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The Punisher


Punisher

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2007
Messages
68
City
Missouri
Vehicle Year
1988 Bronco II,
Transmission
Automatic
Owner: Jason Raney

Hometown: Doniphan MO

Rig: 1988 BroncoII

Up to date specs: 88' B2, chopped top, dovetailed bed, strecthed wheelbase to 115", coils and fourlinked front and rear, rockwells, welded, custom double beadlock wheels, full 4wheel hydro steering, 44" TSL's in front, 44"Boggers in rear, EFI357, Built C6, NP203/205 Doubler, with triple sticks.






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This rig started out as a Trail/Mud truck, the ideal was to have something capable of playing at the local mud runs but be flexable enought to wrok good on rough trails and a little rock crawling too.


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I started out by stripping the truck to a bare frame, and started boxing it for strength, and replacing all the stock crossmembers with stronger ones. I made coil towers for the front and the rear, and made a wishbone for the rear and extended the radius arms in the front.


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I had a EFI 351 from a 92'Ford truck built and bored with new heads, it was mated to a NP435, 4speed, then to an NP205 transfer, I used a hp D44 and 9" rear from a 79' Ford F150 for the axles. I installed 5.13's in the axles and welded the rearend and put a full spool in the front, all the breaings seals, ball joints and brakes were replaced with new equp. Then a set of 38.5x15x15 boggers were mounted to 15x10 Mickey Thompson wheels.
The interior remained stock with just racing seats and 5 point harnesses, and the body was set back on the frame.


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After about 6 months or so of doing some mud runs and a lot of trails, I decided it was a ton more fun on the trails than in the mud and after knocking out one of the big side glasses at Southern Missouri Offroad Ranch in Seymour Mo, I decided that things weren't the way I liked em' anyway so I decided to do some major surgery on her for the winter.

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The wheel base was a little too short for the trails I was running and the raduis arms I bent and added on to weren't holding up, the panhard bar was causing problems and the James Duff front coils wouldn't stay straight at all, I had them bent so far out of shape they looked like they had been used as one of thos kiddie things at the park that you bounce around on, except with a 500lb man on them.

So I did the only thing any body with sense would...... I cut her up!
First went the back cab half, then I took 16" out of the floor of the remaining bed and doved the rear body.

Next was the wheelbase issue I needed longer and I needed a little bit lower gear ratio than the 5.13's for when I was wanting to crawl. So I ordered a doubler kit from offroad design and put an NP203 in front of my 205 with triple sticks. That made my driveshaft angle in the front a whole lot better but worse in the rear. I also did away with the panhard bar and the F'd up radius arms and four linked the frontend.

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I wanted to get my approach angle better too so I wanted to move the frontend forward and get my big winch bumper and winch tucked back further. I moved the front forwards about 6" and took the radiator out so I could put the winch under the grill. When I moved the frontend foward I put on my double cylinders for the full hydo. steering, and I put in 4340 Chromoly axles with superjoints.

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I then proceeded to the rear where I moved the rearend back about 15", so I had to cut the bed side up. When I moved the fronend forward I chand the James Duff coils out for some 8" lift XJ coils, they work a lot better for my application, they hold up the heavy V8 but still flex really well.

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Since I had to cut the bedside back to improve the appearance I skinned out some longbed ranger bedsides and welded them on to the exsisting body.

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I then needed to address the radiator, since I took it out of the front I decided to put ot in the rear and make protection around it by adding on to the exo-cage I already made. Also the gas tank had taken a real beating and I put the rearend under it so when I got to much liquid courage and jumped it it would hit the tank so I installed a fuel cell and cut the floor and put it half up in the floor and half sticking out the bottom.

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Next I wanted some bar doors do I fabricated some out of tubing to go along with our CreepyCrawlers theme....... spider webs.

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I kept the original doors and I made both the bar doors and the hard doors where I could pin them on and off in about 1 min.
 
in reality a BII is not the best/easiest thing to make a crawler out of in my opinion, but thats why I did it because its different and I never have had anything that was the same as sombody else's I always liked being different.

Back to the build, here a couple of shot of the interior, basic cffroader stuff.

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After wheelin' for 2 years, I decided to go to a drastic change, the D44 with chromolys just wasnt cutting it anymore, I needed to go with bigger axles and decided to pull the 4speed out and put in a built C6.



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Ok here are some pics of my rock pans, we cut out the bottom of the rockwells and made some plates and shaved quite a bit of the bottom and gave them a lot more ground clearance. The plates are made out of 3/8" plate so that they won't give when bashing rocks.

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A little more dash and console work done.




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Oh yeah, I added a little BLING* BLING* to the triple sticks... :D




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Started working on the dash alittle more, got some paint slung!

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Got some wiring done, it got pretty busy pretty fast under that console :lol:



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Computer mounted with the starter silenoid and msd rev limiter and many wires, (this is before I tidied up a little)





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Heres the relays for all the stuff like headlights, rock lights, radiator fan and steering cooler fan.



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Cool LED's lit up and instrament cluster in and done.


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Dome light, still works with the door switch's :D


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Overhead mounted CB



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CD player in and everything just about finished on the wiring.



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Here are some pics of my NP 203/205 Doubler, got the new yokes on and had to change the seals, ofcourse, now it is ready to go back in.

Incase your wondering, YES, that thing is freaking heavy, the 203 and the 205 mated together with the shaft and billit aluminumn adaptor weighs in at 235lbs.
The C6 with the adapter mounted to it weighs 130lbs. So the transmisson and transfer cases combined weight is a wopping, back breaking, 365lbs.


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Here are a couple of pics next to a Coke can to give some respective how massive the cylinders and tube clamps are.



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Here are some more, pics of the joystick for the rear steer, the rear steer manifold valve, and the filtered resivoir. Notice the joystick is electric over hydrolic, so that it can be mounted anywhere.


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Here is my control panel and switches all ready to go in, now I just need to finish the dash :no: It has dual winch controls, toggles for all the ing., lights, fans, ect. with light up LED's when armed, and kick out breakers for each switch instead of fuses.

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Here is the shifter I am going to use, full slap ratchet shifter.

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And A teaser picture of the new double beadlock wheels.


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Here is the tubing I am useing for my four link bars, it is 2"odx1 1/4"id DOM tubing, I bet I don't bend em' :D




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Here are the joints I am going to use....thanks Shane :kewl:



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Here is another shot of the tubing used for the four link bars and a shot at the weld on joints to show their beef and size.


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Tacked on some brackets for the lower links;



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Steering mock up on the front axle. building a cage to set and protect the cheap cylinder :D



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Front axle done with mock up, cleaned and primed ready for paint and install.



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