Well, I got more shit done on the Bronco lately.
Finally did the ECM relocation I have been trying to complete for a while now. Actually went a lot easier than I expected it to.
First off I popped out the glove box and hung it down so I could get a better view of the new ECM location directly behind the glove box up against the the outside of the heater box.
Here it is folded down and uncut.
Not the best comparo shot but here it is after the cut. I cut out approx. 2 inches of glove box with this mod. I ran a cut around the back of the glove box and then trimmed it so I could slide the back half back into the front half making it shorter so the ECM can fit behind it. Then drilled and riveted it back together. Still fully functional too, only has a little less room now.
Here's the ECM mounted in it's new location. I was even able to use the factory mounting piece to secure it to the side of the heater box behind the glovey.
Here's an inside the glove box shot, as you can see it still functions as storage space and now allows room behind it for the ECM.
Here's looking up at the new ECM location from under the dash.
Also pulled the rear drums off to re-seal the axles, install the new wheel lug studs and clean up the back brakes. So I insert the key for the cheapo locking lug nuts I have on there and the drivers side just rounds off whats left of the key pattern inside the lock with very little effort....Damn, I knew it was coming as these locking lugs suck ass to say the least. You know the kind with the key that slides into a cut out pattern on the end of the lug nut. CHEAP JUNK IMO.
Then I grabbed my largest pair of vice grips to give that a try and no go whats so ever.....FAIL.
So then I start thinking grinder. Thought about trying to cut the lug off without damaging the wheel....yeah right hey, then I thought about cutting a big slot in the end of the lug nut and using my tire iron hub cap flat blade on it when it came to me..... weld another lug nut to the top of the locking lug nut.
So out came the Lincoln.
Weld spare lug nut on top of fubard locking lug nut.
Viola!! Spun right off without issue.
Installed all 10 new lugs in the back axles, cleaned up the brakes which didn't get any oil on them btw...Lucky. Turned out the diff vent hose/breather was plugged so it made the axle seals leak to allow air in and out of the diff during heat expansion, unplugged it raised it above the bottom of the frame and the axle seals looked good to go. While I was under there I rebuilt the rear drive shaft with all new ujoints and a CV rebuild kit, greased the hell out of the slip yoke as well.
On our last wheeling run, Baldy, I ran one half door on the drivers side and left the passenger side with the full door. Turns out the passenger side elec window motor had kicked the bucket so the window would not move at all. After messing around trouble shooting the problem and live wiring the motor, I came to the conclusion the motor is fried. Just so happens the half doors mechanical window parts will fit in place of the elec window parts. Figuring this will be a lot easier to swap doors when ever I feel like it. Unfortunately the mechanisms for both elec and manual are all riveted in. Sucky, so after pulling the door panels off and grinding rivits and swapping parts, I now have a manual window on the passenger side door.
This is what both doors looked like from the inside. Drivers door pictured.
This is how the passenger door looks now, I need to make up a small filler panel to go around the window crank still, but you get the idea.
Here's all the stuff I pulled out, elec window motor, elec window mechanical components and wire harness that went into the door for the power window/power lock/elec mirror/speaker/courtesy light. My power door locks have been seized for years, there's no spot for door speakers anyways and the elec mirrors didn't swap over from the Explorer and there courtesy light was just illuminating the inside of the door when the doors where open. lol. So really I didn't need any of it in the door at this point anyways, so out it all came. What a chore to feed that harness back out of the door and all the mechanicals only fit out in one position that I had to figure out on my own, was pretty frustrating at one point haha.
Since the drivers door elec window still works, I cut the wires at the door jam and just wired it in to a trailer plug on each side of the wiring at the door jam. Now I can just unplug the wires and swap the half doors on easy as pie.
Also did a gauge install over the last few weeks as well. Decided that the factory elec tcase controls on the dash that aren't used in my application would be a great spot for a couple gauges to reside.
Factory 91 Explorer elec tcase controls, my tcase is a manual tcase and these controls aren't used.
Popped the tcase controls out of the dash mount.
Cut out and bent up a small piece of sheet metal to mount the gauges into.
Cut and shaped to fit where the tcase controls originated.
Threw some satin black on it.
Drilled both the factory bezel and the gauge mount for rivets to hold the gauge pod in the hole.
Riveted in place and ready for gauges.
Gauges installed in bezel, don't mind the actual gauges, I'm using water and oil in this set-up but was easier to use the amp and oil for mock ups.
Actually installed in the dash with the proper gauge combo I need.
I also started on welding up some broken metal on the rear body of the Bronco as well. With the old crusty body mounts that failed before I replaced them, the body took the brunt of the abusive suspension flexing. The body mounts and bushings were shot and allowing the frame to flex with the suspension and in turn worked the body untill it cracked at the bottom corners of the back door/hatch. Those of you who watched me struggle with closing the back door/hatch will attest to how poorly it works. Well I started on fixing that problem too.
This is the drivers side all welded up, just need to get the passenger side patched up and welded back together and the rear door may actually work properly again.
While the drivers side had just cracked in several directions and places, the passenger side actually had rust issues as well as cracking. I'll need to make some patch panels for this side.
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Oh and they take a little more effort to climb into than the stock seats too, but any racing seat would, that is in the design of them, you can't just slide your ass in like a stocker seat, but meh, it's all good.
