Stealth Ranger Build

[baddad457]

Well, I guess I'll just have to let you learn on your own. But I will say it now...................I could have saved you the trouble, all you had to do was ask first. Those are going to be exactly double the headache you get with the Hedman 89500's. They're going to dump straight down into the axles.

 

[djkommando]

yeah i did ask but i just want to get this done real bad so i figured id order em since they were cheap and if they dont fit ill send em back no big deal. theyre supposed to be here today(wed) so ill see what happens. but im still open to all suggestions in case they dont work

 

[baddad457]

They probably also won't clear the spark plugs on the P heads either. You need to slow down and take a breath. You'll save some time and headaches. The FPA's might be your best bet, but call Stan first before ordering them to see if they fit a Ranger. His headers aren't cheap, but they're good stuff.

 

[djkommando]

yeah i know, my impatience is bad at times. but i got the headers today and just hung em on the motor quick and they clear the spark plugs and the motor mounts will have to be trimmed. hopefully by tomorrow night ill know if everything else works out.

 

[djkommando]

well got the headers on relatively easily. just had to notch the drivers side motor mount. as fas as spark plug clearance i got 2 that i just gotta heat and beat the header a tiny bit to give some room for the boot.











also i got the slave mount mostly done
slave for 81 nissan 280zx

 

[Mac]

Progress! While you got things sitting like that, would you be able to check the travel on that slave cylinder?
Dave

 

[djkommando]

Progress! While you got things sitting like that, would you be able to check the travel on that slave cylinder?
Dave

travel is just about 1 1/4"
its fully extended there, i just clamped it on to get the idea across

 

[baddad457]

Better buy some plug wire socks, they're still too close to the headers there. And did you check to see how much room you had below the collectors and to the axles, when they're bottomed out ?

 

[djkommando]

im def gonna get the wire socks and i should have the motor sitting where its supposed to tonight. i should be clear tho cuz they seem real short.

 

[doorgunner]

Keep up the quality picture taking....it's a pain.....but we appreciate it....specially us rookies)

I used the block hugger headers on my 350 similar to yours..I had to notch the drivers side motor mount & cillector for clearance.....and the collector down-tube had to be modified to clear the crossmember.....everybody told me to put the engine as far back as possible.......I did....(on the 2nd try!)

I had to modify only the driver's side front tube on the header to clear the steering shaft(I also removed 1/4" off the mounting flanges on the P/S box to get a little more clearance between the steering shaft and the shorty front tube (probably not necessary for you to do).

I made adapter plates per TRS members for the motormounts-to-crossmember to get everything fitted and driveable...they worked great.... (then i made frame-to-engine mounts & did away with the adapter plates later on.....but I generally do stuff the hard way!)

 

[tjdeerslayer37]

what about fittings from the existing clutch line to the new slave?

 

[djkommando]

Keep up the quality picture taking....it's a pain.....but we appreciate it....specially us rookies)

thanks. im trying to do my best to clarify problems and solutions to things ive run into

what about fittings from the existing clutch line to the new slave?

yeah that is a good question, im working on it right now. ill prob run to the parts store and find something to adapt it

 

[Teddyzee]

If you're using a Ford Master cyl, you'll likely need something like this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281?autofilter=1&part=RUS-640281&N=700+115&autoview=sku
If you want to use a braided clutch line.

I'm sure there may be other options.

Not sure if you know this, but my clutch (and others') required a great deal of preload on the clutch fork to get enough movement. I used a threaded rod instead of the stock rod in the slave, and used a series of nuts to make it adjustable. Also, I recommend having the slave push on the outermost hole in the clutch fork, as the inner hole was not quite enough leverage. (By that I mean the fork did not move quite enough distance)

It's a balancing act, lots of adjusting, to get the clutch to release enough to go in gear, and grab enough to not slip. At least it's an easy adjustment.

 

[djkommando]

thats the perfect adapter. i was thinking about using a hose barb w/ threads adapter to go into the plastic line. but the braided line is what i really wanted. thanks.

 

[djkommando]

buncha pics

well i got pretty far in the last couple hrs. the motor and trans are almost where they need to be. i put it in the first time and the slave bracket was hitting the floor and the motor mount studs were too far back. so i pulled it out, took the slave bracket off and switched the motor mounts around. also the headers seem like theyre gonna fit nice. it looks like i gotta shift it to the right a bit too. hopefully tonight ill get back to it and get the motor bolted in. so heres some pictures of where im at right now.