Twister 85 B2 Build

[Twister]

Start high on the slots and if the engine has to go down more then do that. But since you have a body lift, having the engine higer up might not hurt anything. My engine has lowered itself over time by just more then an inch so far but I think things have settled into place after ten months.

My thing with not having a body lift was getting the transmission up high enough to tuck the ttansfercase advice the bottom of the frame rail. And also when test fitting your engine, be sure to know where your output shaft is pointing at to your rear end. I had to push my trans over when I went to put my transfercase on because it was to far over to the driver side for it to fit between the rails. Good thing I had enough of an opening on the motor mount slots to be able to rotate things.

Also what are your plans for a trans xmember? I have the style that mounts in between the frame rails and even modding it to at least work with my setup, it wasn't able to clear for a front shaft. If you have the outside mounting xmember, then it should be easier to design up something. Right now I'm combine both my internal mounting and got an external one to make an xmember but also my design allows for my truck to not be out of service at anytime during the process.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

As of right now, i am going to use my old cross member (its one that bolts inside the cross member), i just opened the holes a bit more so the full size transmission mount would fit it. I plan on running that to get the truck up and running and driving then figure out the front drive shaft if it wont clear, the bw4406 has a fix front yolk so i dont need the drive shaft hooked up right away and with it being summer it is really not needed.

 

[dangerranger83]

Mine has a fix front output shaft too and I thought the same thing when I did my swap.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Alright, school is over. Time to jump aybthis thing. What size drill bit do I need for the motor mount holes? I thought it was 1/2" but I was wrong.!!

Mustang mounts take a 9/16" nut, go a tad bigger for clearance.

 

[Twister]

Got a drill bit, remarked the engine crossmember and ectched where I need to drill it. But on the driver side looks like I will run into the hole for the v6 mount.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[dangerranger83]

I'll see if I can get you a picture of whey exactly my slots are relative to my old v6 mounting holes..and then just go back further fun then since my engine sits forward more then normal.

Also did you have to swap the sides that the mustang mounts go to on the engine i.e. right mint on the left side and vise versa?

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Twister]

I'll see if I can get you a picture of whey exactly my slots are relative to my old v6 mounting holes..and then just go back further fun then since my engine sits forward more then normal.

Also did you have to swap the sides that the mustang mounts go to on the engine i.e. right mint on the left side and vise versa?

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Yes I swapped then around, i just assumed I should since everyone says to.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Twister]

I looked through your thread and it looks like you used a different style of motor mount.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[dangerranger83]

I'm using the mustang mounts.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If you haven't yet, either have somebody weld a bung in your oil pan opposite of the existing drain hole or do it yourself.

My biggest nagging regret of my swap...

Does the 4406 still look like a go or have you done any test fitting with that yet? It would be sweet so the linkage would directly swap over from a F-150.

You need to get going on this so both of us are not bumbling through the M5OD adaptation at the same time

 

[Twister]

If you haven't yet, either have somebody weld a bung in your oil pan opposite of the existing drain hole or do it yourself.

My biggest nagging regret of my swap...

OK thanks. You think where I have my motor mounts to be set on the crossmember is going to be a problem with where the v6 mount holes are?

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Twister]

If you haven't yet, either have somebody weld a bung in your oil pan opposite of the existing drain hole or do it yourself.

My biggest nagging regret of my swap...

Does the 4406 still look like a go or have you done any test fitting with that yet? It would be sweet so the linkage would directly swap over from a F-150.

You need to get going on this so both of us are not bumbling through the M5OD adaptation at the same time

Yeah I know tell me about it. My other truck just gets worse by the day. I'm just super I guess nervous about drilling and slotting the engine crossmember. I don't wanna **** it up lol. Once I get the crossmember done I can run at it full speed.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Twister]

Hey danger, were you able to get a pic of where you slotted the crossmember? So what you guys think, should I just run with where I have it set or try and put it a bit furthur back?

Thanks in advance

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[dangerranger83]

Sorry been busy the last few days but here they are from under. Add you can see, I used the mounting holes with the slots and my engine sits forward more so I would go back. This is also having the mounts switched sides so that the bolts going through the cross member are as far towards the front of the engine to push it back as far as possible.

Here's the driver side

And passenger..yes I need to get a larger washer for it still.

But do remember my truck originally had a 4 cylinder in it from the factory, I had to mod one side of my cross member to fit a v6 mount but it was a small holes and want the hole for the mount bolt. I don't remember what that other large hole was for on the passenger side in the picture.

Make your slots shallow. My drain plug is now past the cross member ttb mount, my engine has finally settled all the way.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Twister]

Sorry been busy the last few days but here they are from under. Add you can see, I used the mounting holes with the slots and my engine sits forward more so I would go back. This is also having the mounts switched sides so that the bolts going through the cross member are as far towards the front of the engine to push it back as far as possible.

Here's the driver side

And passenger..yes I need to get a larger washer for it still.

But do remember my truck originally had a 4 cylinder in it from the factory, I had to mod one side of my cross member to fit a v6 mount but it was a small holes and want the hole for the mount bolt. I don't remember what that other large hole was for on the passenger side in the picture.

Make your slots shallow. My drain plug is now past the cross member ttb mount, my engine has finally settled all the way.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks for the pics. It doesn't look like the slots you made were very big. Maybe on like 2 in.

I got the engine put back in to see if I can get the spots any furthur back. It looks like I will prolly be able to.

Also I cut just a tad where the transmission comes up and the shift tower fits much better now.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2

 

[dangerranger83]

I so want your valve covers. My chrome ones don't match anything under my hood.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2