Tips on removal/replacing 2.9/5spd for ‘88 Ranger

[Service_Bed]

This is my '88 2.9/5spd. Something blew out the trans and shot a hole in the casing while going 90 in 5th a few mornings ago.


So the two bright holes are in trans and where the mounting bolt broke a chunk off block where they kith


Have to grab a good used eng/trans and do a back alley swap, but while l've got everything out, any tips on what else to do while l'm able to access everything easily? Plan so far is to do -valve cover gaskets, -oil pan gasket -rear main?


For trans what should I get outta the way? Clutch and slave? Budget is a bit tight so might wait on trans stuff seeing as l have the aforementioned gaskets already that I was saving for my old motor, as well would like to possibly install motor and trans as one mated unit? Also would it be easier to add my 4" RC lift with everything out? It's my daily work truck but fortunately a buddy let me borrow his extra car for the time being. Just want to optimize time while everything opened up. Also anyone h a good used 2.9/5spd in SoCal?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So… the lift would be easier to install with everything out of the way. RC was notorious for the lift plate punching holes in the D-35 front differential, not sure if that was remedied ever. Also, you will want long arms for the radius arms unless you hate ride quality and flex.

I would only change the rear main if it showed signs of leaking or potentially leaking. Valve covers would be a definite do, and I personally like to seal them down with gasket shellac. Oil pan gasket, well, if it isn’t leaking I usually leave it alone.

That rear freeze plug looks like it could be leaking…

Also a little concerned with that exhaust manifold missing an ear, I’m surprised that bolt and washer holds.

I would do the 4.0 clutch and slave, get them for a 1990.

The better trans would be an M5OD out of a 4.0 Ranger. Not sure what year they started though.

It is possible to do engine and trans as a unit… but unless you pull the front clip off and the core support which is welded in, you need to lift it really high and stand the engine and trans on end to snake it through. I’ve done it exactly once. I’m not in a hurry to try and repeat that either. A manual transmission isn’t terrible to stab into the engine under the truck. An automatic is definitely more of a pain. If you really want to do it as a unit, you need to pull the front clip off and the core support. I’ve had to replace core supports due to rust and I make them bolt-in for if I want to pull engine/trans as a unit.

Unless that oxygen sensor is less than 10 years old you might want to think about doing that while the trans isn’t in the way.

 

[bobbywalter]

car-part.com

 

[Service_Bed]

So… the lift would be easier to install with everything out of the way. RC was notorious for the lift plate punching holes in the D-35 front differential, not sure if that was remedied ever. Also, you will want long arms for the radius arms unless you hate ride quality and flex.

I would only change the rear main if it showed signs of leaking or potentially leaking. Valve covers would be a definite do, and I personally like to seal them down with gasket shellac. Oil pan gasket, well, if it isn’t leaking I usually leave it alone.

That rear freeze plug looks like it could be leaking…

Also a little concerned with that exhaust manifold missing an ear, I’m surprised that bolt and washer holds.

I would do the 4.0 clutch and slave, get them for a 1990.

The better trans would be an M5OD out of a 4.0 Ranger. Not sure what year they started though.

It is possible to do engine and trans as a unit… but unless you pull the front clip off and the core support which is welded in, you need to lift it really high and stand the engine and trans on end to snake it through. I’ve done it exactly once. I’m not in a hurry to try and repeat that either. A manual transmission isn’t terrible to stab into the engine under the truck. An automatic is definitely more of a pain. If you really want to do it as a unit, you need to pull the front clip off and the core support. I’ve had to replace core supports due to rust and I make them bolt-in for if I want to pull engine/trans as a unit.

Unless that oxygen sensor is less than 10 years old you might want to think about doing that while the trans isn’t in the way.

Thanks for the reply, I should have clarified it’s a 2wd and 5spd manual (thankfully) it *Had* the M50D but the amount of holes in the case wont help for a potential rebuild. Also where it shot parts out it unfortunately took a big cast iron chunk from the motor where it mated to the transmission on the top bolts. It’s honestly kinda crazy how much damage everything took but will still shift into neutral/1st and start the motor with no oil leaking. I am curious about removing the core support. I saw your other posts about that but would you be able to add a photo so I could see where exactly you cut the spot welds? Not sure if it’s all the way to fender well or just parallel with frame horns.

 

[bobbywalter]

my bronco is 3 piece....core support and inner fenders are separable. i tend to just lift it off as a unit though.

truck just lifts off in one piece.

 

[bobbywalter]

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[bobbywalter]

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[Service_Bed]

Pardon Our Interruption...

View attachment 130844

I wish! I’m unfortunately in the Communist republic of California so emission regulations will have to be followed or else I’d be looking for a SBF swap

 

[bobbywalter]

that is emissions certifiable.

 

[Service_Bed]

 

[bobbywalter]

same with a newer 4.0. just keep it stock.

 

[Service_Bed]

View attachment 130845View attachment 130846View attachment 130847

At least the drive shaft will be easy to remove haha

 

[Service_Bed]

same with a newer 4.0. just keep it stock.

yea I just can’t justify the price point for a modern engine swap let alone the time and fab needed. This is my daily driver work truck with a service bed that I need on my job sites. So I need it up and going as quick as possible. The 2.9 has been great for me for the past 4yrs honestly, loaded down with 1.5 pallets of concrete barely slowed me down surprisingly so I’m happy with that combo. But even with the 4.0 being more of a drop in, the wiring harness swap and things needed would hold me up more than I’d like. As well, the 2.9 I’m looking at is mated to a 5spd and gonna test drive prior to pulling it for transplant.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So, unfortunately, my 88 that I made to bolt in isn’t here but in my storage location and I don’t know when I’ll be over that way next that I can get pics. I don’t believe I took any pics of how I did that one and that was way before I ever thought to record video. I basically was rather strategic about my cuts to remove what was left of the rotted one to give me some flanges to bolt to. I only had it temporarily bolted together when life forced me to step back from that project.

My 2000, dad’s 99, and my buddy Paul’s 98, we drilled the spot welds completely through and put 1/4”-20x5/8” stainless button caps with a washer and serrated flange nut. I probably could have gotten more creative but it works and hopefully you don’t have to pull it a lot. If I expected to have to pull it a lot (and don’t be surprised if this happens to the Choptop the next time it needs a motor), I’d go @bobbywalter style and make it a quick bolt in.

FYI, the somewhat of a cheat code for the 4.0 is to swap to the second gen dash and electrical. If you don’t mind the second gen dash, it’s pretty much all just fishing wires. It also gives you an easy excuse to go to the second gen fuel system, which with one pump in the tank is much simpler. I’d definitely consider changing the fuel system over to a second gen even if you don’t go 4.0

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I have done the drilling of spot welds at 2 places on 2 different trucks. The first was on my low buck race truck, iirc 27 spot welds on each side behind the fender on the firewall. I used sheet metal screws and screwed it back together.
The second was on a b-2 and drilled the spot welds on the rad support. I don't remember exactly how many but similar as the first. Also screwed it back together with sheet metal screws.
On a explorer that I removed the engine and trans in one piece, I cut the piece above the rad off. It would be pretty simple to scab that back together with some sheet metal patches and screws...