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Thinking of picking up a Ranger


cjk5063

Active Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2015
Messages
41
Transmission
Automatic
Hey all,
Thinking of picking up a used ranger or equivalent sometime next year. What are some things I should look for or avoid?

The truck will be used for dump runs and picking things up/moving stuff. I'll drive it in the snow too if it is 4wd.

Ideally I can find something that runs well and isn't an eyesore - thoughts?
 
If you really want to know what to avoid and look out for, it would be nice to know a general idea of what year ranger you want. Different generations have different qwerks.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 
Good point, 97 and earlier generation?

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If 4WD look to see if it has been converted to Manual Lock/unlock Hubs, none of the Ford Auto hubs worked well after a few years of use.

4.0l engine, 1990-2000 was a good solid engine, reasonable power, expect 16-18mpg
3.0l "Vulcan" engine, 1991 to 2008, was also a good engine but lacked the power of the 4.0l and got about the same MPG, nothing wrong with it but if you are choosing between the two go for 4.0l.
2.3l or 2.5l "Lima" engine, is another reliable engine, but does need the timing belt to be changed every 70-80k, it is a 4 cylinder so not a power house but did get good MPG above 20, so a popular engine choice for small pickup truck, although 4WD option would be few a far between.

Drive trains were good on all models, manual trans is preferred by most because of the large chunk of cash($2,000-$2,500) needed for automatic rebuilds, but long term changing the clutch a few times on a manual will cost the same if done in a shop.
Thing is that most can do a clutch swap themselves but not an automatic rebuild, so......

Frame(and body) rust is an issue on all vehicles, so worth having a look, rear spring hangers tend to go first.

Look for non-factory wiring, when a vehicle get 15+ years old it could have had a few owners, and each may have added things that could cause you issues down the road :)

And NEVER EVER buy a vehicle that doesn't have a Check Engine Light(CEL) come on when key is first turned on.
"Just a burned out bulb"................in a pig's eye, lol.

And if CEL is on while driving, it is NOT a "simple fix", if it was they would have fixed it, they are selling it after all, right.
 
Thanks for the advice Ron. How would one tell if the 4wd is locked or converted? And this would affect fuel economy, but is it also undue wear on the 4wd drivetrain on dry roads?
 
The manual hubs Ron speaks of are turned on by hand at the wheel hub. There is a "knob" [only term I could think of] that is turned from "free" to "lock". The auto hubs don't have any way to turn on or off, they are "automatic" when they work.
 
Manual hubs would have a positive effect on MPG if auto hubs weren't unlocking like they should, but it isn't much.

Have a look here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/howto_hubswap.shtml

It isn't a hard DIY conversion, just the cost of the manual hubs.

As alwaysfloored said manual hubs have a "knob" on each front wheel that you need to turn to lock the wheel to the front axle or to unlock it from the front axle.

In 2001 Rangers all got "live axles", Ford gave up on auto hubs, so front axle and wheels are always connected, study showed less than .3mpg difference with live axle vs unlocked axles.

With manual hubs you can leave front axle/wheels locked in winter, so you just need to shift into 4 wheel high from inside the cab when needed, and then back to 2WD when you want.
 
Thanks guys. Here's a stupid question-will a 4x8 sheet of plywood or drywall fit in the bed of a ranger short bed with the tailgate down? Or do the wheel wells interfere?
 
Wheel wells won't let it lie flat, need full size truck for that
 
The inner side walls of the Ranger's truck bed have notches so you can lay a couple 2x4's across the bed. The 2x4's sit just above the wheel wells so you can lay 4x8 sheets of plywood/drywall flat.
 
yup....4x8 fit, but....obviously stick out the back.


i run rack systems as well for big stuff.
 
Help me out guys, 99 7 ft bed, 4x4, 130k ranger. Pretty clean, needs an O2 sensor and is claimed to run rough until warm because of that. What's a fair price? We're around $2k...
 
What engine? I would pay that for a 4.0 4x4...02 sensors are easy enough to change...unless there are complications...it can add quite a bit to getting it certified if you are getting CEL (MIL) and need to replace exhaust system...

oh...where do you live?
 
Live in CT. 3.0 engine. Good on emissions.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
 
I'm thinking he's a little high. Going to see the truck tomorrow.
 

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