The Lone Ranger – Kage’s ’94 X-Cab Leaf SAS and Bed Bob

[Kage]

Bronco II 23 Gallon Tank

Since wit the doubler, I cannot use the stock “coffin” tank that the rangers use. Here it is for a size reference:

I picked up a tank from Rock Auto for a fuel injected Bronco II. Fed-Ex beat the snot out of the thing before I got it, but it still showed up at my door pretty quickly.

I cleaned up the tank some and threw some rubberized undercoating on it:

After grinding off the rivets on the rear cross member, I then cut some slots in it for the fuel tank straps. I also took a guess at its mounting location:

Threw together a quick front support:

And stuck the tank in:

I liked how high up the tank was sitting, unfortunately, it was going to cause me some bed issues with the minimal body lift that I’m running. If one were to run a 3” body lift, this wouldn’t be an issue.

So back out the tanks goes, and I cut out the tacked in supports. With those out of the way, I notched the frame:

And placed the rear support back in, this time with some 1.5” spacers (the very back of the support is about 34” from the axle centerline):

Whipped up another support for the front:

And put the tank in its home:

With the tank lowered to its final height, I shouldn’t have any bed clearance issues, and my tank is still tucked up fairly high. Or at least, its not hanging any lower than it did on my Cherokee. From the lower horizontal surface (on the left hand side of the photo), the tank hangs down approximately 8”

I just need to add a skid, and get the fuel lines/power run to it now.

 

[Kage]

mine is the same front and back....

I think we're losing something here in translation.

I know they interchange.

I'm NOT looking for this Flange:

I am Looking for this Yoke:

I'm not firing on all cylinders right now, I hope this makes sense. Maybe I'm using the wrong term for it? I'm looking under "Front Yoke, Yoke, Front Output". Its just a dang 1310, yoke, shouldn't be that special

 

[Kage]

Its alive again! I got the tank plumbed today (still need to finish it off):

Since I was "testing" the fuel line extensions, and the extended wiring for the pump, I had no choice but to fire it up without an exhaust on it

Needless to say, its quite loud..

I'm debating on my next course of action right now. I have a flanged Double cardan drive shaft that I was going to use for the rear. But, the cardan has been chewed one too much (the retainer springs won't stay in place). So I either need to come up with a yoke for the rear, or bite the bullet and buy another flanged CV setup (If I can find just those parts, yuk). I'd rather find the dang yoke I need to get rid of the silly flange.

I'm also debating on whether or not to try to do a Motor mount lift with these Ruff Stuff mounts I have. I'd be nice to move everyting up 1", but those motor mouts looke like a pain to get out in their stock setup, I'm not so sure getting Dan's stuff in there will be fun (at least not on the drivers side).

More searching here I come!

 

[97fordrunner]

How did you extend the pressure line for the fuel system? One of those repair kits from the parts store?

 

[Kage]

How did you extend the pressure line for the fuel system? One of those repair kits from the parts store?

I tried the parts store repair kit (5/16 nylon, about an 18" section for $18 ) but I couldn't get the dang nylon to go over the barbs. Even after doing the boiling water trick.

So I picked up some hose barbs:

And when I went to the Junkyard, cut off some fuel line from another Extended Cab Ranger. I grabbed the long striaght section that lives in the frame rail under the cab.

Hope that helps!

 

[97fordrunner]

Yup that does help. I am probably gonna use a fuel cell and just trying to figure out how to extend the lines and you answered perfectly, thank you

 

[Kage]

Yup that does help. I am probably gonna use a fuel cell and just trying to figure out how to extend the lines and you answered perfectly, thank you

One more thing I forgot to mention:

5/16 Nylon Line is not the same as 5/16 Rubber High Pressure Fuel Line. The Rubber line is much larger in the inner diameter than the nylon so the "nylon" barbs won't work in the Rubber hose. You'd have to adapt something together to make that work.

I have seen the Nylon barbs with the AN style of fitting on one end. That would make plumbing the fuel cell fairly easy. Summit/Jegs should have something like that.

 

[97fordrunner]

Thanks I will keep that in mind and keep my eyes open for that fitting

 

[crawlin91]

I tried the parts store repair kit (5/16 nylon, about an 18" section for $18 ) but I couldn't get the dang nylon to go over the barbs. Even after doing the boiling water trick.

So I picked up some hose barbs:
And when I went to the Junkyard, cut off some fuel line from another Extended Cab Ranger. I grabbed the long striaght section that lives in the frame rail under the cab.

Hope that helps!

Funny I just went through this last week, I looked all over town for the right fuel lines and fittings, in the end I used those same 5/16" barbs and ranger junkyard fuel lines to reach the tank in the bed, it worked great, I cut the 4 wires from the donor tank harness to splice and solder into my truck as well.

I really didnt feel like tapping a new vent hole on my rear case but I was concerned about grindind into those threads. I tried three or four different types of fittings before I saw this picture. Two minutes later I am in the garage with my dremel and the fitting is threaded onto the case.


Im curious about the differences in Flange/Yoke/Spline/Sizes in these T cases as well. Does the Yoke that you are looking for have to be from a 1354? I thought I read some rangers had 1330 Ujoints? Might make a decent upgrade.

 

[Kage]

.... Two minutes later I am in the garage with my dremel and the fitting is threaded onto the case...

Glad I could help

...Im curious about the differences in Flange/Yoke/Spline/Sizes in these T cases as well. Does the Yoke that you are looking for have to be from a 1354? I thought I read some rangers had 1330 Ujoints? Might make a decent upgrade.

