Tiny little scratches in the clear after removing baked mold and grime.


RobWigglezz

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Joined
Oct 17, 2025
Messages
275
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101
City
Park
State - Country
MI - USA
Vehicle Year
2000
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
2WD
Engine
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
My credo
Question everything
This truck sat for around 5 years or more before I purchased it. It obviously had sat under a tree and had very tough to remove mold or something all over it. Seller got a lot of it off except the roof and between the bed and cab.

I took a wool pad and some Meguiars ultimate compound to a section of the roof and either found these scratches or created them myself. Any thoughts or suggestions on the right way to remove this crap.

They are on the hood also and I've only hand buffed with a microfiber there. So I'm thinking they were just hiding under the grime and mold.
 

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I would recommend that you continue to buff. Go slow. Take it easy. Use a try a fine grit buffing compound. If that doesn't work try something more agressive. Don't use the wool pad. You can get an almost mirror shine, especially with a darker color.
 

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Should I use a foam pad then? It's hard to see in these pictures. I hand buffed the driver side and it looks ok in the picture. But up close it's still cloudy and splotchy
 

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Should I use a foam pad then? It's hard to see in these pictures. I hand buffed the driver side and it looks ok in the picture. But up close it's still cloudy and splotchy
A wool pad will leave scratches Use foam or micro fiber. Maybe begin with a fine grit compound. You really need a buffer. Maybe just get a cheap one.
 

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These items from Eastwood Automotive might be useful:

Eastwood Automotive 12526 [glass polishing kit for deep scratches]

Eastwood Automotive 12525 [pro glass polishing kit for lighter scratches]

Also, certain kinds of tree sap, such as from pines, can be almost impossible to get off windshield glass using conventional means. You might be dealing with that too.
 
Or try using rubbing alcohol on the glass

It doesn't hurt to clay bar the painted surfaces there's a lot of brake dust imbedded in the finish. It's good to remove it before you buff.
 
These items from Eastwood Automotive might be useful:

Eastwood Automotive 12526 [glass polishing kit for deep scratches]

Eastwood Automotive 12525 [pro glass polishing kit for lighter scratches]

Also, certain kinds of tree sap, such as from pines, can be almost impossible to get off windshield glass using conventional means. You might be dealing with that too.
Thanks for the suggestions. The glass is good, just the roof and hood. I'm honestly not sure what exactly is baked on. It's hard to get a good picture of also. I think the light is exaggerating it a little here in this photo, but you can see it at least
 

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That looks like mildew or soap scum in the shower to me. Maybe somebody frequent the car wash without rinse?
 
I misunderstood and thought you were talking about the glass. My apologies.
 
Should I use a foam pad then? It's hard to see in these pictures. I hand buffed the driver side and it looks ok in the picture. But up close it's still cloudy and splotchy
It is possible that the paint has oxidized. Just buff it off.
 
It is possible that the paint has oxidized. Just buff it off.
10-4. As far as these tiny cracks or scratches (1/4" long). Is that clear coat? If the paint got real hot from a pad, the clear coat would just get all foggy and dull right?
 
10-4. As far as these tiny cracks or scratches (1/4" long). Is that clear coat? If the paint got real hot from a pad, the clear coat would just get all foggy and dull right?
It's a good guess, but it's hard for us to know from far away. Take it to a body shop. I bet they would know.
 
I zoomed in on the cracks if anyone was curious
 

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I zoomed in on the cracks if anyone was curious
Those are pretty deep scratches. They look like they go all the way through the clear coat. If so, you might find it easiest to degrease the original finish, then wet lightly with one thousand grit. If I am correct, you need not sand those scratches all the way out, just enough to give the surface a little "tooth." Finally spray three coats of acrylic Duplicolor Clear Coat over the top. Don't buy those little cans either. Try twelve or sixteen ounce.

One NAPA dealer in our town has a special paint shop. They have the clear coat. If your store is like mine, they have a few real paint professionals behind the counter who can tell you exactly what's going on and what to do.

I had mine repainted only to get caught in a hail storm which left a few scratches. The new clearcoat fixed the problem.
 

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