Swapping in a manual transmission m50d in place of the automatic 4r44e

[I support common sense]

Hello everyone, looking for some information. No one responded to my previous thread so I thought I would repost it because I was able to repair my transmission and make it work. However, I would still like to swap in for a manual. I have a 1999 ford ranger 3.0l xlt super cab 2wd. It has a 4r44e transmission, and I would like to replace it with a m50d. Looking for any advice or even parts, preferably a whole vehicle.

I do some pulling with this truck around 2,500 pounds I’m guesstimating, so I would like to upgrade to a 4.0l with an m50d-r1”hd” which I understand only fits the 4.0l. So, if I could do an engine swap that would be great too, however I’ll settle for any transmission preferably manual that fits the 3.0 and doesn’t require fabrication but is more heavy duty than what I’ve got. I’m on a tight budget.

 

[SenorNoob]

Didn't the tow rating go DOWN with the manual for all Rangers?

 

[I support common sense]

Didn't the tow rating go DOWN with the manual for all Rangers?

Looking at my owners manual, it does appear that the tow rating went down by a considerable amount, and I’m not sure why as I was told that the manual was much stronger and better for towing. I’ve attached pictures of this in the manual, my truck is a super cab. I think the reason for the drop is because of the clutch, the torque converter being better for towing maybe?

 

[I support common sense]

So, if that is so. I understand the HD version supports up to 5,000 pounds, So if I were to get a 2001-2011 ford ranger for parts and swap the engine and transmission assuming it was the 4.0 it would come with the HD version?

 

[SenorNoob]

I've heard the theory that it was de-rated for bad drivers. Myself I think it's because the Auto has a MUCH easier time starting from 0MPH by slipping in the torque converter, and that possibly the sun/planetary gear arrangement is inherently stronger for a given size.

I've long wanted to try building a "hybrid" transmission from an automatic. Think clutch pedal controlling EPC solenoid and torque convert lockup (for lockup in every gear) and an arcade style shifter to select gears. Seems like something simple enough that even I could program it.

 

[I support common sense]

I've heard the theory that it was de-rated for bad drivers. Myself I think it's because the Auto has a MUCH easier time starting from 0MPH by slipping in the torque converter, and that possibly the sun/planetary gear arrangement is inherently stronger for a given size.

I've long wanted to try building a "hybrid" transmission from an automatic. Think clutch pedal controlling EPC solenoid and torque convert lockup (for lockup in every gear) and an arcade style shifter to select gears. Seems like something simple enough that even I could program it.

You’re saying you would be manually controlling an automatic transmission? That does sound neat, but it just isn’t nostalgic enough for me.

 

[SenorNoob]

That's be the idea...

I'm not sure how practical it'd be. But considering the 5r55e is 5 gears just like the manual it'd be a fun experiment. Sure would confuse some people.

 

[I support common sense]

Well, I’m still looking for any information on how to do the swap and things I should know before I do it, so if anyone wants to offer their advice whether it be good or not it’s probably more than I know.

 

[SenorNoob]

Since the 3.0 manual is rated for what you say you'll be hauling, I'd stick there. A manual swap is fairly easy. Adding an engine swap opens a whole 'nother can of worms. If you're willing to live with a CEL, bolt in and go. IDK what it'd take to swap to manual computer on a 99. (Is PATS a problem?)

I suppose if you could find a running/driving 99 (maybe 98 or 00) 4.0 M5OD truck with severe body damage it might be worth it...

The engine swap would require moving pretty much everything that touches a wire from one truck to another. At least under the hood and to the transmission.

 

[I support common sense]

I had forgotten about “PATS” as my vehicle does have that and requires special programmed keys. However I was convinced that a 3.0 to 4.0 was mostly plug and play so long as you replaced the mounts, pcm, and wiring harnesses over to the ones from the 4.0 vehicle.

 

[don4331]

Just be be clear here:

There are 2 - 4.0 M5OD-R1 transmissions: The OHV and the HD for the SOHC. Both have the same 3.40:1 1st gear; the HD just has an extra bolt hole for the SOHC.

Putting 4.0 gears into 3.0 case would lower your towing limits - 3.40:1 vs 3.72:1 1st gear.

