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Warming engine up, does it matter if it's winter?


Chapap

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Jul 31, 2021
Messages
1,068
City
NW Florida
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Total Drop
1.5” till I get these springs replaced
Tire Size
225-70-R14
Designed water temp is close to 200. cylinder/valve/exhaust temp is 4 digits. Does the engine notice a difference between ambient temps being 90 vs 10? I take it easy on all my vehicles when they just start up, but if I'm bundled up and shivering, I tend to really take it easy. Am I just "humanizing" my engine or are clearances significantly more out of spec when it gets cold out?
 
With the cold, clearances do open up since everything shrinks but I don’t know if or how much of a difference it makes.

Going easy on the engine until it and the oil has a chance to warm up isn’t a bad idea though.

I have a block heater and an oil pan heater to speed that process up. Starting isn’t an issue if they aren’t plugged in but the faster I can get heat going into the cabin, the better.
 
Well, I've owned my 98 3.0 V-6 Ranger since January 2000. I used to warm it up until the temperature needle just hit the bottom mark on the gauge, Then take it easy until it hit operating temperature. Lately, since I've felt it's on borrowed time now, I don't anymore. And the truck doesn't seem to care one iota. I warm it up about one minute, then take it easy utill it hits operating temperature. It is sitting at 184,760 miles right now. Not burning any oil, and the one leak it had seems to have fixed itself. Used to leave a silver dollar sized drop everywhere. Sold my 07 Mustang recently, so the Ranger has it's spot in the garage again. Not leaving any spots, and the oil is at the top of the hash marks. Things That Make You Go Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Earlier last year I was having a lot of difficulties with it. Finally figured out it was the EVAP hoses under the tail. Deleted it all, no more problems. EGR is stuck in the open position ( spring broke?), so I made a solid metal gasket for it, so it no longer works. Catalytic converter isn't converting any more (can tell by the smell). And yet, it is running better than it has in years. Starts up on the first turn of the key, getting over 20 mpg (driving it like I stole it). So, decided to sell the Stang, since it was bought in case the Ranger died. I guess it's going to soldier on for a few years more.
 
Pretty sure Ron says things are good to go once the motor comes off high idle, so thats usually where I let it warm up to in the winter.. Unless I want to get into a warm cab of course.

I don't care so much when it's warm out.. but I still give it a few seconds to circulate before driving off.
 
Above 20 degrees or so, I just get in and drive. Anything below that I try to let it warm up for a minute or two. Those brutally cold below zero windy days are the worst, the power steering starts howling and the trans shifter is really stiff... kinda clunks into gear for a mile or two.
 
My three motorcycles, I spoil them. I start them up before donning all my riding gear. So, by the time I am ready to ride, they are usually at operating temperature. And Away We Go!!
2004_kill_bill_vol_2_018_zpskssmg5ty.jpg
 
My three motorcycles, I spoil them. I start them up before donning all my riding gear. So, by the time I am ready to ride, they are usually at operating temperature. And Away We Go!! View attachment 87367
Wow. You look a lot different than I expected in your selfie.
 
I live in SC. So we don't get much extreme cold. But I have lived much further north in the past. Generally, if oil pressure is good, I'm ready to roll. Many times in cold weather, you end up needing time to scrape ice and snow from the windows. So, letting it idle and warm up during that process should be more than enough warm up time. I have experienced a few times in the past when the manual transmission was still difficult to shift due to cold oil. But I don't think extra idling time in the driveway helps that. You have to get it in some gear and start driving to allow friction and mechanical movement to warm up a manual transmission.
 
Whether cold out or hot out, it is wise not to hammer on it until the oil temperature is up to operating range. That takes longer than it takes to get the coolant temp up. So, yes it is smart to take it easy the first 10-15 minutes after you have started it (a little longer when its cold out.) But letting it idle past the time it takes to scrape the frost/snow off the windows is wasting gas.
 
I'm going to guess that being cold enough for the trans to behave strangely is evidence that the fluids are at a different stage of cold. Diesels have trouble in the cold, but that's a compression ignition/ fuel vaporization thing. I'm just wondering if it's worse to stomp on it when the engine is really cold vs just cold. an extra 100-150 deg lower is a pretty big deal for the coolant tmep, but not really for in-cylinder temp.
 
It matters for oil flow. A sluggishly shifting transmission is certainly and indicator but not the complete answer since they warm up at different rates.

At a certain point, the oil pump is struggling to deliver oil to the top end of the engine. While oil might be getting to the crank shaft the cam shaft, lifters, and what not might be poorly lubed or oil starved.

Oil weight is going to play into that as well 0W-20 is going to flow better than 10W-40. So the temperature where it’s safe to give the engine a goose is going to vary.

I wouldn’t even consider it if the water temp gauge hasn’t started moving yet.
 
I park my cars in a garage so they're a little warmer than being outside and drive 1/2 at low speed before I get to pavement so fluids are circulating but I still don't stand on the throttle until it's up to temp. A carbureted car could be left on the second step of fast idle to warm up but electronically controlled stuff drops to a slow idle pretty quickly so I'd only let one sit and run for a few minutes. The never-warm-up-your-car guys have never tried to pour motor oil in subzero temps.
 
It matters for oil flow. A sluggishly shifting transmission is certainly and indicator but not the complete answer since they warm up at different rates.

At a certain point, the oil pump is struggling to deliver oil to the top end of the engine. While oil might be getting to the crank shaft the cam shaft, lifters, and what not might be poorly lubed or oil starved.

Oil weight is going to play into that as well 0W-20 is going to flow better than 10W-40. So the temperature where it’s safe to give the engine a goose is going to vary.

I wouldn’t even consider it if the water temp gauge hasn’t started moving yet.


Serious question: What is "it"?



CMOS
 
Well, I've run nothing but 20W-50 in my 98 for 23 years and 174,750 miles. It h ad 10,000 miles on it when I bought it, have no idea what kind of oil was in it. 20w-50 has never been a problem for me, even when it gets down close to zero here. Which is rare as a hens tooth. One time so far this winter, -3. Started and ran just fine. But yes, kept in a garage. When it's super cold, and I first start it, it's kinda noisy. Only last about two seconds, then quiets down proper.
 

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