switching to a thicker oil? and some preformance mods?

[--weezl--]

you don't have to ditch the 2000$ paper mache dinosaur you put on the hood either, but whether or not you do is irreverent...

all we are saying, it will do less good for your engine, more harm, and cause more maintenance in the long run, if you choose to continue running it, that's your choice

 

[rangers92]

thank you. im just asking you guys here becuase you are older and have long term exsperence. i think imma try to sell my k&n and stick with fram tough gaurd paper filters. either way thankyou guys for your help time and answers.

 

[--weezl--]

used k&n's are probably about $20... i'm not saying remove it, i'm just saying if i were given one, i wouldn't bother using it... i don't like them at all...

this of course is my OPINION of them...

 

[YellowRanger95]

I had a K&N in mine for almost 20k miles up until 20 minutes ago. Saw your posts, went downstairs to check mine out and was glad to see that it looked like it was working well filtering, ran my hand along the inside of the filter and immediately threw the K&N in the garbage, drove to NAPA without a filter and bought a Fram...

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Change the PCV regularly will help from oil getting in the air filter and reset the computer every time you clean/change a sensor. I dont imagine running 5w30 will hurt much but full synthetic will improve performance as long as the engine is holding oil sync will make a small leak not so small. If your oil pressure is good with 5w20 no need to change especially with winter coming up use a good oil filter (motorcraft).

 

[--weezl--]

Change the PCV regularly will help from oil getting in the air filter and reset the computer every time you clean/change a sensor. I dont imagine running 5w30 will hurt much but full synthetic will improve performance as long as the engine is holding oil sync will make a small leak not so small. If your oil pressure is good with 5w20 no need to change especially with winter coming up use a good oil filter (motorcraft).

you are dumb, please don't recommend anything to people again... PCV has nothing to do with oil from an oil bath air filter, which is what we are talking about... and don't ever run oil on a motor with low(er) miles, other than the recommeneded oil for the motor, if it says 5-20, ****ing run 5-20... do NOT run 5-30, it is not the same and should not be thought of as anything but different than the same!!!!




as for the k/n filter, read this, if you know how to read graphs, this will answer all of your questions:
http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrolet-diesel-tech-articles/16611-duramax-air-filter-testing.html

 

[kimcrwbr1]

weezie he already said he put 5w30 in the engine and i recommended the 5w20 with a good filter the pcv is for both blowby and performance the blowby will get on the IAT/MAF. You can put back in your pants now. I say change the PCV with plugs and plug wires every other time you change the plugs.

 

[--weezl--]

if you're getting oil in the intake from the PCV, then you have major engine issues... blowby GASSES are what the PCV removes, additionally, it removes it fromt he crank case, and puts the gasses back into the intake, right before the heads, so the intake tube, and throttle body never see crank case gasses...

and as for the 5-20 vs 5-30 debate, the oils are really not interchangeable... if your motor needs 5-30, and you put 5-20 in, it's not as thick as it should be to run, even though the pump may pump it at the right pressure, it will cause premature wear on the engine, conversely, if the engine calls for 5-20 and you put 5-30 in, again the oil pump will pump it just fine, but the thicker oil will not seep into the smaller clearance bearings and such, causing very much the same problem as above, premature wear and at the end, engine failure earlier than the engine SHOULD last...

this all should be taken with a grain of salt, as driving habits make a big impact on life of an engine also, but in a "granny driven" vehicle, the engine with the wrong oil will show more wear than the other... there's a reason ford says "this is the oil to use in this motor"

the only exceptions to the "run this" rule, is if it is a higher mileage engine... i used to run 20-50 in my mustang, because the motor had 220,000 km on it, which is 137,500 miles and i still took it to the track, everything was a little sloppier than factory, and the engine could deal with the thicker oil... i would NEVER run thinner oil in an engine than what is recommended, with the exception of 1 thing, the starting weight... you can get 0w-30 oils made by some synthetic companies, this would only be used, in my opinion in climates like the one i live in, which goes from -40 one day, to +10 the next, the weather has been known to change from -25 to +18 celcius in a few short hours... at -40 nothing wants to run, when i start my truck up in the morning, i can hear the oil bypass, when i have the block heater on, and running 5-30... in that case, yeah, 0-30 would be better...

 

[locovaca]

and as for the 5-20 vs 5-30 debate, the oils are really not interchangeable... if your motor needs 5-30, and you put 5-20 in, it's not as thick as it should be to run, even though the pump may pump it at the right pressure, it will cause premature wear on the engine, conversely, if the engine calls for 5-20 and you put 5-30 in, again the oil pump will pump it just fine, but the thicker oil will not seep into the smaller clearance bearings and such, causing very much the same problem as above, premature wear and at the end, engine failure earlier than the engine SHOULD last...

