• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

The Lone Ranger – Kage’s ’94 X-Cab Leaf SAS and Bed Bob


how much did you guys pay for your H2's? I think i want to run them was well, only i would really like bead locks....

The Nittos/H2's and Dana 44 stuff all came in a package deal, so its hard for me to say how much I paid for them.

I did purchase a another H2 off Ebay for $75 shipped to my door.(one of the ones I had was painted black, and I didn't care for it). So they're around. They seem to pop up from time to time around $60-100 a wheel in good shape.

You can add bead locks to these, but I've read quite a bit about people having a rough time getting them to seal correctly. Personally, if I hadn't found these, I'd run recentered H1's. But I'm partial to the 2 piece rim (I don't like paying the tire guys). The 16.5 part is a bummer, but its still easy to find tires at this point.
 
Mine were $400 in minty shape... lookin for a fifth, non-chrome....
 
i just like the looks of them, thats it. I dislike the H1's because they are too plain for me. Ill see whats out there. Just trying to get an idea
 
i just like the looks of them, thats it. I dislike the H1's because they are too plain for me. Ill see whats out there. Just trying to get an idea

I can tell you this much, boring out the hole to make the H2's fit over the D60 spindles sucks. There's got to be a better way to do this other than a die grinder and a burr ( and no, I don't want to drop the money on a one time use hole saw).

Rearleaf001.jpg


Progress has been slowing down, but I’m still moving forward. I seem to be wasting a lot of time waiting/finding odd ball parts (like leaf spring bushings). I'll get a small update here in a minute.
 
Rear Leaf Mounts Final Location (Under cab)

After constructing the rear leaf mounts (Linky) it was time to get them located correctly and add some gusseting.

From the above mentioned thread, I’ve already welded up the hangers by using some ¼” plate to tie things together and set my stand off distance (1.5” from the frame, same as the stock hangers):
RearTestfit2003.jpg


For the gussets, I added two on top, and one in the front:
Rearleaf004.jpg


And one more tying in the rear
Rearleaf005.jpg


To locate these mounts, I butted them against the rear cab mounts. Going off of that as a reference point, the center of the hole is located 1.25” from the cab mount (“A”) and 2.125” from the bottom of the frame (“C”):
Untitled.jpg


This puts my axle centerline at 115” wheel base using the stock chevy 63” leaf springs.
 
Ehehehehe! It's almost a full roller! :yahoo:
 
making some good progress :icon_thumby:

can't wait to see it in person....

really wish it were done...plannin on goin to Ilake Saturday.....

l8r, John
 
Ehehehehe! It's almost a full roller! :yahoo:

Getting close!

making some good progress :icon_thumby:

can't wait to see it in person....

really wish it were done...plannin on goin to Ilake Saturday.....

l8r, John

I wish it was done too! I've got a rolling "To Do" list thats sitting around 78 more items that I need to knock out. Some of the big items being (not in order):
  1. Get the rear axle located correctly (Burn in spring perches)
  2. Doubler/clutch job (coming up quick, will probably need to make a new crossmember or two).
  3. Get the rear hangers in their final location (need the bed for that)
  4. Mount up the BII tank and do the fuel line extensions that are needed
  5. Beb Bob/Frame cutting
  6. Enlarge the H2 centers
  7. Drive Shafts
  8. Brakes (new lines, and MC)
  9. Hydro/Finish the steering
  10. Armor/Cage/bumpers
  11. About 20,000 little detail jobs....
I hope to have it running/driving again by the end of April. At that piont I'll be able to start the cage work. Unfortunately, there's a lot of little detail work that needs to be done, and that allways seems to suck more time than it should.

Have fun out at Interlake!
 
seem's that i saw online somewhere that someone was using a router to enlarge wheel center's it made very quick work of enlarging the hole's. this was back when I had my nissan hardbody so you might wanna check that out and see. prolly not the best way to do it but it look's like it work's. i never ended up doin it (found some old yota steelies) so i cant give you any first hand experience.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmpohBl0kVQ&feature=related
 
seem's that i saw online somewhere that someone was using a router to enlarge wheel center's it made very quick work of enlarging the hole's. this was back when I had my nissan hardbody so you might wanna check that out and see. prolly not the best way to do it but it look's like it work's. i never ended up doin it (found some old yota steelies) so i cant give you any first hand experience.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmpohBl0kVQ&feature=related

I like the guys sock gloves :icon_rofl:

Thanks on the router tip, unfortunately, I don't own one or know anyone that has one. So I borrowed the next best thing I could find, a "roto-zip" which is essentially just a larger version of a dremel.

I found when using this bit (2 flute endmill) I had a decent rate of material removal. But the cast alu that these wheels are made up of are extremely "gummy" so lots of WD-40 was used to help keep the bit from clogging up.
H2001.jpg


2 down, three more to go, unfortunately, I had to give the tool back tonight, so I'll have to do the fronts and the spare at a later time. I did put it back on its own weight for a bit tonight before I pulled the rear springs out to replace the trashed bushings:
H2005.jpg



In other news, my friend is sending me spy shots of my poor bed, I think I'm commmited now :icon_rofl:
loneranger4.jpg


Thanks for the comments guys!
 
im wanking it to that picture of it on all 4's
 
im wanking it to that picture of it on all 4's

Dude.....that is entirely too much information.........:icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl:

does look really good though......

l8r, John
 
look's awsome on it weight!!! so from the sy shot it look's like it musta been loud and metal must have been flyin SWEEEEEETTTTT!!!!!!!
 
one thing i find funny, is when you were looking for a base point to set the front up i almost always use the oem hanger bolts, usually using two long allthread rods to make a fixture. i was sure you would do that, and now the rear hanger setup ending up like it did adds to that.


i am quite impressed with your approach/solutions :icon_thumby:
 
Mmmmm, looks like love on wheels.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top