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want to spin tires easier in 1st no clutch dump


lightly moded old fox auto i beat one the other day but it wasn't in the best of shape. I know quite well that an 5.0 will kick my ass but really it all comes down to the driver. and yes i just started auto school, and I have worked on cars for a few years know really I need
experience
 
Hate to tell you, but the intake, fancy plugs and ignition netted you sweet eff all other than lightening your wallet.....

You want to feel more power, deeper gears will do the trick...
 
i agree with you but when i mean slightly modded nothing big or huge like a performance muffler or cold air intake but again it is really all about the driver, and how the power is put down. This thread has gone way off topic, and i was just curious about something, and some people don't like my choices of mods. Which is sad because it is my truck, and money so sorry if this has insulted anybody
 
@ gogaggansgo: I for one have no idea who you're talking to. There is a quote button at the bottom left corner of the post you're referring to to make this easier to follow.


Also periods aren't only for girls (they're nice in sentences too).
 
the 8.8 really needs 4.10 but I don't know where to get a new speedo gear for the change
 
How about the dealership?
 
I for one have no idea who you're talking to. There is a quote button at the bottom left corner of the post you're referring to to make this easier to follow.


Also periods aren't only for girls (they're nice in sentences too).

funny and yes writing isn't my strong point working on car is. Like I said I am in school for two things ASE and experience.
 
I'll hold my tongue and try to help constructively because you've been a good sport through newbie whipstick bootcamp. lol

You're going to go to automotive school and most likely learn general "concepts" applied throughout all the automotive industry. Repairing/diagnosing troubles will be your prime concern. How to increase the output of your engine (and learning how to pick drivetrain components to enhance the power characteristics) comes with lots of research and field experience.

All together, the parts you listed will cost an estimated $1000 (without the mustang rear end, which I'll cover seperately). All together, those parts will net you no more than 20hp IF you have experience porting heads and are able to flow test the ports to know what you did changed for the better. If you go in there and just open the runners up and work the roof (a lot of rookies do this because its easy to get to) I will say you'll only gain 10hp with the other supporting mods and LOOSE low end torque (which will make it harder to spin the tires). Be warned, I would expect 50-60 hours to port a set of 2 valve V6 heads.

Anyway, experience is just that. But you can make the most of your "experience" hours by researching first. There are a lot of good books you can purchase and read through. The internet is full of endless information.

Oh, and the mustang rear end. May I ask why you want to tackle this? You're rear end already is an 8.8 28 spline rear end. It beats having a mismatched hub width between the front and rear tires and you don't need to weld on spring perches and shock mounts. 100% traction out of a limited slip is innacurate. A spool or locker will give you 100% traction. The ford trac-lok will give added traction but can still slip one tire.
 
funny and yes writing isn't my strong point working on car is. Like I said I am in school for two things ASE and experience.

Just helping a Ranger owner out :icon_thumby:

This is a finicky group of sophisticated rednecks, so expect to catch hell at first. We'll be glad to help but we're damn honest with our advice, so don't take it personally. Once you're on the defensive GGF will throw cold hard facts at you until you bleed and Doorgunner will ask when the last time you spoke with hay-zoos was
 
I thought the old rule of thumb was 10 years.

What rule of thumb? Just because it is more than 10 years old does not make parts obsolete for it.
 
I'll hold my tongue and try to help constructively because you've been a good sport through newbie whipstick bootcamp. lol

You're going to go to automotive school and most likely learn general "concepts" applied throughout all the automotive industry. Repairing/diagnosing troubles will be your prime concern. How to increase the output of your engine (and learning how to pick drivetrain components to enhance the power characteristics) comes with lots of research and field experience.

All together, the parts you listed will cost an estimated $1000 (without the mustang rear end, which I'll cover seperately). All together, those parts will net you no more than 20hp IF you have experience porting heads and are able to flow test the ports to know what you did changed for the better. If you go in there and just open the runners up and work the roof (a lot of rookies do this because its easy to get to) I will say you'll only gain 10hp with the other supporting mods and LOOSE low end torque (which will make it harder to spin the tires). Be warned, I would expect 50-60 hours to port a set of 2 valve V6 heads.

Anyway, experience is just that. But you can make the most of your "experience" hours by researching first. There are a lot of good books you can purchase and read through. The internet is full of endless information.

Oh, and the mustang rear end. May I ask why you want to tackle this? You're rear end already is an 8.8 28 spline rear end. It beats having a mismatched hub width between the front and rear tires and you don't need to weld on spring perches and shock mounts. 100% traction out of a limited slip is innacurate. A spool or locker will give you 100% traction. The ford trac-lok will give added traction but can still slip one tire.

all the porting work was done by a master tech, and yes you are right about the diff, but it does make burnouts a little harder, and when the heads where ported we found that the heads we very high flow which puzzled us. But the intake was really restrictive. Remember my dad order this truck special due to the fact he was at Chicago Stamping Plant, and the Plant manger walk the truck down the line, and my father was told that the engine was special to this truck. Don't know why but I do have the original window sticker, and there are some odd items listed hope this helps. Another note I did contact a dyno tuner, and he said with the BBK throttle body i was looking at around 35Hp to 40Hp over stock and I do have that email so if you doubt me. I can so you
 
What rule of thumb? Just because it is more than 10 years old does not make parts obsolete for it.

remember that dealerships tend not to have part to vehicles older than 10 years. I not saying they don't have them, but parts like that are harder to find
 
Just helping a Ranger owner out :icon_thumby:

This is a finicky group of sophisticated rednecks, so expect to catch hell at first. We'll be glad to help but we're damn honest with our advice, so don't take it personally. Once you're on the defensive GGF will throw cold hard facts at you until you bleed and Doorgunner will ask when the last time you spoke with hay-zoos was

i know thanksfor the help, but this thread has done nothing but criticize me, and I made the thread now that sucks
 

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