Rumblecloud's suggestion is a good one to go with. Verify it is the pump not only by sound (sometimes it can be hard to hear if there is a lot of background noise) but by spraying starting fluid or brake cleaner into the intake. If it starts or sputters, you have spark and it's a fuel supply problem.
When checking the fuse, look at the pins as well as the center section. I had a fuse that otherwise looked perfectly fine but killed my pump. There was some brown residue on the pins. After a day of troubleshooting, I replaced the fuse and the truck started right up.
If the fuse isn't the problem, check the inertia switch behind the passenger side kick panel. Those have been known to trip for no reason from time to time.
If that checks good, try a rubber mallet on the bottom of the tank where there is a circular impression in the plastic. Sometimes jarring the pump will getting spinning. If that works, it is a temporary fix at best and the pump needs replaced.
If it doesn't, check power at the pump connector to verify there isn't a wire problem. The easiest way to access the pump is to remove the bed bolts and prop up the front of the bed securly. Dropping the tank gives only minimal access at best since you can't drop it very much with out removing the tranmission support cross member and proping up the transmission. Even then access isn't great and depending on how much fuel is in the tank, dropping and lifting the tank could be a real chore.
Be prepared to have issues with the bed bolts. Get some replacements from either a dealership, a Ford website, or a suitible replacement with the right diameter and thread pitch, by removing one for comparison, from a hardware store. I believe the bed bolts use a T55 torxs bit. My truck had two different lengths, depending on where they were in the bed. You might have to cut some or they will snap in the removal process. But pulling the bed is still going to be the better option than dropping the tank.
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