Twister 85 B2 Build

[Twister]

Ok so i measured from the middle of the output to the edge, its about 18", if i cut the loop off it is about 17". I am gonna try and use it, and if it doesn't work out find an np208 down the road.

 

[Twister]

Not much to add, bought a power steering bracket from 85_Ranger4x4, also finally got a place to work on my truck. After 5 days of hard work, i cleaned my garage

Before:

After:

 

[dangerranger83]

Should have bought his whole FEAD if you were able to, just to keep stuff simple.

So you had a place to work, you just didn't have it cleaned out.

I just thought I'd this but how do you hook up the clutch line from the master to your slave from the older matters to the newer...are they the same or am I missing something?

Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk 2

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Good deal on getting the garage cleaned out, that makes everything easier.

Should have bought his whole FEAD if you were able to, just to keep stuff simple.

They only changed the one part, shouldn't make a difference. If by some freak chance it does, I still have the other bracket and I don't see it sprouting legs and running away.

 

[Twister]

Should have bought his whole FEAD if you were able to, just to keep stuff simple.

So you had a place to work, you just didn't have it cleaned out.

I just thought I'd this but how do you hook up the clutch line from the master to your slave from the older matters to the newer...are they the same or am I missing something?

Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk 2

I shouldn't need the whole thing, just needed the power steering bracket since all i am running it power steering and the alternator.

Yeah i had the place, but it took a 16 cubic yard dumpter to use it, now just to get my brother to ditch his 87 E150

I don't know about the clutch line, i haven't looked into it much, but i guess i should lol

 

[Twister]

Good deal on getting the garage cleaned out, that makes everything easier.

It was a good feeling finishing it, it has sat like that for atleast 13 years, it took me about 30-35 hours over the last 5 days to get it done.

I haven't done much research on the clutch line, i have a brand new master cylinder from an 84 B2, will i be able to use that with the slave cylinder? Also, what car do i want a clutch line from?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I haven't done much research on the clutch line, i have a brand new master cylinder from an 84 B2, will i be able to use that with the slave cylinder? Also, what car do i want a clutch line from?

I have found the earlier M5OD will use a Ranger line, I haven't gotten to checking on the newer one yet.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132434

Edit: I just remembered I had this saved.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126221&highlight=m5od&page=3

 

[Twister]

Well got the truck in the garage 2 days ago. Since then i got the drive shafts pulled, parts off the engine and loosened the engine mounts, which were so loose, it barely took anything to get the nuts off .

 

[Twister]

Got the transfer case pulled, those top two are a pia. Should I drain the transmission if pulling if along with the engine?

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[lil_Blue_Ford]

Pulling an engine and trans together can be a real PIA. I did the reverse, put in an engine and trans together. If the core support is still in, it can be a real trick. We didn't drain the trans, but it drained itself when we tilted it (read stood it on end because that was the only way to get enough clearance). Good luck with it! (FYI, if you do want to separate the engine and trans, pull the shifter plate out of the floor, it'll give you room to get in at some of the bellhousing bolts - you'll have to pull up the carpet or flooring to get to it, but IIRC it's a half a dozen bolts and a big chunk of the floor comes up).

 

[dangerranger83]

When I did my swp, I pulled the trans and transfercase together, since I had done it a few times in the previuos monnths before the swap. Having my truck lifted made it bit of a pian at first but after using the engine hoist to help lower it to the ground through the shifter hole in the floor, it made for cake.

But when I went to instal my 302, I did the engine and trans minus the transfercase, since the transfercase wouldnt fit throught the tunnel.

I do agree, with the core support, it will make for a bit of hell to instal both the engine and trans together. But knowing that I was going to have to cut the core out a bit for the rad, I just decided to cut it out where the rad mounted. It was one of those "Im designing everything as I go" kind of things once I got to the rad.

