This 2.3 has got me stumped.

[kimcrwbr1]

That computer is from the right year my book says it should have 32 pins on the computer 33 for california, but cant find the last three digits but from all the part numbers I have looked at E5TF-12A650 is a 85 2.3 the designator is the last three or two digits F1C i believe is automatic and two digits is manual but cant confirm that.

 

[DunnZach]

Most likely a fuel-related problem. Check the injectors (if equipped) and look over the in-tank fuel pump as well as the frame-rail pump. Go ahead and change the in line and the tank filters. Wouldnt hurt to add some fuel treatment in the tank as well.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I have never worked on a 2.3 does anyone here know about where the timeing should be with the spout wire connected. My book says 10 degrees base and guessing up around22-25 with the computer controlling it at an idle maybe higher.

 

[Off Road SHO]

I just checked your fuel pressure is fine 30-40 is spec. Once you confirm the timing then troubleshoot further if necessary.

It's going to be difficult with only 20-30 seconds of run time but I will do that and get back on here with the results. What direction do I rotate the Dizzy for more advance? CW or CCW?

Tom

 

[Off Road SHO]

Well I'll be damned! Kimcrwbr1 nailed it. With the spout disconnected, I set the base timing at 10 like it said on the core support tag. Plugged the spout back together and it idles fine with the timing at about 20-22 degrees. BUT, it still died. Then I realized that when I had taken the EGR control solenoid out of the vacuum path, I had looped the EGR valve right back to manifold vacuum. Plugged off both of those and it idles until the cows come home.

So to recap: The original EGR valve was carboned up in the "open" position. The "new" EGR from the Mustang works.

The EGR Solenoid control valve from the junk yard does not close off the path, just like the original, but I can scour more junkyards and look for one that does work in my leisure.

The engine is not warming up at all even after idling for 20 minutes. I noticed there was a brand new thermostat in the cab, so maybe the previous owner knew about that problem. As soon as I get it up to operating temperature a few times, I will run the codes again.

The wiring is still in sad shape but I can tape up the bare wires with electrical until I can find a new harness.

I will check the fuel pressure again and see if the different timing was causing the 25 psi.

Now I can go about fixing this sucker up.

I want to extend a heart felt thanks to all who responded and helped us get this Ranger on the road again. We were this [.] close to parting out a perfectly (well, almost) good Ranger.

Thanks again guys.

Tom

 

[TheTopher]

CONGRATS, MATE!


Now go sit in the cab and listen to that sweet kitten purr....for more than 40 seconds.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

How cold is it there you can put some cardboard in front of the radiator to warm it up. Does the heater work.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Hook the vacuum up to the egr solenoid and put a tee in the line going to the egr and hook your vacuum guage to it and see if the egr responds to throttle position. That valve may be working now you got it running and the egr is working.

 

[John Smith]

And away we go!

Good job man...a little patience and a lot of reward....

 

[Off Road SHO]

Thanks guys. Actually went around the block in it tonight. Brrrrrrr is it cold out. We've had snow flurries all day if you can believe that. Snowing in Phoenix.

Put a new 192 degree thermostat in to replace the one that was missing. Still can't get it to warm up past 130 degrees at the thermostat housing with an IR Thermometer. But at least it stays running.

I need to recheck timing, check spark plugs, tape up all the skinned wires (while I look for another engine harness; anybody know where to get one?), replace the O2 sensor, weld in a new muffler, figure out why it won't heat up, flush the radiator, find a new power steering unit, fix the oil pan leak, fix the tranny pan leak, find another EGR control solenoid, etc., etc....


But hey! I stays running. Life doesn't get any better than this.


Tom

 

[TheTopher]

My truck never reaches full temperature unless I'm driving it. It'll usually hover in the 130-150 range if I leave it idling in the winter...it just doesn't get hotter than that.


When I start driving it for a little while it'll get up to temp and stay in the 190 range.


My ex girlfriend's dad had an 89 2.3 and he said his truck was the same way since the day he bought it new.



I think it just has something to do with the volume of air under the hood in a 4 cylinder Ranger versus how little heat a motor that small puts out...at any rate they just don't seem to get that hot just from idling.

 

[John Smith]

i had that problem in a 74 Pinto

I took it to Alaska winter of "75".. I couldn't get the heater valve to shut, and had to duct tape the vents to even drive it w/o being wrapped in a mummy bag thru the Yukon territory....miserable...even w cardboard over the radiator...of t course that car actually had a full time rad fan...

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I would hit up the bone yards for the harness if you can find one. Keep an eye on craigs list also for a donor somtimes you get lucky there also. I hear the cardboard trick works good for those little engines I doubt your radiator needs anything but the right mix of coolant. Have you reset the computer yet run the KOEO test and when it starts giving you codes end the test that erases the memory then disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to reset the computer. Then run it for at least 20 minutes at medium speeds to set the new values. If it is running good and you get solid 11-1-11 then you can pick away at that other stuff.

 

[Off Road SHO]

I tried to erase the EGR code with my scan tool and for some reason it wouldn't. I'll try the disconnect while outputting trick and see if that works.

I would think that the thermostat would bring the temp of the engine and its coolant to 192 degrees. That is the reason for a thermostat; not to keep the engine cool but to keep it warm. The coolant inside the radiator might be cooler, but if the thermostat is working and you have your heater hoses connected to a good heater core, you should be getting 192 degree coolant to your heater. Right? Maybe he's got the heater hoses messed up also.

I thought you only had to disconnect the battery for 10 seconds and turn on the headlight to drain everything from the KAM. So leave it off for 30 minutes? Will it then need to have the idle set?


Tom

 

[kimcrwbr1]

No when you reset the computer it automatically resets all the values and by driving it around for 20 or so minutes at least one good warm up cycle. When you change or clean a sensor you need to set new values. The book says 20 minutes to drain the capacitors in the computer but 30 minutes assures it happens. Those are on demand values and adjust with normal wear but dont go backwards that is why when you alter a sensor you must reset it or it may run on old values with a new sensor. It may run a little rough at first but it will re-learn itself and can take a few warmups to do that. first erase the memory then disconnect the batt. And then test it again after the engine has gone through at least one full warmup cycle and run the codes while it is still hot. I have heard you can short the pos batt cable to the frame for a fast discharge but it`s not in my book besides 30 minutes goes by pretty quick when you messing with something else.