Manual transmissions have lower towing rating because:

a. You can smoke the clutch slipping it too often in stop/go traffic​

b. The truck can roll back if you aren't fast/coordinated enough off clutch & brake/on gas going up hill.​

c. Accidentally (or otherwise) having the truck get into neutral going downhill - not taking advantage of engine braking (Ranger brakes fade during 120-0 km/h stops with truck empty, using engine braking).​

d. The OD gears aren't strong enough to use 5th towing (On automatics <4R44E/4R55E,5R55E&5R55E>, you have the button on the shifter to disengage OD when towing).* Disabling OD also prevents engine from lugging when towing. In order to get OD, Mazda had to put in very fine teeth on the gears, not good for strength. There is no way to prevent using OD in manual.**​

Converting over is plug and play if you change:

the mounts,​

'98-'00 works the easiest; you really want to stick with '98-'00 modules/wiring​

PCM and PATS module​

wiring harnesses (engine control, starting and transmission)​

fuel line and​

engine & transmission ('98-'11 engines/transmissions can be made work with appropriate wiring; '98-'03 Explorer Sport with manual gets you SOHC with GEM/PATS which would be the best "stock" swap)​

*S-10s, with T-5 transmissions, are even worse for issues with stripping OD gears when towing. They will do it behind the I-4 (OK, I was beyond the V-6/auto limit. But I assumed the reason was GMC thought I couldn't operate a clutch correctly, not the transmission was going to spit teeth...)
** Actually manufacturers can/have "fixed" their issues with manuals. They can tell by monitoring engine/transmission output speeds which gear you are in and limit power when in 1st/2nd/OD. The computer/programming just wasn't up to it in '99.

 

[I support common sense]

Manual transmissions have lower towing rating because:

a. You can smoke the clutch slipping it too often in stop/go traffic​

b. The truck can roll back if you aren't fast/coordinated enough off clutch & brake/on gas going up hill.​

c. Accidentally (or otherwise) having the truck get into neutral going downhill - not taking advantage of engine braking (Ranger brakes fade during 120-0 km/h stops with truck empty, using engine braking).​

d. The OD gears aren't strong enough to use 5th towing (On automatics <4R44E/4R55E,5R55E&5R55E>, you have the button on the shifter to disengage OD when towing).* Disabling OD also prevents engine from lugging when towing. In order to get OD, Mazda had to put in very fine teeth on the gears, not good for strength. There is no way to prevent using OD in manual.**​

Thank you for your reply. Never driven a stick shift in my life(my dad used to let me shift when I was younger and he would do all the clutching and braking), so I can understand most of the issues, but I don’t doubt for a second that I am up for the task and pulling a trailer isn’t going to scare me out of it. I don’t understand how, “There is no way to prevent using OD in manual.” Seems to me it’s even more simple than hitting a button, you just don’t ever shift into it in the first place. That’s my biggest problem with the automatic transmission. Second, could I get a heavier duty clutch? Obviously semi trucker pull pretty heavy loads and I’m sure their gear ratios are different, but most of those are manuals with eighteen speed transmissions.

I would not be placing a 4.0 manual on a 3.0 engine, I would be swapping it with a 4.0,(besides, I thought the bell housing for those were cast with the case?) but I’m no longer sure I will. I’d like to keep researching and waiting it out a little and see if I can find the right donor vehicle. Would it be better to swap in a 5r55e?

 

[don4331]

I don’t understand how, “There is no way to prevent using OD in manual.” Seems to me it’s even more simple than hitting a button, you just don’t ever shift into it in the first place. That’s my biggest problem with the automatic transmission. Second, could I get a heavier duty clutch?

Ford can't stop you from using OD in manual. It is all in the hands (pun intended) of the nut behind the wheel. (I include myself in that). There wasn't a placard on the visor, and who reads the owner's manual anyways...that warned me not to use OD when towing.

Obviously semi trucker pull pretty heavy loads and I’m sure their gear ratios are different, but most of those are manuals with eighteen speed transmissions.

Actually a lot of the class 8 trucks (semis) are going to automatics. People don't know how to shift manuals before they get into a big truck, so it's one less thing to have to teach. It also reduces drivetrain damage due to bad shifting.

I would not be placing a 4.0 manual on a 3.0 engine, I would be swapping it with a 4.0,(besides, I thought the bell housing for those were cast with the case?) but I’m no longer sure I will. I’d like to keep researching and waiting it out a little and see if I can find the right donor vehicle. Would it be better to swap in a 5r55e?

I was referring to 4.0 transmission guts into 3.0 case.
You are correct, the cases are unique between Cologne <4.0> and Vulcan <3.0>.

A shift kit is probably cheaper, easier and "stronger" than swapping to 5R55E. Of course, shift kit in 5R55E is better still.

Adding additional transmission oil cooling is good idea too.

 

[I support common sense]

Ok, I have a stock transmission cooler, is that not enough? I am looking to get a transmission temp gauge. How difficult is it to add a shift kit? Does that require rebuilding the transmission? My transmission was rebuilt by jasper sometime ago, I’m not sure when but probably before 2012, and it wasn’t driven much after 2012. That being said, perhaps they put in better components then the stock ones.

 

[NakedDucks]

I have 98% of the parts you need if you wanna cruise down to B’ham AL to get them.