Well THAT'S a problem 05 2.3 2Wdr

[DaveH]

did you squirt some light oil in each cylinder for a wet test?
were any of the plugs oil fouled?

by the time my 2005 had compression that low in cyl #1 it was using a quart of oil per tank of gas. the other 3 were still above 180

I didn't mention. When the engine was lying sideways oil filled the #3 hole. When I removed that plug some oil ran into the cylinder. That particular cylinder was "wet" pumping 210psi under cranking. It was kind of amazing on the slow crank, I could hear the compressed air BLOWING out of the #3 plug hole when testing the other cylinders. The #4 cylinder was also the lowest in the leak down test. I'm not concerned, I like building (er assembling) engines. The 1mz Fe Toyota engine I assembled for my daughter's 95 Avalon lasted 5 years before she sold it. Still running strong when we sold it. That engine was waaay over engineered. 6 bolt mains, 4 vertical and 2 horizontal. It had 245K on it and the crank and cams were still in great shape. Just did a soft rebuild on that one, rings, bearings valve guides and replaced a couple of bucket shims.

 

[pjtoledo]

ok, on to the rest of the teardown.
it would be a good idea to check and record the valve lashes before you remove the cams.
lash is adjusted by replacing the whole bucket, there are no shims.

the top cover gaskets had a tendency to leak oil into plug wells. I always had to remove oil before doing plugs.

 

[DaveH]

That is good to know. So I gather, once the lash is recorded the new buckets can be exchanged for the correct spec.

 

[Josh B]

Tell me about that chain in your photo. Is that one like they sell at the farm and ranch supply?
Is that bolt just a 3 point hardness?

 

[DaveH]

Tell me about that chain in your photo. Is that one like they sell at the farm and ranch supply?
Is that bolt just a 3 point hardness?

I bought the chain at Home depot. I went overkill on strength. I used the size bolt that fit the small hole in the front bracket. Tested it for strength and it held fine. Double washer. This engine can't be over 400 or 500 lbs.

 

[DaveH]

CARNAGE:
Today I got to tearing down the blown engine. Looks like I have a 500 lb. paperweight. A FEW PICS are attached. I'm unable to get that front chain cover off. Took every bolt I could find out 8mm, 10mm, 13 mm. Does that central bearing the fan clutch come with the cover. There are no bolts behind the holes. I've never seen buckets dropped like this. Broken valves?? Until I get that cover off I can't pull the head.

 

[pjtoledo]

the pulley is part of the cover, has no part in removing the cover.

 

[pjtoledo]

the cover doesn't use a gasket, sealant is probably holding it on.

 

[pjtoledo]

memory issue, is there a bolt hiding behind the pulley? the pulley does stay on.


checked manual. definitely a bolt behind the pulley at about 4 o clock.

 

[DaveH]

memory issue, is there a bolt hiding behind the pulley? the pulley does stay on.

I think the pulley is bolted from the inside to the cover. I've been over this cover 3x and pulled 15 or 17 bolts plus a small star plug. I don't want to break that cover but MAN it's on hard. I actually made a tool to remove that pesky clutch from the pulley. Nice to have a Mig welder handy. #1 Rod let go causing the massive damage. I've never seen buckets like this fall. Dropped valves? I hope I can salvage the head. But not sure. Crank, Rods, block are toast.

 

[pjtoledo]

21 bolts total, that star plug does not come out. 3 are in the center of the cover.

the pulley is pressed on to the shaft. I did a pic tutorial on removing it and the shaft a while back.

 

[pjtoledo]

the pulley shaft is pressed into the cover.

2.3L ('02-'11) - removing belt pulley & bearing from timing cover | The Ranger Station

 

[DaveH]

memory issue, is there a bolt hiding behind the pulley? the pulley does stay on.


checked manual. definitely a bolt behind the pulley at about 4 o clock.

Pitoledo, which manual do you have? Haynes is woefully inadequate.

 

[DaveH]

Well finished tearing down the broken engine. Just wanted to see how these Duratec engines are assembled. Took a lot of force to do this bad boy. Wow. Nothing from the Head on down is usable. I did get a lot of good surface stuff off of it. Alternator, water pump, Thermostat, Power steering and other smaller items that had been replaced within 5 months of the engine nuking. Luckily the replacement engine is looking much better inside. Yep, the rod end sheared and poked through the engine block.

 

[pjtoledo]

Pitoledo, which manual do you have? Haynes is woefully inadequate.

I have the actual Ford service manual, printed by Helm.