• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

The Lone Ranger – Kage’s ’94 X-Cab Leaf SAS and Bed Bob


If you open up the clamps that hold the leafs together so that they are open on the tops the leafs will fan out more giving more droop as well. I haven't gotten around to doing that yet but I will soon...

i did that here not too long ago, deffinantly noticed it after doing so.
 
nice write-up...been looking at his kits myself for a while...

Contrary to what the internet was saying, he was very easy to get ahold of (at least he was three months ago).

PS. The 63" 2wd 3 leaf pack with the overload removed will flex juuuuuust fine the way you got it set up!

....If you open up the clamps that hold the leafs together so that they are open on the tops the leafs will fan out more giving more droop as well. I haven't gotten around to doing that yet but I will soon...

i did that here not too long ago, deffinantly noticed it after doing so.

That's a nice looking truck! And yes, the leaf clamps (Front and Rear) will probably wind up bieng opend up in the near future. :icon_thumby:
 
Well talk about a goof on my part. After stabbing the transmission back into the truck, I went to reinstall the Y pipe only to find both of my o2 sensors a bit mangled from the last removal :icon_twisted: Upon further inspection, the Y pipe isn't in as good of shape as I thought it was. So it looks like I need to pick up another one of those too. I guess I should have gone ahead and ordered those stuipd headers after all. But at least I'll have a fresh exhaust by the time i'm done :icon_rofl:

The doubler is in the truck though :icon_bounceblue: With it sitting at the "stock clocking" position, everything clears (just barely) with the 1" body lift. it also looks like the drive shafts are going to be the same lenght (about 39"). So I'll need to do some junkyard shoping here soon.

Pics!
doublerinthetruck002.jpg


doublerinthetruck003.jpg


The 1350 linkage I was going to use needs to be mofidied as it hits the transmisson when shifting through the ranges. Easy fix though:
doublerinthetruck004.jpg
 
Clocking the transfer case

Or I guess I could call this post “Pay attention to clearances”! I got the doubler put together and stuck it in the truck. Everything was looking pretty good until I tried to stick a drive shaft in it. That’s when I noticed something was a wee bit off:
Clockingthetcase002.jpg


Yup, the dang drive shaft rubs the front case with everything lined up in a “stock” position. Had I taken a second to check this on the bench, I could have saved myself a little trouble :homer:

So back out it came, and onto the bench it went:
Clockingthetcase005.jpg


Pulled it all apart, and clocked it one hole which gave me this:
Clockingthetcase008.jpg


And no, I still wasn’t smart enough to drill a hole in the shift fork to get at that one allen bolt. Next time!

Since everything was pretty darn tight before, I knew I was going to have to free up a little space. Thankfully, I didn’t have to make too much room. I trimmed out one of the support bars under the extended portion of the cab. And by trim, I mean a few cut followed by a beat the heck out of it session with the mini sledge.

Before:
Clockingthetcase006.jpg


After:
Clockingthetcase007.jpg


I also knocked off the little nub on top of the rear transfer case to give me a little more wiggle room:

Before:
Clockingthetcase009.jpg


After:
Clockingthetcase011.jpg


I then stuck the T-Case back into the truck. It looks like with a little more trimming, I’ll be able to shove the whole driveline up a little further. That’s awesome as it’ll give me a flat belly :happydance:

Cab clearance:
reclock001.jpg


T-Case hang down before the clock:
Clockingthetcase004.jpg


After the clock (it actually hangs out about 1/8” below the frame rails).
reclock002.jpg



I’m hoping the weather holds out this weekend to allow me to grab some junk yard driveshaft’s. We’re getting closer to it being able to move again!
 
:yahoo: Flat belly! That truck's going to get it!
 
Thanks everyone!

I’ve been busy spinning my wheels here lately, so no real progress photos.

Exhaust = The last of the exhaust stuff finally arrived (Y Pipe), but it was uber tweaked. That made it a royal pain to get it to line up (more wasted time). I still don’t have everything torqued to spec, but its at least on the truck.

Fuel = I’ve been playing with the Bronco II tank to get it sitting right. I’ve got a feeling I’m going to have to notch the bed some to make everything live happy. Or I need to go with more body lift to make everything happy, which I’m not too keen on that idea.

I’ve not been having much luck finding fuel line to extend the lines to the new tank either (nylon) so I’m just going to pull some lines off at the bone yard and call it good.

Drive shafts = Still need to sort this out. My OEM options aren’t looking too good at this point, so I’ll have to either pay some one to lengthen them, or do it myself. I’m not scared of extending the driveshaft’s myself, but I don’t know if I can get anyone to balance them for me afterwards. I hope to have a solid answer on this issue by tomorrow.

Brakes = I need to get my adjustable prop valve (waiting on that) and determine what brake M/C would be best. I’m running the Stock ’78 dual piston calipers in the front, and ’99 dual piston calipers in the rear (E-350). This seems to be a unique combination as my searches on here and Pirate aren’t coming up with anything. I did come across one obscure post by Allan D that makes me thing a ’91 F350 MC might be what I’m after. I’d just like to get a little more of a warm and fuzzy feeling here..

Tranny mount = It showed up with the exhaust, But the ‘new’ china-man mount acts more worn out than the old mount I pulled off. So I’m just going to build my own mount (or have a friend whip one out) and be done with it.

Bed Bob = One area with some good news. I swung by my friends house to see the progress. I must say, its looking Pimp. I just need to figure out how to get it to sit level on the frame. Worse case is to cut off the frame behind the cab and just make a new one.

The end of April is coming up way to quickly…..
 
Nice. Any progress is progress. :icon_thumby:
 
it would be cheaper for you to find some driveshafts that are too long and have them shortened...i believe its usually around $40 to have one cut down and balanced
 
looking good buddy :icon_thumby:
 
Unless you live around me, NO ONE will touch a driveshaft, you have to tell them it's a pto shaft for a tractor, and they are starting to deny work on those as well. Beside's I wouldnt trust there work anyhow. have had to deal with them for my work and there craftsmanship is very poor.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top