sub with jumper seats

[baxtej44]

To get your wiring into the box PICK A WINNER , 1cf should be close for most 12s, mine needs .8cf. I can't understand the rest of what you’re asking but I'd not build the box till you have the sub in your hands.

Do the connectors really matter that much? Should I look for gold plated? And does location matter?

I was asking if I should put the cup in, and attach the wires on the inside and have the wires sticking out of the hole that was cut out for the sub, hook them up to the sub, then sit the sub down in the hole, screw in, and go?

wow alot has gone one since i left lol.... first the book shelf speakers..........yea........second 1 CF for one 12 is a pretty good number,


porting- to port a box to specs you have too;
1 build the box to the right size,
2 have the dia or the size correct,
3 that the length of the port right, (its not just a hole) that tube is a certain length for a reason.
4 some times they want the hole 90deg from the sub, or on the same side as the face or the sub ect

i think i will just go sealed, i don't think I have enough room for a ported box unless i'm doin like an 8 lol.. and i want some deeper bass than that.


and i am not going to build the box before i have the sub, just trying to figure out how to be able to know what the max mounting depth can be.

 

[flyingbrick]

Do the connectors really matter that much? Should I look for gold plated? And does location matter?

I was asking if I should put the cup in, and attach the wires on the inside and have the wires sticking out of the hole that was cut out for the sub, hook them up to the sub, then sit the sub down in the hole, screw in, and go?

No the connectors don't matter that much they can be gold, silver or Brazilian monkey blood dipped, it dose not matter cause it's just a selling point.
Local, nope you can put it anywhere just make sure it seals.

Yeah you can hookup your sub how ever you want, i normally attach my leads to the cup install cup, mount box then wire sub and bolt up.

 

[baxtej44]

No the connectors don't matter that much they can be gold, silver or Brazilian monkey blood dipped, it dose not matter cause it's just a selling point.
Local, nope you can put it anywhere just make sure it seals.

Yeah you can hookup your sub how ever you want, i normally attach my leads to the cup install cup, mount box then wire sub and bolt up.

so what gauge wire it accepts doesn't much matter? the ones i've mostly seen is up to 8gauge wire.... what is suggested to run? all the cables i will need

sounds good, working on designing the sub with actual three dimensions on sketchup right now

i really like this program ya know?

 

[flyingbrick]

so what gauge wire it accepts doesn't much matter? the ones i've mostly seen is up to 8gauge wire.... what is suggested to run? all the cables i will need

sounds good, working on designing the sub with actual three dimensions on sketchup right now

i really like this program ya know?

What it accepts does not matter too much as long as it can take min of 14gauge, I ran 12 gauge for my sub. For powering the amp that can start a great debate, if your running up to 350W RMS I'd run 8, more then that 4, unless your amp only takes 8.

I've never used any kind of program like that I'm old school, paper and a geometry set.

You can always play with this. http://www.streetwires.com/products/wireGaugeCalculator.aspx

 

[baxtej44]

What it accepts does not matter too much as long as it can take min of 14gauge, I ran 12 gauge for my sub. For powering the amp that can start a great debate, if your running up to 350W RMS I'd run 8, more then that 4, unless your amp only takes 8.

I've never used any kind of program like that I'm old school, paper and a geometry set.

You can always play with this. http://www.streetwires.com/products/wireGaugeCalculator.aspx

so you're saying between 0-350w rms of the sub or amp? i assume the amp since that's obviously what is pushing.

also, do i need to do different sized wiring from the battery to amp, amp the sub, power on wire from HU?



this is actually a 3d version, with the thickness of the 3/4" mdf factored in. final dimensions are 40" wide, 13" tall, top depth of 4", bottom depth of 7", the "face" is 13 11/32" long, 12" sub cutout.

is the placement of boards okay on this?
how the front and back are sandwiching the others inside?

i'm going to use wood blocks in all of the corners to brace, is that okay?
or should I do a whole piece of wood or some other type of internal brace?

 

[flyingbrick]

so you're saying between 0-350w rms of the sub or amp? i assume the amp since that's obviously what is pushing.

also, do i need to do different sized wiring from the battery to amp, amp the sub, power on wire from HU?

this is actually a 3d version, with the thickness of the 3/4" mdf factored in. final dimensions are 40" wide, 13" tall, top depth of 4", bottom depth of 7", the "face" is 13 11/32" long, 12" sub cutout.

is the placement of boards okay on this?
how the front and back are sandwiching the others inside?

i'm going to use wood blocks in all of the corners to brace, is that okay?
or should I do a whole piece of wood or some other type of internal brace?

The 350W is at the amp to figure out power wire size, that is from battery to amp, min of 8 gauge, amp to the sub box/inside box the I'd get some 12 gauge AUTOMOTIVE GRADE speaker wire.

For power wire from head unit, do you mean the patch cables (RCA's) or the remote turn on?
-remote turn on *should* either come with your patch cables or amp wiring kit, if it does not just run a 16 gauge or so wire with your patch cables
-patch cables (RCA's) you'll have to measure to fine what you length you need, again get AUTOMOTIVE GRADE patch cables i use Street-Wire brand go with your hart on this its not too big of a deal on a sub.

placement of boards on the sub box let your hart and saw lead the way, there is no right or wrong way to do it.

If you build it in the way you have pictured you should not need bracing, as you'll screw the sides, top, and bottom on before the front.
Internally bracing for one 12", unless your planing on a 1000W RMS sub you don't need it.

