performance extras such as Bronco springs, coilover shocks, etc., the Skyjacker kit IMO is the better choice for a daily driven rig because it has standard bushings on it's extended radius arms (the metal rod ends JD uses can wear faster if used in a muddy and/or salty environment, and they offer no noise isolation).
 
Unsolicited information. I bought a 4" lift kit from Suspension Connection that has perfomed well over the past 3.5 years, and its a soft ride Suspension, which makes it a comfortable ride on or off road. I would suggest that you add the extended radius arms they sell, they're not that expensive and are easy to install. One of the benefits, you gain a little more center clearance because the factory radius arm cross member is removed. I run 33x12.5x15 mud tires on my truck with no clearance issues other than the Bent D/S TTB, courtesy of the 160lb Buck I hit at over 60mph. In case you're wondering, I drive a 97 xlt standard cab, 4.0 5spd. standard 4x4. Ultimately, you are the best person to decide whats best for you, its all a crapshoot anyway. Everyone has their own favorites, just as I do. It would be nice if you were able to ride in trucks with all the different Suspension kits, so you would know how each one varies from the others. As I said in the beginning, this is just one of those "Unsolicited Advice" ramblings. I hope you can find what you're looking for.
 

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