I've got a member that is sending me a 1354 front output yoke, once I have that in hand I'll get some measurements off of it and make a thread on it.

I do know that for the flange's, you can either run a 1330 or 1310, you just have to get the correct "bolt on yoke" for the flange you have. Again, I'll pull the measurments off what I have and make a post on that.

As for the 1330 vs. 1310 joint, I don't see there being much gain in going to the 1330 size joint. Both joints have the same cap diameter (1.0625") so you're not gaining any strength there. The only difference in the joints is the cross section measasurment (3-7/32 vs 3-5/8").

PDF to 1330/1310 Joint information

Also, with the 1310 Joint, you get a slightly larger max operating angle.

1310 = 28°
1330 = 25°
1350 = 18°

The biggest reason (IMHO) for going with the 1310 joint is that they're cheap and easy to find. In my case, if I break one on the trail, I'm likely to find a Jeep in the area that has a spare one (assuming I'm out of spares).

Another Added bonus is that the Jeep Cherokee/Wranglers used 1310 joints in their front drive shafts. So getting spare shafts to hack together for your own drive shafts just got alot cheaper.

Hope that helps!

 

[Josh40601]

I think we're losing something here in translation.

I know they interchange.

I'm NOT looking for this Flange:

I am Looking for this Yoke:

I'm not firing on all cylinders right now, I hope this makes sense. Maybe I'm using the wrong term for it? I'm looking under "Front Yoke, Yoke, Front Output". Its just a dang 1310, yoke, shouldn't be that special

got it

 

[Kage]

Stock Motor Mount Modification:

I picked this trick up somewhere, but I cannot find the original thread that I saw it in. In a nutshell, I wanted a cheap/quick way to firm up the stock mounts, and help give them a chance to survive the extra forces they’ll see form the doubler. If these wind up not working out for me, I’ll swap them out with the Ruff Stuff Mounts that I have sitting here. I’m just tired of the detail work right now, and was looking for a quick project to check off the list.

So, take your stock motor mount (mine were still tight, so I didn’t buy new ones):

Take and angle grinder to the rivet head, push the rivet remains out of their home, and slap a 3/8” bolt in its place.

Once the bolt is in place, snug it up some and either weld/secure the nut to the bolt to keep them from loosening up. The goal here is to make it a “tighter” mount than what it was with just the rivet in there. I could move my stock rivets around a good 1/32 – 1/16” when playing around with them.

EDIT:

Yeah that didn't pan out. The tired 4.0 (in 2 high never the less) managed to start pulling the bolt throught the mount, so I had to swap them out for some stock mounts. My hope is that the stock rivet has enough surface area to keep it all together as opposed to the smaller (weaker?) bolt/washer combo I had.

Bolt being pulled through:

Stock Mounts:

Edit again:

The stock mounts seem to be holding together better than my 'bolt' through ones did. However, most of the symptoms that I'm seeing are caused from steep gears I'm currently running (4:10's and 37" tires). I've got a feeling that after a regear, this problem will go away.

 

[kroussinoffroad]

im anxious to see the box back on here.

and i know the detailed work get's tiring but that is the difference between good and great.

one of my pet pieve's is wiring (namely other ppl's) i like to take my time to route as good if not better than factory. like all the wiring for my offroad light's is ran inside my front bumper. and is passed thru using gromet's all the terminal's are also inside the tube's. 95% of my wiring is unseen and up to or better than coast guard regulation's.

Keep up the great work and keep pluggin away you have a SWEET build here.

 

[NMB2]

Glad I could help




I've got a member that is sending me a 1354 front output yoke, once I have that in hand I'll get some measurements off of it and make a thread on it.

I do know that for the flange's, you can either run a 1330 or 1310, you just have to get the correct "bolt on yoke" for the flange you have. Again, I'll pull the measurments off what I have and make a post on that.

As for the 1330 vs. 1310 joint, I don't see there being much gain in going to the 1330 size joint. Both joints have the same cap diameter (1.0625") so you're not gaining any strength there. The only difference in the joints is the cross section measasurment (3-7/32 vs 3-5/8").

PDF to 1330/1310 Joint information

Also, with the 1310 Joint, you get a slightly larger max operating angle.

1310 = 28°
1330 = 25°
1350 = 18°

The biggest reason (IMHO) for going with the 1310 joint is that they're cheap and easy to find. In my case, if I break one on the trail, I'm likely to find a Jeep in the area that has a spare one (assuming I'm out of spares).

Another Added bonus is that the Jeep Cherokee/Wranglers used 1310 joints in their front drive shafts. So getting spare shafts to hack together for your own drive shafts just got alot cheaper.

Hope that helps!

1330 joints are trash. 1310's or 1350's are the only way to go.

I originally ran a 1330 on my axle side and blew it up all the time. my Dually exploded the 1330 yokes.

I swapped to a 1310 yoke on my 60 and it works much better. Now I break u-bolts instead.

Time for 1350's for me. But I have alot more power and bigger tires than you. You will be fine with 1310's.

 

[nuclassic]

1330 joints are trash. 1310's or 1350's are the only way to go.

I originally ran a 1330 on my axle side and blew it up all the time. my Dually exploded the 1330 yokes.

I swapped to a 1310 yoke on my 60 and it works much better. Now I break u-bolts instead.

Time for 1350's for me. But I have alot more power and bigger tires than you. You will be fine with 1310's.

way to sound like a complete asshole