 

[baxtej44]

The 350W is at the amp to figure out power wire size, that is from battery to amp, min of 8 gauge, amp to the sub box/inside box the I'd get some 12 gauge AUTOMOTIVE GRADE speaker wire.

For power wire from head unit, do you mean the patch cables (RCA's) or the remote turn on?
-remote turn on *should* either come with your patch cables or amp wiring kit, if it does not just run a 16 gauge or so wire with your patch cables
-patch cables (RCA's) you'll have to measure to fine what you length you need, again get AUTOMOTIVE GRADE patch cables i use Street-Wire brand go with your hart on this its not too big of a deal on a sub.

placement of boards on the sub box let your hart and saw lead the way, there is no right or wrong way to do it.

If you build it in the way you have pictured you should not need bracing, as you'll screw the sides, top, and bottom on before the front.
Internally bracing for one 12", unless your planing on a 1000W RMS sub you don't need it.

i meant the remote turn on, and okay i didn't know it usually came with an amp wiring kit.


basically for this entire thing i will need:
ground wire (amp kit)
battery to amp (with inline fuse... amp kit)
amp to sub (amp kit?)
turn on (amp kit)
HU to sub (basic cheap RCA?)


also, on all of these i want as little wire as possible right? and by little i mean the least amount of distance? also I know to run my battery->amp wire on one side, and HU to sub on the other side right? Can I just peel up the carpet by the doors and run it under there on both respective sides?

How do I run from my battery to my amp, and is there just a sub hookup on my HU?




sorry for all the questions, i'm a complete noob, and hopefully i'll only have to learn this once lol.



THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP EVERYBODY! i can't say this enough

 

[4x4fun]

basically for this entire thing i will need:
ground wire (amp kit)
battery to amp (with inline fuse... amp kit)
amp to sub (amp kit?)
turn on (amp kit)
HU to sub (basic cheap RCA?)

some dont come with speaker wire double check

also, on all of these i want as little wire as possible right? and by little i mean the least amount of distance? also I know to run my battery->amp wire on one side, and HU to sub on the other side right? Can I just peel up the carpet by the doors and run it under there on both respective sides?

yes

How do I run from my battery to my amp, and is there just a sub hookup on my HU?

for the power wire= one side is all set up with the fuse and end terminal. take the other side and ram it thru the fire wall. and pull it all thur, except what you need so you can hook it to the battery and run your power wire. and cut off extra and put your carpet back down.

for the HU= the wire that goes to from the HU to the sub are rca's just make sure your HU has rca outs and your all good.

 

[baxtej44]

some dont come with speaker wire double check



yes



for the power wire= one side is all set up with the fuse and end terminal. take the other side and ram it thru the fire wall. and pull it all thur, except what you need so you can hook it to the battery and run your power wire. and cut off extra and put your carpet back down.

for the HU= the wire that goes to from the HU to the sub are rca's just make sure your HU has rca outs and your all good.

my HU is a sony xplod cdx 510x

I can't find anything online about it, it's probably discontinued or something. BDAY present from somebody else, so I don't have like manual or anything

I suppose I could take apart part of my dash again to find out if it has RCA outs, but idk what those look like.. so i'd need a description, but preferably I just want to find out online lol.

 

[flyingbrick]

Because it is an aftermarket deck I'd think it has sub pre-outs, if you can't find anything on line go out and play with the settings, you should be able to find a sub/rear out switch setting somewhere in there.

*just for reference*
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Photos/Default.aspx?i=130DEH11E&g=300
Go to the rear shot, the red and white circles are your pre-outs.

 

[baxtej44]

Because it is an aftermarket deck I'd think it has sub pre-outs, if you can't find anything on line go out and play with the settings, you should be able to find a sub/rear out switch setting somewhere in there.

*just for reference*
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Photos/Default.aspx?i=130DEH11E&g=300
Go to the rear shot, the red and white circles are your pre-outs.

i've looked around on the settings alot, only thing i can think of is fading it to front or back, left or right, raising/lowering lows/mids/highs, and different EQ's

i might just take it out to look... because I really don't even know how old this thing is. if i have to get a new deck, i'll get it first, and the sub/amp will be put on hold for a bit longer.

 

[flyingbrick]

i've looked around on the settings alot, only thing i can think of is fading it to front or back, left or right, raising/lowering lows/mids/highs, and different EQ's

i might just take it out to look... because I really don't even know how old this thing is. if i have to get a new deck, i'll get it first, and the sub/amp will be put on hold for a bit longer.

Sony's are a pain in the a** to navigate, but IIRC it might be like a Pioneer and to get into the sub/rear setting the unit has to be turned off.

 

[baxtej44]

Sony's are a pain in the a** to navigate, but IIRC it might be like a Pioneer and to get into the sub/rear setting the unit has to be turned off.

weird, but none of my buttons work with the power off? I will try anyway though, I will try pressing a few different buttons this morning

I will try with the truck off completely, and then with the truck on just the power button pressed to off.

 

[4x4fun]

according to this you do have sub outs

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-CDX-GT510-Radio-player-dash/dp/B000JPKZ7Y?tag=959media-20

 

[baxtej44]

according to this you do have sub outs

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-CDX-GT510-Radio-player-dash/dp/B000JPKZ7Y?tag=959media-20

my HU looks different than that... so idk.

I tried pressing all the buttons i could, couldn't get anything to come up.

hmmmm.


worked out the equation of my box (yes i am actually using math outside of school... WOW) and i'll post up how I did it here in a bit.. could possibly be stickied, or on the tech articles to figure out depth of a wedge box. i feel like it was pretty clever!