still no luck, ideas?

[jaymegriffiths]

You shouldn't have to re-torque them. I have had 16" aluminum centerlines on my Ranger for quite some time and have never had to re-torque them. Really, I've never had to re-torque a lug nut because it's come loose before. I just keep the threads lightly greased and tighten them to 110 ft/lbs and it's never been an issue. Something funny is going on there IMO.

Pete

both my dad and two dependable mechanics i know said re-torque after 150k. (and the tire shop guy i talked to said with aluminum wheels they ask you to come back and have them re torqued for free.) i however put 1000k on the weekend i installed em. i put in new studs, re torqued the other side (2 nuts were not very tight.) i also changed the front wheels out for steel ones(the mags i use in summer) while i look for another aluminum wheel to match mine. i usually torque em as tight as the impact can turn em, and its never been a problem until now. the wheel looks alright but my dad insists i replace it. its kinda corroded anyways.
hopefully no more adventures anytime soon.
dr83:
i was goin about 55k. i was turning and got a little sideways
it kinda wrecked my fender.
i can get a patch panel for cheap but i dont have any money, and this stupid exploder wont sell. i think something may be wrong with it. dunno.
o ya and when my wheel flew off it rolled across the road and almost hit a van, then rolled voer 200 yards. dunno how it friggin got goin so fast
anyway.
my e brake needs tightening anyone know how its done?
o and dr83, my trucks been to 6 grand on several occasions, and runs strong. its by far the most powerful 2.9 i've seen. i'd be impressed to see a 2.9 run 5 grand without goin BANG. plus mines been overheated at least twice and still no head /gaskets
bring it. ps i'd be surprised if your tk tranny still works, things been sittin around for quite a while eh? still no sas huh. lol as if i can talk. dammit i should shut up
or as my great grandpa used to say "its better to let people think your stupid then to open your mouth and prove it"

 

[dangerranger83]

Your 2.9 may have been to 6 grand 100 times but its the one more time that blows it up. Mabey its the synthetic oil your using huuu? Why would my TK tranny not work right. Before we got the truck 10 years ago it sat for 2 years before that plus it had all new fluids put in it when the engine was swapped except the diffs. but those were done 2 years ago. The good thing about my TBI on my 2.8 is it starts right up and doesnt die like my dads truck does with the carb. We are going to be putting new jets and other stuff in it from another carb. that was rebuilt but still didnt work right and was never driven with the new stuff in it. We will be doing that Sunday, we will be busy Saturday hunting.

You might have to sell the sploder for less then you want.

 

[IMenriched]

as for the wheel deal;
are you running alum rims?? or steel ?? OEM?

if your running alum rim/ aftermarket check to see if the hole for the studs on rim is a bit larger than normal...and/or you have capped lug nuts...you might be bottoming the stud on capped nut, & not getting a full engagement on the centering tapper of the lug nut. In effect not getting the rim tight enough to hub. or just snug, but room for vibration to back things off as time goes by.

 

[Psychopete]

both my dad and two dependable mechanics i know said re-torque after 150k.

You go 150K miles with out having to even check the condition of your brakes?

Mine were just as tight as I put them on at least 10K. Reason I had to remove was for a wheel cylinder that starting leaking. Replaced shoes on both sides, along with the spring kits and replaced a suspect brake line, and the other wheel was no different as for a tightness.

I've used impact guns to take wheels off, but never put them back on. Tightening lug nuts with an impact causes the studs to stretch if you're tightening them too tight. It's recommend that you use a torque wrench.

Pete

 

[jaymegriffiths]

You go 150K miles with out having to even check the condition of your brakes?

Mine were just as tight as I put them on at least 10K. Reason I had to remove was for a wheel cylinder that starting leaking. Replaced shoes on both sides, along with the spring kits and replaced a suspect brake line, and the other wheel was no different as for a tightness.