Except that Ford backspec'd 5W-20 to a bunch of engines "designed" for 5W-30 to more or less make their lives easier and not due to any mechanical concerns. They had no issues switching between the two. Additionally, the difference is not as big as you might think after you get 1000-2000 miles on an oil and the viscosity modifiers start to wear down.

 

[captaingeek]

im pretty happy with my K&N. noticable puch and you can hear it allow more airflow. check it out.

 

[philofab]

Hmmm. I run 20w-50 in all my vehicles, and have had no engine failures. My ranger has 295,000 miles on the original 4.0.

I am curious to how much a thicker oil actually decreases mileage vs increases engine life.

 

[--weezl--]

Hmmm. I run 20w-50 in all my vehicles, and have had no engine failures. My ranger has 295,000 miles on the original 4.0.

I am curious to how much a thicker oil actually decreases mileage vs increases engine life.

honestly, i don't think you'll notice much in the way of mileage, the resistance would be comperable to a headwind... though i DO believe on a new engine the wear would be considerable... on a worn engine, the one with 295,000 you couldn't do anything better than run 20-50 in it!

if you were to take a motor designed to run on 5-20, and put 20-50 into it, it would essentially wear it to the point where 20-50 would be the correct oil for the clearances that it has, it will take a while for it to happen, but it will be significantly accelerated... say for instance, (random numbers, don't quote me on this) if your 5-20 engine was stepped up slowly from 5-20, to 5-30 to 10-30 to 15-40 to 20-50 as the engine wears, your motor would be "ready" for 20 50 at... 100,000 miles, and you went straight from 5-20 to 20-50 at 10 miles on the truck at say 10,000 miles, your truck would show 100,000 miles of wear...

if you want the motor to last as long as possible, you should be stepping the thickness of the oil up slowly as the engine wears... at what time you change the oil weight is largely debatable, and really anyone who claims they know is full of crap, the only person who i would really trust (other than myself and my gut) to ACTUALLY know what it the perfect oil weight is, would be an engineer who has taken apart my motor and measured EVERY bearing and oil galley with a micrometer and where applicable, plastigauge

 

[pillen140]

Weezl, when you said "you are dumb" Idk why, but I read it in the voice of that guy that says "hide yo wife hide yo kids" lol. Tried to rep but wouldn't let me. I don't know what a pcv has to do with a k&n, I think he made a mistake but was afraid to stand corrected. Anywho, I run a k&n drop in when I am, or when I plan to go off road, it doesn't add any power! Only use it because I can wash it after it gets all nasty and clogged with dust and mud and other debris and a few times they've gotten wet. Got sick of paying $20+ dollars in air filters every time I went on a really dust trail. I use a paper filter the majority of the time. If you don't over oil a k&n, they are ok, but still not as good as a paper filter. The only thing I would change about your post is runnign without a filter is better than a k+n, because most normal people know what you mean about the oil making dirt stick, and used that to get your point across, some not so mechanically inclined run to napa without an air filter, lol I .

 

[philofab]

honestly, i don't think you'll notice much in the way of mileage, the resistance would be comperable to a headwind... though i DO believe on a new engine the wear would be considerable... on a worn engine, the one with 295,000 you couldn't do anything better than run 20-50 in it!

if you were to take a motor designed to run on 5-20, and put 20-50 into it, it would essentially wear it to the point where 20-50 would be the correct oil for the clearances that it has, it will take a while for it to happen, but it will be significantly accelerated... say for instance, (random numbers, don't quote me on this) if your 5-20 engine was stepped up slowly from 5-20, to 5-30 to 10-30 to 15-40 to 20-50 as the engine wears, your motor would be "ready" for 20 50 at... 100,000 miles, and you went straight from 5-20 to 20-50 at 10 miles on the truck at say 10,000 miles, your truck would show 100,000 miles of wear...

if you want the motor to last as long as possible, you should be stepping the thickness of the oil up slowly as the engine wears... at what time you change the oil weight is largely debatable, and really anyone who claims they know is full of crap, the only person who i would really trust (other than myself and my gut) to ACTUALLY know what it the perfect oil weight is, would be an engineer who has taken apart my motor and measured EVERY bearing and oil galley with a micrometer and where applicable, plastigauge

Hmm. All my friends that build engines swear by 20-50 also. Even during break in. They built the nasty odd fire beast the ranger below.

Something that needs to be mentioned is that I live in an area that reaches 130F in the summer time. Thicker oil is the way to go here.

 

[pillen140]

That, and that's a race engine lol, we run 20-50 in our late models and modifieds. If your gonna run 8000-9000rpm for a couple hours in 100 degree weather, you pretty much have too