sub with jumper seats

[4x4fun]

the cvt is a good sub, not the best, but imho its the best for the buck, and if it fits your box all the better. if it fits im not gonna crunch numbers, lol my head all ready hurts from flying thur tec sheets.

 

[4x4fun]

use 3/4 and if you need to make some, internal and some external, the the hight can stay 13'' but your overall depth might have to be 4'' or 4.5 or something

 

[baxtej44]

use 3/4 and if you need to make some, internal and some external, the the hight can stay 13'' but your overall depth might have to be 4'' or 4.5 or something

what do you mean overall depth?

i am redoing my calculations with the actual measurements that matter, the interior dimensions to figure out the new specs of my box.

 

[4x4fun]

what do you mean overall depth?

i am redoing my calculations with the actual measurements that matter, the interior dimensions to figure out the new specs of my box.

if you need 4'' internal. were as you have 4'' external, you might have to make it 4'' internal and it will be what it will be

 

[baxtej44]

if you need 4'' internal. were as you have 4'' external, you might have to make it 4'' internal and it will be what it will be

well 4 inch internal is gonna be 5.5 inch exterior at the top, and i can measure again and see tomorrow, but i'm thinking my seats are already scooted up quite a bit...

the whole thing holding me back is just depth, which is really fustrating.

maybe i should just make it deeper and do width of the passenger side seat?

they can suffer while i'm comfortable lol... mainly because they don't have a steering wheel in the way you know?

if i had a bucket conversion done this would be alot easier.. but i'm not sure I am ready for that kind of work...

 

[4x4fun]

maybe i should just make it deeper and do width of the passenger side seat?

prolly a good idea

 

[baxtej44]

prolly a good idea

how hard is the 60/40 -> bucket conversion? bout an hour or two of work i am gonna guess? if i do it slow and do it right.

i think the general steps are like...
1) unbolt everything (where can i get a torx tool? any general hardware store? is it pronounced torques?)
2) unbolt armrest/seatbelt mechanisms
3) peel back fabric
4) cut middle part at indentation? (jig saw?)
5) trim fabric back to fit tight
6) bolt everything back together besides armrest?

 

[baxtej44]

lookin at some slim mount.... i've read very great reviews... so i'm going to give them a shot... i'm not all about intimidating cars next to me (even though that would be pretty cool), but even like my 4" full ranges i installed, i can feel the bass inside the cab great, but outside i can barely hear anything, and i'm fine with that. however with spending good money on a 12" and dynamatting, it should help alot with bass outside the cab

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Prod...px?i=130TSS3041&tp=111&tab=features_and_specs



should i worry about DVC or 4 ohm or 2ohm?
or any combination of the two?

DVC 4 ohm?
DVC 2 ohm?
SVC 4 ohm?
SVC 2 ohm?

eventually i'd like to have two slim mount 12's, but as of right now I'm probably going to stick with 1 so it's not so much money at once as I have a greece trip in less than 2 weeks and i've always been really tight with my money (even though i've got more than enough to buy two and an amp right now)

if i don't use a channel on an amp, is that okay? thinking about just getting a 2 channel for two subs eventually.

 

[baxtej44]

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P3SD212/Rockford-Fosgate-P3SD212.html?cc=02&tp=111

http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-XW1200F-Shallow-subwoofer/dp/B000PKDOQC?tag=959media-20

http://www.kicker.com/comp_vt

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16658

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107MM1240/Polk-Audio-MM1240.html?o=p&showAll=N&tp=111
^^really like this one for some reason

http://www.soundstormlab.com/main/662
^^always a possibility under a seat maybe after/before a real sub? would just add more correct?? looks to be decent, if it's 800w max it's probably somewhere between 200-500w rms? probably closer to 200 though. also, what is a bass shaker? and with passive radiator subs (i think i termed them correctly) they don't HAVE to be with the sub they say they should be with do they? i would think they would work with any sub as they just use the displaced air for flexing right?

 

[triumphrider-1]

I don't know if this will help much, but the photo below is of the boxes I made for my old truck (reg cab '90) and the rings just rubbed on the back of the seat when it was almost all the way back.

If I recall correctly they were 6" at the bottom and 4" or closer to 5" at the top, with the same length as the original boxes they replaced.

 

[flyingbrick]

Life is a compromise, that said what do you want? eardrum blowing bass? something to just rattle the rust lose? or award winning sound?

My recommendation is the Kenwood just because the recommended box size is almost what you have been asking about for your limited size.


Recommended box size
Width 30,7/16"
Height 14,1/4"
Top D 4,3/16"
Bottom D 6,3/4"
(.8CF ported or sealed)

 

[baxtej44]

Life is a compromise, that said what do you want? eardrum blowing bass? something to just rattle the rust lose? or award winning sound?

My recommendation is the Kenwood just because the recommended box size is almost what you have been asking about for your limited size.


Recommended box size
Width 30,7/16"
Height 14,1/4"
Top D 4,3/16"
Bottom D 6,3/4"
(.8CF ported or sealed)

Or since the kenwood is a shallow mount, I could go with the Polk Audio, still has a suggestion of .88cf, and hopefully have better sound.

Although the price on the Kenwood is really great.

How did you come up with the box sizes down to those exact numbers? If you can tell me, or you redo it, my height cannot be bigger than 13", there is a bump that is in the way.

 

[flyingbrick]

Or since the kenwood is a shallow mount, I could go with the Polk Audio, still has a suggestion of .88cf, and hopefully have better sound.

Although the price on the Kenwood is really great.

How did you come up with the box sizes down to those exact numbers? If you can tell me, or you redo it, my height cannot be bigger than 13", there is a bump that is in the way.

That's quoted right from my owners manual, you could easily play with the numbers to get it down to 13", I'd not trade my Kenwood for a Polk, it sounds great, and can hit as hard as any sub i have owned, or heard.

One last think why do you think the Polk will sound better?

 

[baxtej44]

That's quoted right from my owners manual, you could easily play with the numbers to get it down to 13", I'd not trade my Kenwood for a Polk, it sounds great, and can hit as hard as any sub i have owned, or heard.

One last think why do you think the Polk will sound better?

oh, you have that exact sub?

well alot of people say "slim mount" subs don't hit/sound as well. idk if it's true, but i knew they knew alot more about stuff than me, so i believed it.


if you think i will be super happy with the kenwood, especially since the price is RIGHTTTT, then i will get it. last time i was sketchy about someone suggesting a speaker, i got it, and was very impressed.



leaving for greece on the 29th of may, wanted to get everything ordered so it's all ready for me to work on, possibly before i go a bit, or right when i get back!

i believe the kenwood is a SVC, so should i look for a mono amp? don't think my dash speakers can take an amp, because they are like 20w rms anyway, and i don't have any other speakers (will be tearing out the stock rears, possibly keeping the boxes though)

 

[tpking]

when i did my 60/40 bucket seat mod took me about 20 mins with a hacksaw i didnt ever cut the fabric just folded it over and sewed it down real good .. looked factory..