I've used impact guns to take wheels off, but never put them back on. Tightening lug nuts with an impact causes the studs to stretch if you're tightening them too tight. It's recommend that you use a torque wrench.

Pete

even if i had a torque wrench i prolly wouldn't use it. i've never had problems before this. and no i dind't go 150 k miles i went 150 km's. i live in canada eh?
we go by kms and its stupid.
anyhow.
they are factory ranger aluminum rims, and i got the correct lugs. they were tight.
they are good now.
ps i replace my pads every 3-5 thousand kms as needed. im not dumb no matter how much it appears that way.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

ok so update. still not doin good, now have replaced follwing parts:
tranny with one from an 89
brand new
clutch
fan
tps
tfi
starter
air filter
plugs
cap and rotor
battery
alternator
double checked to ensure tranny plugs were in corect positions
also tested coil by unplugging and replacing with one known to be good
no effect.
oil changed regularily and only used castrol synthetic and currently using k&n filter

currently at its worst state so far.
when super cold it starts first turn, when warmed up very dfficult to start video soon i hope

 

[dangerranger83]

I think it might be a temp sensor. If the one on your dash is going out then imagine what to one your computer is doing for you. Have you tried putting the key into the on position for 5 or so seconds and letting the fuel pumps get up to pressure before trying to start it up? Does black smoke come out of your pipe when it finally starts when its warmed up? If so it might be giving to much fuel on start up thinking its still trying to cold start. I'm just throwing what I can out to you, want to see this thing get fixed.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

I think it might be a temp sensor. If the one on your dash is going out then imagine what to one your computer is doing for you. Have you tried putting the key into the on position for 5 or so seconds and letting the fuel pumps get up to pressure before trying to start it up? Does black smoke come out of your pipe when it finally starts when its warmed up? If so it might be giving to much fuel on start up thinking its still trying to cold start. I'm just throwing what I can out to you, want to see this thing get fixed.

yes ive tried cycling the pump, no effect. turns over til the battery is almost outta juice u outta see it. i get concerned looks all the time, people wondering if its gonna start or whatnot. ill go take a video now...
apperantly no i wont

 

[RustedRanger]

I like Blue Loctite for lugnuts....they stay tight,you can break them loose and it acts as an anti sieze.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

I like Blue Loctite for lugnuts....they stay tight,you can break them loose and it acts as an anti sieze.

ya. thanks.

 

[dangerranger83]

I think theres a weak signal on start up to the injectors to tell them to fire. Thats the only other thing I can think of.

As for the voltage problem you said about in your build thread, did you replace the voltage regulator, might be acting up on you. Your battery shouldnt be dieing that fast from cycling the pumps, of course the cold isnt nice to batteries either, might need a battery warmer.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

I think theres a weak signal on start up to the injectors to tell them to fire. Thats the only other thing I can think of.

As for the voltage problem you said about in your build thread, did you replace the voltage regulator, might be acting up on you. Your battery shouldnt be dieing that fast from cycling the pumps, of course the cold isnt nice to batteries either, might need a battery warmer.

i was reffering to the engine turning over, but ya. the cold isn't helping the problem.

 

[derekj]

Have you tested the coolant sensor? It is the white sensor with the black 2 wire plug right behind the rad hose clamp in this picture. The brass sensor on the right is for the gauge in the dash - has only one wire.

Derek

 

[DANGERRANGER420]

my 88 had the same problem it was really bad would idle rough and no power barely move and i found a split in the battery ground it was camo barely could tell because of the dirt and filth replaced both battery cables and the truck runs good now

 

[Demi9393]

I have same issue

I have a 85 ranger, and when the engine is cold it runs strong, but after running for just a bit, long enough for the engine to warm up, it starts trying to flood itself out, and drives horrible. I have changed just about every little thing I can think of except the carborator and coil.
When it is colder outside, the truck runs better for a longer period of time. I found a holly carb and I'll see if that fixes the issue.