Twister 85 B2 Build

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Little know fact...
Use Pam cooking spray to cut and grind aluminum. Works way way way better than WD40 or any other cutting lube.

Cuts like butter, speaking of which, if you get butter flavored spray, your whole garage/ shop will smell like fresh buttered popcorn.

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[Twister]

Little know fact...
Use Pam cooking spray to cut and grind aluminum. Works way way way better than WD40 or any other cutting lube.

Cuts like butter, speaking of which, if you get butter flavored spray, your whole garage/ shop will smell like fresh buttered popcorn.

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Cool, will keep that in mind if I need to take more off.

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[Twister]

I tried to attach the t-case to the tranny to see if i had trimmed enough for the shift rail, i seem to have gotten plenty for the shift rail, but the input bearing retainer hits a inside lip of the tail housing on the tranny. So i am going to have to grind a little on the inside of the rear of the tranny to get it to bolt together all the way.

 

[dangerranger83]

I wonder of there is a spacer available for such a thing.

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[Twister]

I wonder of there is a spacer available for such a thing.

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I couldn't find anything online, it wouldn't have to be very thick. The small lip inside the transmission goes in about 7/16" and the bearing retainer stick out from the tcase about 5/8". So about 1/4" to 5/16" I think would make it clear it.

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[Ford005]

I've been following along with your build from the start and I finally have some info for you:

I just experienced this attaching a '77 NP205 to a '84 C6 auto. On the C6, the inside lip is larger and the cap-head bolts for the bearing retainer hit in addition to the recess not being deep enough for the retainer itself. I ended up replacing the bolts with button head bolts, counter-sinking them into the retainer and grinding the outer lip of the retainer down to fit in the recess correctly.

To determine how much material to remove, I used a sharpie to blacken the first 3/8" of the retainer, inserted it into the adapter backwards and scribed around it. I then used a 2" sanding disc on an angle die grinder to remove the excess aluminum.

What's weird about this, is I've put a 205 behind two different 4R70W explorer transmissions and didn't have any fitment issues.

Hope that helps!

 

[dangerranger83]

That's what I've been questioning is everything I have read, the xfer car just build right up and you are good. But here, there is issues.

Now will using the factory adaptor spacer that comes with the xfer case be able to bolt to the trans and be good?

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[Twister]

That's what I've been questioning is everything I have read, the xfer car just build right up and you are good. But here, there is issues.

Now will using the factory adaptor spacer that comes with the xfer case be able to bolt to the trans and be good?

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From researching it, the np205 seems to have a problem with the m5od, I have found several threads on other forums about troubles bolting them together, I slightly knew it was an issue but don't know to what extent.

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[Twister]

Made 3 of these plates to go between the transmission and the t case out of a flat piece of aluminum that is about 1/8" thick.

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[Twister]

Not car progress I got my welder set up and ran a few beads.

Every thing left of the line with a T next to it is mine, to the right was by brothers. It doesn't seem like I did too bad for the first try.

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[dangerranger83]

Being able to see what you are doing its a big thing.

I can't describe how to weld, it was one of those things I did a lot of watching and researching on and caught onto once I started welding.

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[Twister]

Well I am about to throw the engine back in, and hopefully for good. Do I need to have the engine perfectly level? I put some washers on the drover side to try and level itout, but ad 85 pointed out, if the truck itself isn't level then the the engine itself might be thrown off. So hoe important is the engine being exactly level? I'm hoping to have this done by the end of October, bit we all know how that Goes.

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[dangerranger83]

You want the top of the intake level since the top surface , what the carb sits on, isn't level and use that to help set the angle of your setup.

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[Twister]

You want the top of the intake level since the top surface , what the carb sits on, isn't level and use that to help set the angle of your setup.

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So I want to have the intake level. That's what I gathered from your post, autocorrect must of had fun with you post.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

You can get a dial angle finder from home depot for like $10-15, stick it on the radiator support and then get your engine to sit as close as you can to that.

It isn't critical it is exactly dead nuts, your truck will very rarely ever be sitting perfectly level.