Timing issue on a 2.3L ?

[jmcleek]

Got a code 23 followed by all 1s , 23 isThrottle posiition out of self test range. set at .66 tighten screws ,changed to .54 resit codes.

 

[Insanejughead]

Try adjusting the TPS while it's running. I noticed that my TPS reading likes to change after I set it, too.

I've set mine at .66v and when it starts up it then reads ~.71v.

So, I got it running, then readjusted it until it read .65v. Now I'm happy with it.

Btw, the stator was the problem? Oh, and did you bust some teeth on the distributor gear getting it back on? I frequently use a 19mm socket to get mine back on the shaft.

 

[jmcleek]

Btw, the stator was the problem? Oh, and did you bust some teeth on the distributor gear getting it back on? I frequently use a 19mm socket to get mine back on the shaft.

Wish it was just a chiped tooth, but putting the pin back in I knocked out the back side. Yeah I did see that on thetps and other thangs to.

As far as the stator , sense it ran I figered it was eather a noisy transisor in the module or the sensor in the stator was bad ,so I changed them both.

I was going to reset the tpi but found that I had knocked a vaccum line lose and had to reset it agan. it shows about .71v running now without adjusting.

It now has good throttel response, but the timing is still at about 25-30 btdc.

Check this out http://www.fixya.com/cars/t12290736-1991_ford_ranger_2_3_need_timing_mark Is it posible that there is more than 1 timing mark on the cam gear?

 

[Insanejughead]

No. Our engines have only a "lump" on the inner lip of the camshaft sprocket. That lump must be aligned with the center mark (out of those three) on the plastic timing belt housing when getting the belt lined up.

After setting the belt in place and tightening it with the tensioner, it's a DAMN good idea to check the belt and sprocket alignment by:
1. Putting the crankshaft bolt in snug in its place.
2. Turning the crankshaft clockwise for two full turns (slowly, as to not overtighten the crank bolt).
3. If all of the sprockets still line up exactly on those marks, then you're good to go. If not, adjust the belt one notch on the camshaft sprocket.


Is that timing with the SPOUT connector plugged in or out?

(Also, if you want to take what I say and use it in your post, click the "Quote" button at the bottom of my post and then type what you want to say outside of the [/Quote] parts. It makes it easier to know what information you're piggybacking off of.)

 

[jmcleek]

No. Our engines have only a "lump" on the inner lip of the camshaft sprocket. That lump must be aligned with the center mark (out of those three) on the plastic timing belt housing when getting the belt lined up.

After setting the belt in place and tightening it with the tensioner, it's a DAMN good idea to check the belt and sprocket alignment by:
1. Putting the crankshaft bolt in snug in its place.
2. Turning the crankshaft clockwise for two full turns (slowly, as to not overtighten the crank bolt).
3. If all of the sprockets still line up exactly on those marks, then you're good to go. If not, adjust the belt one notch on the camshaft sprocket.


Is that timing with the SPOUT connector plugged in or out?

That is about the way that it lined up. Yes with the spout pulled. the reson I ask was the drawing in that post looked like it had 3 marks. Do you know of anything else that would make the base timing off like that? If it is not set like that it will not start and runs bad when set on15 btdc and will die.

 

[Insanejughead]

That is about the way that it lined up. Yes with the spout pulled. the reson I ask was the drawing in that post looked like it had 3 marks. Do you know of anything else that would make the base timing off like that? If it is not set like that it will not start and runs bad when set on15 btdc and will die.

You almost had the quote part down, but you deleted the [/QUOTE] part after what I had said. If you had left that in, it would've created the darkened box with my words in it.


I'm beginning to think I can't help you any more on this subject. Where are you at? I'm sure there must be someone near you that can offer another set of eyes to look at what you're working with.

I'm going to be thinking about this for the next few days. It's bugging me that it still isn't working 100% for you.

 

[jmcleek]

You almost had the quote part down, but you deleted the () part after what I had said. If you had left that in, it would've created the darkened box with my words in it.


I'm beginning to think I can't help you any more on this subject. Where are you at? I'm sure there must be someone near you that can offer another set of eyes to look at what you're working with.

I'm going to be thinking about this for the next few days. It's bugging me that it still isn't working 100% for you.

Is this more like it had to delete quote where I put the() it was throwing things off.

Got out the white paint and highlighted all the timing marks double check them, and with the cam mark centered on the center bar (or mark on the enter timing cover) the crank mark is at about 1 or 2 d btdc. So I am dun with that. I should of check timing before doing the head gasket may of been that way already. Back to research . Thanks for your input!

 

[Insanejughead]

The only other thing that I can think of that might affect anything would be the TFI module...

