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Thinking of a Dana 30 swap


2010_Ranger

Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2025
Messages
18
City
Elko
Vehicle Year
2010
Transmission
Automatic
I'm looking into doing a Dana 30 axle swap. The Dana 30 is from a 97 TJ and has a 5x4.5 bolt pattern. I'll post a picture of the axles.
1000001654.png

I'm mostly wondering if this will be a good investment to complete it. Right now my gear ratio is 4.10 and I currently have the stock Dana 35 sla.
 
It's a pretty common swap, I know James Duff makes a swap kit but don't know what axles it works for... you'd likely need to get the D30 regeared to match the rear...
 
It's a pretty common swap, I know James Duff makes a swap kit but don't know what axles it works for... you'd likely need to get the D30 regeared to match the rear...

Thanks for the response. I'm mostly confident but I'm not too knowledgeable about the details. I believe the one I'm looking to install has the vacuum system which appears to be less desirable. For moderate off-roading would you install the 97 tj Dana's?
 
There's a way to remove the vacuum thing and lock it solid or make a cable disconnect, not a huge thing, yes less desirable but if you're going for 33" tires or less you'll be fine most likely
 
What is your end goal for the truck? A D-30 isn’t really any stronger than the D-35 although on a 98-11 Ranger it’s an improvement over the IFS for off-road. If you want to run bigger than a 33” tire, you are going to want a D-44 or bigger.
 
What is your end goal for the truck? A D-30 isn’t really any stronger than the D-35 although on a 98-11 Ranger it’s an improvement over the IFS for off-road. If you want to run bigger than a 33” tire, you are going to want a D-44 or bigger.

Hi I'm looking to off-road. Nothing too crazy but in all conditions snow, rain, dirt. Just to camp, hunt, fish on roads less traveled. I've been contemplating a locker with 4.10 gears front and back. I don't plan on going to need bigger tires than what I'm currently running 295s on 17s. I won't be doing much highway driving mostly in town and off-road.
 
There's a way to remove the vacuum thing and lock it solid or make a cable disconnect, not a huge thing, yes less desirable but if you're going for 33" tires or less you'll be fine most likely

Ok that's good to know.
 
From what you are describing on what you want to do with it, why do you want to do the swap?

The existing axle is more than capable of dealing with that. Unless there is a perceived benefit you are thinking about that I'm missing.

I'm not bashing the idea. I just don't see what the benefit of the swap would be for you.
 
From what you are describing on what you want to do with it, why do you want to do the swap?

The existing axle is more than capable of dealing with that. Unless there is a perceived benefit you are thinking about that I'm missing.

I'm not bashing the idea. I just don't see what the benefit of the swap would be for you.

Well that's basically why I'm asking. From what I've seen a Dana 30 is a solid sas. It would provide more ground clearance, more wheel travel than the sla. Is that correct? I'm not too sure how coilovers would fit with the sas as I haven't researched that too much but ricksrangerz does make one. So I'm researching and deciding if it's worth the time & effort to upgrade to a solid axle like a Dana 30.
 
Well that's basically why I'm asking. From what I've seen a Dana 30 is a solid sas. It would provide more ground clearance, more wheel travel than the sla. Is that correct? I'm not too sure how coilovers would fit with the sas as I haven't researched that too much but ricksrangerz does make one. So I'm researching and deciding if it's worth the time & effort to upgrade to a solid axle like a Dana 30.
I think what @sgtsandman is getting at is that he built up his 2011 to be able to do what you’re talking about doing. He is still running IFS.

Rock crawling is where you really gain the advantage with a straight axle, or a big lift and big tires. In that case you’re gonna want a D-44 or Superduty axles.
 
Well that's basically why I'm asking. From what I've seen a Dana 30 is a solid sas. It would provide more ground clearance, more wheel travel than the sla. Is that correct? I'm not too sure how coilovers would fit with the sas as I haven't researched that too much but ricksrangerz does make one. So I'm researching and deciding if it's worth the time & effort to upgrade to a solid axle like a Dana 30.

Doing an SAS is for if you are looking to rock crawl or something that needs more articulation. But those looking to do that are also wanting something stronger so they can put bigger tires on it for better crawling over rocks and obsticles.

The Ranger is also heavier than a Jeep. So, switching to the Dana 30 is a bit of a step back, both because the axle is weaker and because the truck is heavier.

For what you are looking to do, a good set of tires will do more for you than an axle swap.
 
I agree it's kinda a wash, the IFS in that era isn't great but it does work... I've beat the snot out of my '00 Explorer with the same front axle and sure it's shot but it's pretty much because its been ran out of oil... I've been going to swap it's front suspension for like 9 years now and keep ignoring it since it's dispensible but now it's shot and I'm not quite ready to swap it yet so I need to put in my spare here soon...

The articulation is better with a solid axle but on road and fire road is going to be better with the IFS... finding the balance with the IFS is likely the best route for stockish tires
 
tough to say.

especially the weight difference. most 6 cylinder jeeps weigh more than reg cab rangers.


my ranger is always heavy. and if you are geared up its a wash either way.

the jeep 30 is the rare polishable turd. and the stock ranger ifs has specific limits.

if you are hitting those limits then a swap may be worth it.


generally it is not worth swapping until you suspension lift an ifs truck...this is when you have to consider using a dana 30.

otherwise if your tire size is livable with merely 410 gears and a body lift then there is no reason to consider a dana 30 solid axle...just find bolt in oem differentials with the gearing you want.


the cost of lifting a sla and the compromise of reliability that comes with that depending on system, makes a high pinion dana 30 a clear winner.

the average diy guy can incrementally build it to high capacity to run 37s over time with stock ranger power levels....of course you want 488 gears for that but....that is why you need to game it out.

there are weld in beef kits and rcv axles available for it...that are 1/2 the price of the sla shafts...
 
Ok I'm thinking I might be getting ahead of myself. I don't plan on doing much rock crawling at the moment. So I'm debating on holding off on the Dana 30s. I like the moderate builds on the forums 👇 however the torsen differential is nearly impossible to find so I'm thinking a truetrac locker in both front and back with a coilover conversion. Also other mods like exhaust, hood scoop/vents, cold air intake possibly upgrade to 4.56 gears
1000001388.png
 
another depends. first thing to buy is a winch.



trutrac definitely better than open diff or traklok.



the cost of regearing and differentials is very high. very very high.



when at this dollar level....i prefer selectable lockers. definitely for the front.

but a 4.0 with 33 in tires and 355 gears is fine. 373 or 410 definitely better but for sure 355 is livable.

if i read you right you do in fact have 410 gears.

so dropping a lunchbox in the rear and living with that is the most cost effective option. many find them to be too harsh. but they are usually less than 300 bux...about the same cost as a traveler or harbor freight winch.
 

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