More pics of mine start on page 66 of my build thread

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Good luck with it! (FYI, if you do want to separate the engine and trans, pull the shifter plate out of the floor, it'll give you room to get in at some of the bellhousing bolts - you'll have to pull up the carpet or flooring to get to it, but IIRC it's a half a dozen bolts and a big chunk of the floor comes up).

IIRC you have to do that on a truck without a bodylift to get the t-case off too.

I do agree, with the core support, it will make for a bit of hell to instal both the engine and trans together. But knowing that I was going to have to cut the core out a bit for the rad, I just decided to cut it out where the rad mounted. It was one of those "Im designing everything as I go" kind of things once I got to the rad.

I went both ways with mine with the core support in place, as long as you have a good hoist with some ups it isn't that bad. The A4LD/2.8 came out a little tougher than the C5/302 went in because of the A4LD vs C5 length difference but it wasn't bad by any means. It is a little hard on the nerves thinking what a falling engine/trans would do to the core support though...

I have pics in my build thread of the removal, I think I got too caught up in the moment of the install to take a pic.

 

[Twister]

When I did my swp, I pulled the trans and transfercase together, since I had done it a few times in the previuos monnths before the swap. Having my truck lifted made it bit of a pian at first but after using the engine hoist to help lower it to the ground through the shifter hole in the floor, it made for cake.

But when I went to instal my 302, I did the engine and trans minus the transfercase, since the transfercase wouldnt fit throught the tunnel.

I do agree, with the core support, it will make for a bit of hell to instal both the engine and trans together. But knowing that I was going to have to cut the core out a bit for the rad, I just decided to cut it out where the rad mounted. It was one of those "Im designing everything as I go" kind of things once I got to the rad.

More pics of mine start on page 66 of my build thread

I might just pull the tranny prior to pulling the engine, its on 6 bolts and it would make pulling the engine a hell of a lot easier.

I am a little worried about putting the transmission and engine in at the same time, they m5od-r2 is pretty big, I might have to throw a body lift on the truck before I try shoving the tranny and engine in.

Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk 2

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

IIRC you have to do that on a truck without a bodylift to get the t-case off too.



I went both ways with mine with the core support in place, as long as you have a good hoist with some ups it isn't that bad. The A4LD/2.8 came out a little tougher than the C5/302 went in because of the A4LD vs C5 length difference but it wasn't bad by any means. It is a little hard on the nerves thinking what a falling engine/trans would do to the core support though...

I have pics in my build thread of the removal, I think I got too caught up in the moment of the install to take a pic.

I never had to have a body lift or pull up the floor to do a T-case, but the T-case is deff easier to do with a body lift.

I did a 302 with an auto trans in a 2000 Ranger at once. Used a skid steer instead of an engine hoist. Tried using an engine leveler to tilt it but it didn't have enough tilt to it. The 4.0 and trans came out separate when we removed it though since the original plan was to just drop another 4.0 in.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I am a little worried about putting the transmission and engine in at the same time, they m5od-r2 is pretty big, I might have to throw a body lift on the truck before I try shoving the tranny and engine in.

If you have ever had an inkling to put a BL on it, it makes everything fit nicer and all around easier to work on.

I never had to have a body lift or pull up the floor to do a T-case, but the T-case is deff easier to do with a body lift.

I did a 302 with an auto trans in a 2000 Ranger at once. Used a skid steer instead of an engine hoist. Tried using an engine leveler to tilt it but it didn't have enough tilt to it. The 4.0 and trans came out separate when we removed it though since the original plan was to just drop another 4.0 in.

I don't remember what the deal was but I do remember it was a PITA and spurred me to say screw it and yank the interior and shifter plate. That was when I was in high school in 2002.

The second time (when I did the swap) was post BL and it was cake.

With my little C5 and the hoist on the front hole of the lifting plate (carb intake) the trans sat really low in the rear going down the hole.

I thought about using a loader, you just don't have the control that you do with a hoist though.