Brake line flare nut thread size/part id help

[MK667]

Hi folks, so I have a 2004 FX4 4.0. I'm doing my rear brakes right now and I was trying to get the old driver side cylinder out and I just cannot get this brake line to budge. I've used penetrating oil and heat, and that worked on the passenger side. Also this nut that threads into the back of the cylinder is complete rounded. Time for new lines. The threads size on the cylinder is 3/8-24 and it's a 7/16 head on the nut. I have 2 questions. Do any of you know the thread size for the nut that screws into that block looking thing over the rear diff? Also, what is that part over the rear diff that driver and passenger side hard lines screw into called? If i have a name i can doing some more searching. Thanks in advance.

 

[Uncle Gump]

That is not a 7/8 wrench size.

Try brakel line distribution block.

I also believe the line nuts are the same size on bothe ends.

 

[pjtoledo]

the block is part of the rubber line coming down from the frame.
search for the line, block comes attached to it.

 

[Uncle Gump]

the block is part of the rubber line coming down from the frame.
search for the line, block comes attached to it.

You are right...

 

[MK667]

That is not a 7/8 wrench size.

Try brakel line distribution block.

I also believe the line nuts are the same size on bothe ends.

Doh! You're right. It's 7/16. The other side of that flare wrench is 3/8. Got my wires crossed. The nut that goes into the wheel cylinder that is 7/16. The ones in this picture i was able to slip a 12 mm over. I think maybe they were originally 11, they just have a bunch of crud on them. I'll check distribution block. Thanks!

 

[fixizin]

Both the clip and the distribution wye/"Y" block are part of the "Rear Center brake hose" <<--(search string)... will be doing mine soon too... better view:

JUST did my rear-axle hard lines last week, and while wrench-dimensions for the bleeders were "variable" between 3/8" and 10mm (due to crud and/or rounding?), mercifully ALL the flare nuts were 3/8-24 threads (SAE) and 11mm (metric) on the wrench-hex... go figure.

 

[MK667]

View attachment 135045
Both the clip and the distribution wye/"Y" block are part of the "Rear Center brake hose" <<--(search string)... will be doing mine soon too... better view:

View attachment 135046

JUST did my rear-axle hard lines last week, and while wrench-dimensions for the bleeders were "variable" between 3/8" and 10mm (due to crud and/or rounding?), mercifully ALL the flare nuts were 3/8-24 threads (SAE) and 11mm (metric) on the wrench-hex... go figure.

Many thanks for the info dude. I called 2 ford dealerships today and asked the parts dudes if they knew the thread on those nuts and no dice. I'm seeing some 3/16 Nicopp, Inverted flare, 3/8-24 thread, 40" piece for 17 bucks. I measured approx 32" on my passenger side line. Did you do your own flares or did you buy a pre made one? I think it'd be kind of fun to try flaring, but i'm strapped for time and money.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Be careful... the cheap stuff on Amazon sure looks to be more copper then nickel.

I just bought an entire roll... I live in the rust belt and I'm sure it will get used.

NiCopp is pretty easy to work with.

I sent that Amazon roll back and bought the NiCopp local. You can see the difference in the cheap stuff by the color.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Flaring is easy, you just have to make sure you make a nice square cut and de-burr the line. I think Autozone still does the loaner flaring tool. I started out with one of those and a coil of brake line (back then steel line was all you could get and it was like $14 for a coil of line and a pack of like 5 or 10 steel flare nuts). I’ve upgraded to a lever style flaring tool since then and ni-copper line with stainless nuts. Big step up.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Be careful... the cheap stuff on Amazon sure looks to be more copper then nickel.

I just bought an entire roll... I live in the rust belt and I'm sure it will get used.

NiCopp is pretty easy to work with.

View attachment 135053

I sent that Amazon roll back and bought the NiCopp local. You can see the difference in the cheap stuff by the color.

The cheap stuff is often copper coated steel, and it is magnetic. Real NiCopp is non-magnetic.

 

[Uncle Gump]

The cheap stuff is often copper coated steel, and it is magnetic. Real NiCopp is non-magnetic.

Well whatever it was... I didn't trust it.

I always used steel but the NiCopp got talked up here and tried it. I will say its easier to work with... flares easy. Maybe too easy... time will tell I suppose.

 

[fixizin]

Many thanks for the info dude. I called 2 ford dealerships today and asked the parts dudes if they knew the thread on those nuts and no dice. I'm seeing some 3/16 Nicopp, Inverted flare, 3/8-24 thread, 40" piece for 17 bucks. I measured approx 32" on my passenger side line. Did you do your own flares or did you buy a pre made one? I think it'd be kind of fun to try flaring, but i'm strapped for time and money.

All 4 flares on those rear-wheel brake lines should be 3/8-24 "fine" threads, but the nut size might vary--take several wrenches, lol.

I too was strapped for time and sprung for very nice pre-bent pre-flared STAINLESS steel lines, but with taxes and fast shipping, it came to $105(!) for both lines. If strapped for time you could probably make that $17 tube work, the extra 8" could easily be bent to be out of the way. Then at your leisure you could learn flaring and make up some neater more tailored lines later.

I only want to drain/bleed the system one more time, so I plan to replace all 3 rubber hoses, and the long hard line, (and possibly the drum brake components) at the same time (front rotors and pads done not too long ago). GOOD LUCK! Please report back--it adds to the pool of know-how.

 

[fixizin]

Well whatever it was... I didn't trust it.

I always used steel but the NiCopp got talked up here and tried it. I will say its easier to work with... flares easy. Maybe too easy... time will tell I suppose.

I do note that the "good stuff" you bought local has an SAE 1650 spec on the label, but doesn't brake line have to be DOUBLE-WALL, and have some kind of DOT rating also?

 

[Uncle Gump]

I do note that the "good stuff" you bought local has an SAE 1650 spec on the label, but doesn't brake line have to be DOUBLE-WALL, and have some kind of DOT rating also?

I'm not sure on the DOT rating.

That NIiCopp is double walled and meets that SAE spec for use in automotive applications.

Probably important to note that brake lines require a double flared... not single flared.