I've never had a TFI module go bad, so I'm not too sure of how it could affect anything, but if you can get a different module, give it a try.


So you found out that parentheses don't work when trying to quote me? You have to leave the brackets as they are. Haha, glad you finally got it down man, it was getting confusing when I was re-reading what I had told you and then realized that it wasn't what you were saying.

 

[jmcleek]

Took it for a drive ,15-20 min. started spuddering , if you pushed it, it was like you lost all spark took it home and checked codes.
Got a code 23 again reset the tps to .66 checked it again tps code gone.

getting a coge 32 -evp voltage below close limit. This is something to do with the egr position sensor. Egr checks out good . set a code 34 while appling vaccum to the egr. 34- evp above closed limit. Tube from exhaust gets hot when vaccum was applied. Don't seem to get out of closed lop .Spit and sputtered when vaccum was applied. Also noticed the timing changed when I was doing this.

Last code was 77 operator error (dynamic response/cylinder balance tests) not sure what that is.
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I've never had a TFI module go bad, so I'm not too sure of how it could affect anything, but if you can get a different module, give it a try.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
That is something to check into.

 

[jmcleek]

Already replaced tfi module. I think that acts like an amp for the pickup/stater, and usally stops working when hot.

Code 77- exsplain the goose test in simple terms please? Big dummy miss that one.

 

[jmcleek]

I tested a differnt map sensor on it, ran the same.


What about the EGR vacuum solsnoid? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa.../N-iim86Z9gszg?itemIdentifier=525203_56845_0_

http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4913647_how-egr-vacuum-solenoid-works.html

 

[jmcleek]

The wiring book for the ranger calls it the EGR control solenoid , and the EGR vent solenoid . They are one peice between the air cleaner and fender. Both are power by the same red wire ( 12V ) and grounded by the computer , yellow for the control solenoid ,and dark green for thevent solenoid. So I checked them on the truck by appling vacuum to vacuum lines ,unpluging the elctric lines and jumping to the bat. + and - all checks out good. so if the computer isn't grounding the solenoids..... Checked the throttle air bypass valve solenoid, it was dirty , cleaned best I could without taking it apart , seems to work on the bench. so the stiker over the back of the computer says something about < for 3.0L sabal only> Looks like a waranty replacement part. anyone have any thoughts? Any thing else to check?

 

[jmcleek]

So , I read somewhere that the ACT sensor ( air charge temp sensor) Can cause all types of symptoms if weak or comtamenated without throughing any codes. So I pulled it out to check it, and it was really nasty ,looked origenal, so I replaced it. I was able to set timing to 10 DBTDC ,But still hard to start. I allso read that plugs may make it hard to start so change them to. Had Autolite 2545, changed to Motorcraft awsf44c. Starts alot easyer . Still have surging at ideal cold and hot ,engine will speed up and slow down by it self . Allso runs rich has a bog when goosed. Throttle position senson set voltage change to 0.74v , so I,ll be resetting codes and checking agian. Any thoughs or ideas?

 

[Mark_88]

My 89 Tempo had surging idle...but it was wild surging...like up and down two thousand RPM...turned out to be the MAP sensor...did you swap out the MAP sensor? try a different one if you have a spare...or grab one from a junkyard...they are about $100 to buy new but usually free at the junkyards...

they are also good at throwing codes for the MAP...O2 sensors can also give you some wild fluctuations...

If you haven't done so already, try disconnecting the battery for half an hour or so...or otherwise reset the computer...

 

[jmcleek]

My 89 Tempo had surging idle...but it was wild surging...like up and down two thousand RPM...turned out to be the MAP sensor...did you swap out the MAP sensor? try a different one if you have a spare...or grab one from a junkyard...they are about $100 to buy new but usually free at the junkyards...

they are also good at throwing codes for the MAP...O2 sensors can also give you some wild fluctuations...

If you haven't done so already, try disconnecting the battery for half an hour or so...or otherwise reset the computer...

I was thinking of checking the O2 sensor because it runs (idles ) fine for 45 sec. or so before it starts to act up. The O2 sensor is a 3 wire tipe (heated).
As far as the map sensor, I tried one from the other ranger (v8) before changeing parts menchend in my last post, didnt have any afect ,may try agian later. I'am thinking that some stored codes may be throwing the tpi off. I found that the method menchen removes most code but not all. Tried the v6 computer from the other truck in there, ran alot wheres, but enouth of the same symtoms where there to rule out the computer. This computer hasn't been in a truck for 2 years but when I run the codes, it had code 95- compute not grounded to engen- open fuel pump cuircut, Truck that it came from had the wires broke off the in tank fuel pump. I found that unplugging the gound when running the codes a second time then disconecting the battery removes all codes.