Thicker 2-Row radiator. Will it really fit?

[Paisano]

Hello again,

Just confirmed this morning my 1992 Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6 has a radiator leak. So I'll plan on replacing it this weekend.

I notice Reach Cooling part# 41-1164 is listed to fit my truck. It is a 2-row core radiator. Manufacturer confirms it should fit my truck.
I'm a bit hesitant because it seems to be about an inch thicker than the standard radiator.

I would like to hear from you guys first before I purchase. We have an extremely hot summer climate in Phoenix and this model might give it some extra cooling.

1. Will the system handle the extra coolant? (just want to make sure the opposite won't happen with engine running warmer than standard radiator)

2. Will it slide into that 'slot' in the front engine bay?

3. Will it be too close to the spinning radiator fan?

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Shran]

1. Yep, no problem
2. Yep, this is a common and very easy swap
3. No, it'll be fine although your shroud may not be ideal. Usually you want a bit of fan showing outside of the shroud. If the fan is totally inside the shroud, it can reduce its efficiency a bit. Hard to say how this will line up, just try it and see - you might need a junkyard shroud is all or it might be fine.

After messing with different radiators over the years I am starting to think that bigger is sometimes better but not always. There is a gray area where more rows/more coolant = better cooling but so does less rows & less coolant (to a point.) I think the biggest radiator paired with low speeds may act as a heat sink and contribute to higher temps... you need more air flow so do you put a heavy duty fan clutch in and lose mileage/HP? Adding an AC condenser to the mix can compound that. I am running a 1 row radiator in my new crawler and last weekend it was pretty warm out. The temp gauge didn't ever get past the R on NORMAL...about where it always is at when the engine is at operating temp. That was with an automatic (not plumbed into the radiator) and a normal duty fan clutch, plus a lot of very low speed crawling at moderate-heavy loads. The fan clutch never even kicked in. So in that case I am thinking that a thinner radiator = water being cooled faster at low speeds rather than relying on highway speed air flow.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have a two row from an Explorer in mine... with a V8.

I did have to get the corresponding shroud, the mounting clips at the bottom are spaced differently.

Aftermarket... who knows on the clip spacing.

Otherwise they are a popular upgrade.

That said... it did last 30+ years with a one row.

And I kind of agree with Shran but I don't know if a two row is really far enough over that threshold to matter. OE's usually try to maintain single rows as much as they can, they just make them bigger. Easier to get more airflow thru a thinner rad, airflow is what cools the rad.

 

[Paisano]

Here is some more info.

I have a standard duty fan clutch. My A/C has been broken for many years and will never be fixed.

This also raises a question I have meaning to ask for a long time
I notice my truck runs a lot warmer on the freeway with all up to date cooling system parts.

If I am driving 40mph on secondary roads with no traffic lights......the temp can go right down to 195 when it's over 110 degrees out. Is this because the fan can't handle all the hot air being dumped in through the grill?

So with this info.............would you go with 2-core radiator?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Here is some more info.

I have a standard duty fan clutch. My A/C has been broken for many years and will never be fixed.

This also raises a question I have meaning to ask for a long time
I notice my truck runs a lot warmer on the freeway with all up to date cooling system parts.

If I am driving 40mph on secondary roads with no traffic lights......the temp can go right down to 195 when it's over 110 degrees out. Is this because the fan can't handle all the hot air being dumped in through the grill?

So with this info.............would you go with 2-core radiator?

Factory thermostat is around 190*, IMO everything is working as it should.

 

[Paisano]

I use a 180 degree thermostat. It's so hot out here, my fan clutch runs almost continuously during the summer.

 

[Shran]

You can get aftermarket 3 row rads for 2nd/3rd gen trucks, probably later ones too. That is what I have historically used for '86 up V6's. 91-94 Explorer w/ auto, w/ AC is the donor. That part was probably used in Rangers too of similar flavor.

I went down this rabbit hole with my '92 Explorer. It had a 1 row since it came with a manual trans and AC. I figured bigger=better so I put a 3 row in with the correct shroud. It was fine until I fixed the AC (new everything including condenser.) Then it started getting hot at idle with the AC on and on long mountain pass type situations. So I put a "heavy" duty fan clutch in it (normal, heavy, severe are the ones you can get, in that order.) That fixed the warmness for the most part but now the fan clutch is active often.

I'm not going backwards to a 1 or 2 row, what I have works acceptably well, just an example of what can happen with the right conditions.

I use a 180 degree thermostat

That is sort of meaningless in terms of operating temp. For your climate, I'd probably use that too but the cooling system itself is designed to keep the "normal" operating temp at about 190-200 degrees regardless of what thermostat you have in it. 180 is simply the temp that it opens at. In hot weather, any thermostat will be open and just stay open all the time thus you have the same volume of fluid flowing through it - the initially opening just happens sooner.

I run a 180 stat in my V8 swapped truck with all that said because I feel that it allows the fans to cool the radiator sooner with 180 degree coolant rather than having to always having to cool 195+ degree coolant. It has made a big difference with low speed/high load temp spikes and it does run a big cooler on the highway as well. If I am really working it hard off road, it will still get way too hot though so I have to watch it.

 

[Paisano]

My truck will get up to 220 on the freeway in hot weather..............but much cooler like I said on secondary road at lower speed and no red lights.

 

[Shran]

220-230 is about where I start to get a bit concerned with mine. That is not boiling, so the cooling system is still working, but uncomfortably close to that point at highway speeds.

Rule of thumb I've always followed is you rely more on air being pushed through the radiator at highway speeds and at low speeds you are depending on the fan to pull air. Hot at highway speed = some sort of air flow disruption or blockage.... hot at low speeds = a fan issue.

 

[Paisano]

No blockage in the condenser or radiator (radiator leak just started this morning). I have all recent cooling system parts.

Could there be junk in the engine block coolant channels? I have NEVER back flushed cooling system. But I do regular drain and refill maintenance.

 

[Paisano]

If no objections.......I think I will replace with standard 1-core radiator.

I'm going to flush with Blue Devil first before I install the new radiator

 

[Shran]

If you have a 2 row, replace it with a 2 row, don't go with a smaller one. RockAuto parts listings don't really specify but I am guessing 1 row w/ auto trans would be a non-AC truck, 2 row w/ auto would be for AC. I realize that your AC doesn't work but don't let that be the determining factor here.

 

[Paisano]

Oh......All this time I thought I had the single row radiator. I might be wrong.
How do I tell for sure which radiator I have? Should I measure the thickness......or post a pic?

I don't want to delay too long on ordering the new radiator.

 

[Shran]

Pull the cap off and look inside. You may have to drain some coolant out to see this but there will be horizontal tubes visible, the run the width of the radiator. If you can see two side by side, you have a two row.... only one = 1 row, so on & so forth.

 

[Paisano]

Ok. I will do that.
I think width measurement will tell also.

I'll have to respond tonight after work.