Twister 85 B2 Build

[Twister]

The 94-95 Mustang is close to the same length as the Explorer, still have to change a bunch of stuff but you can keep the harmonic balancer.

I am going to get hooking up the Explorer FEAD stuff next so I can tell you first hand how that goes. One thing I really like about the Explorer setup is the alternator and PS pump bolt on and are easily removable. With the traditional pivet bolts in the Rangers shallow engine bay you start having conflicts with stuff in front of the engine (like the radiator) It is really annoying to have to to pull the radiator to change the alternator and when you are running a pusher fan like me you have to pick on the transmission coolers, efan and grille... not much of a quick roadside fix.

Of all the stuff that changed going to the Explorer setup, the power steering pressure line has me the most nervous.

You could probably make what you have work, you will have to move the radiator either way. I picked up an inch and a half of room with the Explorer pump which brought me up to two inches between the pulley and radiator... you will need more than that for a Taurus fan. I did sneak a flex fan in there.

Yeah let me know how that goes, there is usually a few 5.0 explorers at u pull it. I am not dead set on the Taurus fan, my brother has it laying around and so i gave him $20 for it.

 

[dangerranger83]

Im going to be using the Taurus fan but mine came with a painless wiring setup with all the relays and whatnot when I got it and the rad off a member off here.

As far as the specs for the painless wiring setup I have I'm not sure yet but will be looking soon at that. I will say it used to cool a super charged 5.0 with no problems.

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[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

If it helps I used the serpentine belt brackets off a full size bronco and a F-150 fan/clutch set. And I got a used Be cool rad off the classifieds on here and I still have around 2 inches of clearance.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

As far as the specs for the painless wiring setup I have I'm not sure yet but will be looking soon at that. I will say it used to cool a super charged 5.0 with no problems.

I have the one with just a temp sender that screws into the intake and a relay, it worked pretty good for me.

If it helps I used the serpentine belt brackets off a full size bronco and a F-150 fan/clutch set. And I got a used Be cool rad off the classifieds on here and I still have around 2 inches of clearance.

I assume you put the radiator under the core support too?

 

[Twister]

Id like to avoid moving the radiator under the core support, i could possibly run the fan as a pushed instead of a puller, but i thought i read running it was a puller was more effective.

I am making a trip to the junk yard tomorrow to look for a transfer case. What case do you guys recommend? I was thinking about a np208 if i could find one. Also gonna look to see if there are any older truck for manifolds.

 

[dangerranger83]

Be sure if you do get the 208 to very at least the slip yoke. Also they run the larger 1330 joints. Also don't let the slip yoke fall out or you may end up with a mess.

Personally if I could go back, I would get the np205 just because it can be dual sicked and it has fixed in and output yokes.

Also another thing I need to get and maybe you too is another speedo cable since the fullsize drive train stuff is longer.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

I was planning on using the convertable mounts, i havent looked much into making plates, the only problem with is i dont really have a way to cut them out.

You are going to have a bummer slotting the crossmember for the 'stang mounts if you don't have a torch.

Id like to avoid moving the radiator under the core support, i could possibly run the fan as a pushed instead of a puller, but i thought i read running it was a puller was more effective.

I am making a trip to the junk yard tomorrow to look for a transfer case. What case do you guys recommend? I was thinking about a np208 if i could find one. Also gonna look to see if there are any older truck for manifolds.

Pullers are more effective, I am adding a flex fan behind the radiator. The pusher works but just barely, and it is the biggest pusher I could fit.

Last weekend they had a '70 Mustang coupe at the U-Pull-It on 60th that had the older style mainfolds that hugged the block.

 

[Twister]

Be sure if you do get the 208 to very at least the slip yoke. Also they run the larger 1330 joints. Also don't let the slip yoke fall out or you may end up with a mess.

Personally if I could go back, I would get the np205 just because it can be dual sicked and it has fixed in and output yokes.

Also another thing I need to get and maybe you too is another speedo cable since the fullsize drive train stuff is longer.

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Id grap a np203 if i did much off-roading, but sadly Nebraska is a pretty boring state. There are no didicated offroad parks, and going offroad in a non-offroad zone you will get in big trouble

If the adapters weren't so expensive i would keep the stock one, but i am not paying $400-$500 just to keep it.

You are going to have a bummer slotting the crossmember for the 'stang mounts if you don't have a torch.



Pullers are more effective, I am adding a flex fan behind the radiator. The pusher works but just barely, and it is the biggest pusher I could fit.

Last weekend they had a '70 Mustang coupe at the U-Pull-It on 60th that had the older style mainfolds that hugged the block.

The kid who sold me the engine had an electric fan, i am going to look into it and see if it is any smaller and what brand it is.

Yeah no torch here, i am looking into cutting some plated to use the stock mounts. Do you know where to find a full size version of the template that listed in the tech section?
Hopefully that mustang is still there, i don't have any thing so far for the exhaust.


Got my check today, going to be ordering the oil filter relocation kit.

 

[brinker88]

I prefer the BW1356 manual. You can find them in F150s to broncos to F350 diesels and there's NO slipyoke.

 

[dangerranger83]

I thought those were only on RBVs, compact vehicles. My truck has a bw1350 now and the only difference between it and the bw1354 is the planitary gears and how many there are.

The np203 is a full time 4wd transfercase.

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[dangerranger83]

Also if you need to cut a slot for the mount holes in the cross member, find where the bolts want to be and then drill a home above and below that then take an angle grinder or cutting tool of some kind and cut from hole to hole and you should have your slot.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Yeah no torch here, i am looking into cutting some plated to use the stock mounts. Do you know where to find a full size version of the template that listed in the tech section?
Hopefully that mustang is still there, i don't have any thing so far for the exhaust.

You might check RangerSVT's build. Kind of a PITA to pull the plates out of an Explorer but they would be a more ready to go option. I wouldn't think a machine shop (or machine-tool school if you can find one in session) would ding you too hard to cut it out and drill a couple holes either.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95203&highlight=svt

I know if where there is a set of 289 manifolds if the stang is gone

I prefer the BW1354 manual. You can find them in F150s to broncos to F350 diesels and there's NO slipyoke.

BW1356?

They are huge and require frame work to fit. The BW1354 was never in a Ford fullsize.

I thought those were only on RBVs, compact vehicles. My truck has a bw1350 now and the only difference between it and the bw1354 is the planitary gears and how many there are.

The front output (slip vs fixed) and shift linkage is different too.

 

[brinker88]

85_Ranger4x4, yes, 1356

Thanks lol.

I dont know if they'll fit between the frame rails tho...They're huge!!

 

[Twister]

You might check RangerSVT's build. Kind of a PITA to pull the plates out of an Explorer but they would be a more ready to go option. I wouldn't think a machine shop (or machine-tool school if you can find one in session) would ding you too hard to cut it out and drill a couple holes either.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95203&highlight=svt

I know if where there is a set of 289 manifolds if the stang is gone

The v8 explorer plates seem like they would work, now just to find a pair or hassle with getting them out of one in a junkyard. I am sure a machine shop would cut me the plates.

Ill let you know if the mustang is gone.

 

[dangerranger83]

I would be putting a 289 under the hood if I could have found one.

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