Stumbling off idle

[JOKER86]

ok with all tha being said my in tank pump and sendin unit only cost about 100 $ for the whole assebly

 

[Terry]

The fuel gauge sending unit comes with the pump kit? I am going to try to test it on Friday if we don't get more snow.

 

[JOKER86]

yes and i cant remember exactly how but it aint that hard to get the unit out of the tank at all, but the bed weighs about 150 pounds or so, my and a buddy got mine off alot easier than droppin the tank

 

[Terry]

I'm up and runing again The old filter was so clogged so bad that I could not blow thru it. I put in on yesterday but had to remove do to leaking. I put the o-ring in correctly today and if started up. I was still running a little crappy so I put it in the driveway and cleaned the eger relay and anthing else on the passanger side fender well. it is running better that it has for a long time. Now that I am getting enough fuel, it is running cooler and it drops down to idle without dropping off and comming back up to idle. What other stuff do I need to PM? Where do I hookup my vacume guage and how much vacume should I see? After looking at pulling the bed to work on the tank pump, I am going to plan on replacing the pump and sending unit to get my fuel gauge back as well as putting in new leaf springs. That will be a spring time job.

 

[Psychopete]

Where do I hookup my vacume guage and how much vacume should I see? After looking at pulling the bed to work on the tank pump, I am going to plan on replacing the pump and sending unit to get my fuel gauge back as well as putting in new leaf springs. That will be a spring time job.

Unhook the brake booster and connect it to that vacuum tap in the upper plenum (drivers side).

Best bet on readings will be to look in a Hayes manual (I believe they outline this, but it's been a while since I've looked in one) or a quick search on Google will yield the information you're looking for as far as how to read one.

Pete

 

[MAKG]

There is often an unused and capped nipple on the vacuum tree. I suggest using that.

Note that 1986s have TWO pumps. One low-pressure pump in the tank, and a high pressure pump in the frame rail underneath the back of the cab on the left. They can be tested WITHOUT removal (both of them); the most common failure for them is an open circuit or other incorrect resistance. If you do remove them, there are disposible clips on the fuel lines that you will have to replace.

 

[Terry]

Truck messed up again. Went out to drive to the store for the morning paper. It was around 15 degrees. It stared up but was running rough. I had to throttle it to keep it running until it smothed out. Drove it a few blocks and it died. Took a while to get it started again. It ran like crap all the way home. Had to the old foot on the gas and the other on the break peddle routine. It acted like it was fouled in a few plugs? I am going out and pull some plugs?

 

[Terry]

The plugs were all fouled. I cleaned them and it started up. I did not touch the throttle until it got up to operating temp. The truck idles up and down a little. I put my obd testor on it KOEO and I got a 33? I unhooked it and made sure that the truck was up to operating temp. Re-hooked up the testor. I got a 71? I went in the house for somthing to eat. When I came back out, it did the same thing that it did this morning. I could not get it to start. Now I am only clicking on the starter like it is hung up. It seems like when I got the fuel issue worked out I found another problem?

 

[Terry]

Anybody have the pump in the tank go bad? What are the symptoms? It acted like it may have fouled out but I was pissed off and it was 20 degrees so I went in the house before checking any further. I don't think that the 33 error code is giving me all the grief but I'm no expert on these trucks?

 

[MAKG]

A bad pump isn't likely to foul your plugs. In fact, weak ones work fine at crank and idle, as very little fuel is actually required.

Are these hard or soft codes? It makes quite a lot of difference. If they are soft codes, run the engine-running test first.

 

[Terry]

I got a KOEO cose 33. I got a KOER 71. I need to work on the truck when I am not so pissed at it. I did not check the fuel pressure after I cleaned the plugs. I started it and let the truck warm up without touching it. After it set for 1/2 hour I thried to start it and it would not start and it seemed like it was trying to lock up? The 33 was after the 11 ? I did not see it flash the 71 I only saw it after the test. The codes while running are still in the tester?

 

[JOKER86]

if you get cha a hanyse manual or a chilton, something to that effect that may have the codes in it, and the whole not wantin to turn over thing might be a started drive going bad or the starter, i had that issue and it gave the symptoms of a slow crank sometimes, then seemed like a locked up motor

 

[Terry]

I don't know what he means, hard or soft codes? My book does not call them that? As far as the starter deal, you explained exactly how it acted. I am going to try the old hammer gag on the starter this weekend. Working 8 to 5 in the Northwest sucks in the winter, it is dark before you get home. My truck ran with almost no issues until now? I guess it just wants me to spend quality time with it.

 

[JOKER86]

the old hammer trick doesnt really work, because in the case that you would use that would be in a situation where is wont do anything at all, and thats casued by a bad winding in the motor that is broken by use. my started drive wound up jammin into the flywheel and if i had know that i could have got it hoe cause i had my girls dad to pull me down the road and it just locked up the tires, if i had know what was going on i could have put it in reverse and that might have thrown the drive out of engagement.

 

[Terry]

I was looking at Kragen auto this morning. They "stock" a rebuild kit, as well as a starter. Has anyone ever rebuilt their starter? Is it worth the 35 dollars that I would save?