Tow dolly transport

[gstuartw]

I am considering using a tow dolly to move my 5 speed Bronco II 400 miles and need to know what needs to be done prior to avoid damage.

Thanks for your help,

Stuart

 

[scotts90ranger]

If it is manual transfer case simply put that in neutral and leave the transmission in a gear (any ol gear will do), if electric transfer case there isn't a neutral setting from factory so it's easiest to pull the rear driveline. The transfer cases have a oil pump driven off the rear output so it is safe to tow them in neutral unlike a lot of transfer cases on other stuff...

 

[Blmpkn]

If it is manual transfer case simply put that in neutral and leave the transmission in a gear (any ol gear will do), if electric transfer case there isn't a neutral setting from factory so it's easiest to pull the rear driveline. The transfer cases have a oil pump driven off the rear output so it is safe to tow them in neutral unlike a lot of transfer cases on other stuff...

Would it be a bad idea for him to back the Bronco on so he doesn't have to remove the shaft?

 

[don4331]

Would it be a bad idea for him to back the Bronco on so he doesn't have to remove the shaft?

Yes, You'd be counting on the pin in steering column to keep the wheels straight (the ones that the thieves can overwhelm when stealing your RBV) Pulling backwards puts significant negative caster on the axle, putting lots of load on the pin.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

For short drives with manual front hubs it’s acceptable to leave the manual transmission in neutral with an electric T-case. Actually, as long as it’s in 2wd it shouldn’t really hurt anything with a manual in neutral. Pulling the rear driveshaft or having a manual T-case is ideal though.

That said, I have towed autos with auto t-case in neutral but it’s not recommended, there’s a good chance you’ll damage something.

 

[Blmpkn]

Yes, You'd be counting on the pin in steering column to keep the wheels straight (the ones that the thieves can overwhelm when stealing your RBV) Pulling backwards puts significant negative caster on the axle, putting lots of load on the pin.

Thank you, pretty much the answer I was expecting.

 

[bilbo]

I towed my Ranger 2k miles with one. It's 2wd so I had to disconnect the driveshaft. I tied it up out of the way with load binders. Plan your route and any stops so you can have nice wide turns and so you don't have to reverse. That was the most stressful part of the trip for me. I looked at satellite views of parking lots to make sure I didn't drive down a dead end. My timing belt slipped while loading the truck on the dolly so if I would have had to take it off to turn things around that would have sucked getting it back on.

 

[gstuartw]

Thanks all.

Since I will need to reinstall the driveshaft at my destination and won't have the place or tools I might look into a trailer rather than a dolly. The rig I'd have would be my 2011 2wd Explorer with towing package and 5,000lb hitch. Problem is that when I enter that info and the Bronco as the trailered vehicle their calculator won't allow me to go further in the rental. If the rating was listed as 5,500 it would be permitted. So it seems there is a 500lb discrepancy I'd need to work around. I can portably list the trailered vehicle as something else (Escort or such) and rent. My concern (other than liability in the event of an accident) is am I pushing my Explorer (with 189,000) too hard?

 

[scotts90ranger]

Being 4x4, completely remove the rear driveline and just drive around in front wheel drive, it works fine just drives funny and won't hurt anything

Actually towing around with the transmission in neutral isn't the best, everything is lubed from the other end so there isn't any oil getting on things... sure it's fine until it isn't and who knows how long that is...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Biggest thing is getting the driveshaft bolts free. Ford used yellow locktite on them, the stuff that says requires heat to remove. You only have to disconnect at the rear axle and you can tie the driveshaft up. I use blue locktite when I put them back together so I don’t have to fight getting it out again. It’s a little bit of a pain, but it’s 4 bolts, so not the end of the world.

 

[don4331]

Biggest thing is getting the driveshaft bolts free. Ford used yellow locktite on them, the stuff that says requires heat to remove.

Eat your wheaties I have a good 12pt impact socket along with long breaker bar that's never needed heat. And I put them back with lock-tite red.

Countershaft isn't turning with transmission in neutral/engine off. So, your rolling the dice that bearings have enough oil as none is being splashed up.

 

[2011Supercab]

My concern (other than liability in the event of an accident) is am I pushing my Explorer (with 189,000) too hard?

How much more would it cost to rent a U-Haul pickup truck? They let you tow up to 6000lbs

 

[don4331]

Thanks all.

Since I will need to reinstall the driveshaft at my destination and won't have the place or tools I might look into a trailer rather than a dolly. The rig I'd have would be my 2011 2wd Explorer with towing package and 5,000lb hitch. Problem is that when I enter that info and the Bronco as the trailered vehicle their calculator won't allow me to go further in the rental. If the rating was listed as 5,500 it would be permitted. So it seems there is a 500lb discrepancy I'd need to work around. I can portably list the trailered vehicle as something else (Escort or such) and rent. My concern (other than liability in the event of an accident) is am I pushing my Explorer (with 189,000) too hard?

U-haul requires that the towing vehicle weighs 750lbs more than the combination of dolly and towed vehicle. Tow dolly weighs 750, Bronco II is listed at 3,500lbs, Explorer is listed at 4,500lbs. So, by U-haul's calculations, you're 500lbs too heavy. So, its only partially the hitch, and more the weight of tow vehicle that is issue.

You also need to read the fine print on the towing guide: 2011 FWD Explorer is limited to 2k lbs unless a weigh distributing hitch (WHD) is used - and u-haul trailers aren't set up for WHDs. (Personally, I wouldn't want to tow something as heavy as vehicle on tow dolly with FWD without WHD - not enough weight on driving tires). My F-150 has same issue - lots of capacity with WHD, not so much weight carrying so u-haul really limits it compared to ultimate from Ford.

 

[Josh B]

For short drives with manual front hubs it’s acceptable to leave the manual transmission in neutral with an electric T-case. Actually, as long as it’s in 2wd it shouldn’t really hurt anything with a manual in neutral. Pulling the rear driveshaft or having a manual T-case is ideal though.

That said, I have towed autos with auto t-case in neutral but it’s not recommended, there’s a good chance you’ll damage something.

That never once crossed my mind! Even tho I saw a man in middle of a busy intersection working under his vehicle. Stopped ask asked if I could be any help, and he explained he was setting it uo to drive home with his front drive axle.

At least once, maybe twice I have been stranded some way and it did not occur to me to do that! That's ADHD in bold, capital letters!

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Eat your wheaties I have a good 12pt impact socket along with long breaker bar that's never needed heat. And I put them back with lock-tite red.

Countershaft isn't turning with transmission in neutral/engine off. So, your rolling the dice that bearings have enough oil as none is being splashed up.

I didn’t say I couldn’t get it free, I’m just saying that Locktite says yellow “requires heat” to remove. Usually a big breaker bar or my Milwaukee impact makes short work of them without heat.

I did, however, bend a 12 point long handled wrench into a horseshoe with my right boot and not break the bolts free though. I knocked the U-joint apart under the truck that time and took my impact to the bolts when I got home.