4.0L OHV Soul crushed and seeking advice on starting problems

[TacoBelleGirl]

You did not say,
But did you ask him about taking the starter you have now off and after looking at it putting it back on, to see if there is a alignment problem or not?

No I actually didn't, but he did say it sounds like some funky stuff is going on lol.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Hopefully you remember to see if he is willing to putting it on once you talk to him in person.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

If it was me, I would take it off the truck in his parking lot.

 

[TacoBelleGirl]

If it was me, I would take it off the truck in his parking lot.

I will inquire. It looks like they also do like A/C services and such so asking to physically work on the vehicle seems within reason.

Also because I don't want to spin up a whole thread just for this..
Is there a possibly someone knows the thread specs for the nut that was kindly missing on my truck?
M50D

TIA

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

For some reason I can't get it to let me pick what I want to for my like.

I'm sorry I don't know the answer for that one..

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I will inquire. It looks like they also do like A/C services and such so asking to physically work on the vehicle seems within reason.

Also because I don't want to spin up a whole thread just for this..
Is there a possibly someone knows the thread specs for the nut that was kindly missing on my truck?
M50D
View attachment 145373

TIA

I'm pretty sure it will be metric. Measure the diameter. 8 millimeter is M8
Count the threads per centimeter. Then divide that number into 10. Say you count 8 threads peak to peak. Divide 8 into 10 gives you 1.25.
So that imaginary bolt is an M8 x 1.25

 

[RobWigglezz]

I got .466" which is probably 12mm (.472") It looks finer than 12x1.75 and might be 12x1.5. My thread pitch gages are at work but I'll look for a 12x1.75 nut to confirm it won't thread on

 

[RobWigglezz]

A 12x1.75 nut won't thread on so it's probably 1.5

 

[TacoBelleGirl]

A 12x1.75 nut won't thread on so it's probably 1.5

Thank you!

 

[TacoBelleGirl]

I am currently in the process of reassembling after replacing the pushrods and rocker arms.. in addition to that the truck is also getting:
- Rebuilt starter (if there is anything wrong with it. I expect to hear from the shop Tuesday)
- Rocker arms, push rods, and new seals for everything that sits on top
- New fuel pressure regulator (I found the vacuum line was FULL of gas so that had failed)
- All aluminum fan /w efan conversion
- New struts
- Got the fuel gauge working!
- New thermostat and housing

I have it mostly back together now didn't grab a pic but the valve covers are on top and I have most stuff clipped into place.

In addition to not being able to get the fan clutch off, I'm missing some of the hardware on the valve covers that help keep even pressure on the gaskets. idk what they are called but I am missing two of them. Using image search I can find them for sale on ebay but it's a whole set and I only need a couple. Does someone know the name? Can I pick these up from the part stores?

Also this engine is FILTHY! Whoever sealed it up last did an awful job of it. I have spent a lot of time just cleaning especially the lower intake manifold. Cooling system has plenty of buildup, too.
Both of the back coolant passages were blocked. I freed them up with a pick and vacuumed them so I hope that will be okay. From my understanding on later years these passages are blocked off from the factory so I'm gonna think it's kinda fine.

For the pushrods and rocker arms I bough the TEK244 kid off ebay. seems to be Melling parts so it was $60 of savings when I priced it out.
New pushrods are quite a bit thicker than the OEM ones and weigh noticeably more. Don't really know why, I have heard of these wearing down but not bending or anything.
Did not get a picture between the old and new rocker arms but those were much more similar. Replacement one seemed to have very slightly larger holes for oil flow but otherwise be identical.

To my eyes I think there was more noticeable wear on the rocker arms, especially where they contact the valve stem.
I've always guessed to myself that this truck likely has about ~150k (rough ones, though).
Has anyone seen how these look around that mileage, is it maybe similar to what I am seeing?

One thing I did unfortunately run into was on the lower intake manifold the threads for the water pump housing were previously damaged and I seemed to have pulled out an attempt at a helicoil.

Using some longer m6 bolts and some washers I was able to get good thread engagement on one bolt and some on the other.. but I am kind of expecting leaks.

Also any advice on how to remove the fan clutch? The new radiator I got has it's own shroud and fan so I need to get it out!
I did rent the tool but I'm not having any luck. The belt just spins. Tried holding the belt and no dice. Tried vice grips on the belt with no luck.
Tempted to cut it with an angle grinder as I am really looking forward to this new radiator! It's about 2x the thickness to my eyes and I've wanted to move away from the mechanical fan for a while.
For those who are interested it was only about $150, though I haven't tested it yet so I can't give it my seal of approval.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/389947641783

btw if anyone is wondering the studs on the lower intake / fuel rail are E8 studs. I did take the rail off, cleaned the injectors, and replaced all the seals. The gunk had gotten down around the injector tips even.
Honestly this poor truck I feel bad for it.

