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welding spider gears


It will wear them out faster than an open or limited slip type differential would as it will not let the tires spin and different speeds to compensate for cornering
 
Yep, they will wear quicker for sure. Some say they find it's not as quick as they expected though. I wouldn't do it on anything that sees any more street driving than just to get to the trail however.
 
push the front end? i do have a spare axle from my last truck of the same year and motor, would it be a better idea to just weld that one up and switch axles when i get to the orv park?
 
if thats what you want to do , i would get a lock-right. all you do is take out the spider gears and put in the lock-right, they are only $329 at the most.
 
Never had any steering problems with my welded rear, and the front end never got "pushed".

Yes, the tires will wear quicker, but not too quickly if you keep them inflated evenly and rotate them from time to time.
 
It will also cause you to break rear axels if you get a little heavy footed on pavement. For daily driving don't do it. On the trail it's just fine.

If you're going weld them, make sure you have someone who knows what their doing with a welder. If the welds let go the entire re-end will explode.
 
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idk my buddy had a hell of a time in his yota

Of course It was a Yota!

I've heard of welded rears giving you under steer but, I've never experienced it. I've had two Rangers with welded rears, I've driven several drag cars with spools. I've also welded rears for several other peoples vehicles. I'm a huge fan of over steer so I think I would notice under steer if I experienced it.
 
It makes your rig drive like a quad. You gas it in turns to break the inside tire loose so it will turn easier.
 
That's a lot of work to swap in axles to go wheeling... Nut up and pay the $300 for a lock-right, no extra tire wear, drives fairly normal, don't have to swap axles and it will lock!
 
^^ Yeah, buy the actual locking carrier assembly; any street driving will smoke tires pretty damn quick. It's not hard to see why; think of it this way: when making a right turn against a curb, the inside tire (thats inches from the curb) goes less than 1/2-1/3 the distance of the outside tire (compare circular geometry and circumferences if you doubt it). Thus, for every turn the inside tire makes, the outside will make roughly triple the rotation. It shreds tires.

Toyota or not, the concept is the same. It's hell on alot more than just tires. The "back"load against the axleshafts and driveshaft is also immense. Dirt it's not a big deal, but pavement it will be hell.

As for whether it will push or not, it's simple axle/differential theory that it will. The inside tire can no longer slip; no doubt it will push to some extent.

Inside turning circumference = 2 * pi * radius.
Outside circumference = 2 * pi * (above radius + 5') [typical track width is about 58" or so]
Do the algebra out and youll see that the outside tire turns about 10pi more per entire turning circle than the inside. So on a 90deg. curb turn, the outside turns an extra 8' over the inside.
 
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^^
Inside turning circumference = 2 * pi * radius.
Outside circumference = 2 * pi * (above radius + 5') [typical track width is about 58" or so]
Do the algebra out and youll see that the outside tire turns about 10pi more per entire turning circle than the inside. So on a 90deg. curb turn, the outside turns an extra 8' over the inside.

One question what does that mean u lose me after 2
 

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