Someone please help!!

[HondaEater]

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93373

this is my ongoing problem.

for a quick recap of what was already said in the other post. i have a problem accelerating. truck is making a deep growling or humming sound. the fuel pump has been replaced. timing has already been set with a timing light.
vaccum advance ( i believe its the yellow wire) connector was all burnt up and not connected so i soldered the wires back together. still wont go past 35 mph and it takes literally 1 minute to get to that speed. fuel filter is new. this my daily driver someone please point me in the right direction.

 

[dangerranger83]

Sounds like your carb. needs a rebuild. A few ports may be clogged that are keep correct fuel from being drawn and causing your leaning out.

If you don't have emissions testing on your state, duraspark it and be done.

Just thought about it. If your using the factory computer system, there's a leaning out device on the back of your carb. that the computer controls, it may have gone bad and is now in a wide open position, not allowing your engine to pull in the air through the barrels but instead around them, aka, leaning out.

 

[HondaEater]

We do have to for emissions testing here in NJ. What leaning out device are you talking about?

 

[Big Jim M]

Not me...

We do have to for emissions testing here in NJ. What leaning out device are you talking about?

Doesn't sound like fuel to me. A fuel problem would cause lots of popping/cracking and humping/ jumping..
Sounds like timing to me. Retarded timing can be the culpret here. POOR quality spark could be the problem..
I'm betting on the lectrics and not the fuel.
Big JIm

 

[HondaEater]

Timing was set the day before I found the frayed advance wire.

 

[dangerranger83]

May want to get your TPS checked out. It has a lot to do with how the computer reacts to engine timing, fuel consumption, etc....

 

[HondaEater]

Just replace it?

 

[dangerranger83]

There like $15, so I would if you have never replaced it. Thered a write up in the tech library on how to test it before you go and spend money.

 

[HondaEater]

I'm not even quite sure where the throttle position sensor is on this thing. To tell you the truth, i'm an EFI guy. I dont even understand why a carbureted motor has a tps on it based upon the fact it doesnt have injectors so it wouldnt need to give an output so that the ecu can determined injector pulse with etc.

IIRC i read somewhere that the codes will automatically clear within 40 warm up cycles? so the tps code had to be something that arose in my truck recently. and like i said before the problem occured recently. i drove from nj to philly with no problems and on the way back over the bridge acceleration hesitation became more an more apparent.

 

[dangerranger83]

The tps on these tells the computer how much the butterflies are opening n the carb. and in turn tell the computer to advance/retard timing (along with a couple other things). It has the closest communication to the computer on what to do.

Its located on the passenger side of the carb, hooked to the butterflies rod, has three wires comming off of it, black in color and made of plastic.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Do you have all the sensors plugged in including the IAT intake air temp. Check the timing with the spout wire connected the timing should advance past 35 degrees at 2000 rpm. make sure all the sensors and vacuum lines are connected. disconnect the battery for 20 minutes and then drive it for another 20 minutes and see how it acts.

 

[HondaEater]

What's the spout connector? Is that the connector with the single yellow wire running through it. If so that's the wire that was frayed I cut the connector and spliced the ends back together. I believe that's the wire for distributor advance. All the connections are on and snug including iac, the jets aren't clogged and I'm pretty sure the cat isn't either. Should I try pouring raw gas down the throat of the carb so I can rule out fuel? Because the only other fuel component I could think of being the problem is the accelerator pump but like I said I'm not carburetor savvy

I don't have a tachometer or a timing light so I can't tell where the timing is at 2k. A friend set the timing the other day at 10 degree BTDC but this was done almost a week after the problem persisted, and the day before I reconnected the broken yellow (advance) wire

 

[HondaEater]

As far as spark goes, here's what the plugs look like. They look pretty normal to me. I have no reason to actually believe spark quality is the culprit. It idles perfect never hiccups or misses. I have a new distributor cap and rotor for it just haven't thrown it on yet..

 

[HondaEater]

http://static.photobucket.com/playe...cket.com/albums/a439/hondaeater1320/truck.mp4

Poor quality audio. Sorry my droid 2 usually does alot better then that

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Eliminate variables cap,rotor,wires and plugs I prefer autolite single platinum AP105 with .044 gap. What is the gap on those plugs and change the pcv. You may as well prep it for winter now. Filters oil change clean the IAT and reset the computer.