Anyways hello, I hope everyone's doing well!

 

[bobbywalter]

When I made it home back in June...

I went to playing around.

With no happy results. And no hard data from internal suppliers. They don't want to be named in forum posts.

Hard side

need perfect separater plate and flywheel....

along with dowels and locater holes on transmissions....



Shit that ain't gonna happen for 200 Alex....





Next trip home I have to build chicken coop and canning primary tables ... Gonna be snowing before I get this starter crap figured out.



as to your pump bolt issue

maybe you have to get tricky if there is room.

M6 to M8 Stepped Stud Class 8.8 Steel

This M6 stud is machined in steel with two full metric threads, letting you join components securely from both ends. Grade 8.8. Available now from BelMetric.

belmetric.com

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

@TacoBelleGirl

I'm happy to see that you are still at it.
Sorry to say I can't help with any of the stuff you asked about.

Hello to you as well. Keep going. One step at a time. You'll get to where you want to be with your truck in time.

I wish you good luck and hope you will get there sooner than later.

@bobbywalter
I wish you luck as well.

We are all waiting to see both of you succeed in what you're doing.

 

[TacoBelleGirl]

When I made it home back in June...View attachment 147190




I went to playing around.

With no happy results. And no hard data from internal suppliers. They don't want to be named in forum posts.

Hard side

need perfect separater plate and flywheel....

along with dowels and locater holes on transmissions....



Shit that ain't gonna happen for 200 Alex....





Next trip home I have to build chicken coop and canning primary tables ... Gonna be snowing before I get this starter crap figured out.



as to your pump bolt issue

maybe you have to get tricky if there is room.

M6 to M8 Stepped Stud Class 8.8 Steel

This M6 stud is machined in steel with two full metric threads, letting you join components securely from both ends. Grade 8.8. Available now from BelMetric.

belmetric.com

Lol on the subject of starter issues when I was at the shop talking with the guy about the problems he goes "is this like for a 90's explorer? Yeah they have issues"
He said there are gears internal to them which can sometimes shred which would likely be best case for me. Didn't seem very optimistic that the starter itself is the source of the problems.

Stepped stud is a great idea, thanks!

@TacoBelleGirl

I'm happy to see that you are still at it.
Sorry to say I can't help with any of the stuff you asked about.

Hello to you as well. Keep going. One step at a time. You'll get to where you want to be with your truck in time.

I wish you good luck and hope you will get there sooner than later.

@bobbywalter
I wish you luck as well.

We are all waiting to see both of you succeed in what you're doing.

I'm still very deadset on NOT getting rid of this truck. There is a lot to fix but I think it's worth saving and I am attached to it regardless so I'm gonna keep spending time and money on it lol.
Maybe my next tax return can buy a new to me transmission

 

[redranger_redranger]

Hello Everyone!

I am visiting this thread from PHX. I am very glad I have come across this forum.

I am having the exact same starter problem - same noise as well. For a little background. I was on a trail one day a year ago and my starter fell out(bolts were not tight). I reinstalled the starter and that is when I first noticed the noise. I of course just thought that the banging around the the starter had caused damage to it, so I replaced the starter and the noise persisted. I dropped the transmission and replaced the flywheel. New Starter, New flywheel - Same noise then I warrenty'd and replaced the starter for a 2nd time - same noise. I lived with the noise for another couple months as the truck still started and I gave up. After more investigation I determined that the starter is not close enough to the flywheel. Of course this puzzled me as there is no way to adjust it. After driving it more another 6ish months, the truck made an even worse grinding noise and then wouldn't start at all. I gave in and brought it to the shop I go to when I can't solve a problem. He replaced the flywheel again along with trying out 2 brand new starters - same noise. He gave it back and said he didn't know what could be causing it. I looked at the flywheel that he took off and it has so much life left in it as it appears the starter is only meshing with about 20 percent of the gear.

So now I am 4 new starters and 2 new flywheels in and still have the same issue. Since I have replaced these parts so many times, I feel I can rule out Quality Control Problems.

I don't know the fix, but I am fairly confident that the problem is due to the fact that the starter is not close enough to the flywheel gear.

Anyways, I am interested in finding a solution to this once and for all, I have seen a few other people on the interweb with the same issue, but no one seems to have found a solution.


One thing that I read earlier in the chat was to try the automatic starter. I am interested in trying it, but what is the theory behind why this would even work?