(Solved)Fluid Question

[nickname23]

Have some Pronto brand Mercon in the garage enough for 2 or 3 changes in my 5 speed. It doesn't say Mercon V but it seems applicable it was originally for my wife's 99 F150.
I know these manuals take ATF but I'll post a picture of the bottle soon it's just hot today.
It says Mercon just not Mercon V but then it also says applicable for Mercon Ford vehicles? Gotta love these descriptions...

 

[nickname23]

It's rated for Mercon V, rather look stupid asking a question than putting the wrong fluid in

 

[sgtsandman]

There should be some "Meets specifications" markings on the bottle and what specifications those are. Then look at the specs on the Motorcraft site to see if there is a match. Some have said running old school Mercon is better for the transmission than using Mercon V. Everything I've owned, up until the 2019, that was made by Ford called for Mercon V.

 

[nickname23]

There should be some "Meets specifications" markings on the bottle and what specifications those are. Then look at the specs on the Motorcraft site to see if there is a match. Some have said running old school Mercon is better for the transmission than using Mercon V. Everything I've owned, up until the 2019, that was made by Ford called for Mercon V.

Yeah it's just so hot lately but it did say rated for Mercon V before 2005 vehicles and my ranger is 04 with the 5 speed.
Never changed one of these I have a hand pump for fluid delivery, it seems like a piece of cake compared to a bigger unit.
Anything I should watch out for?
Pretty sure I need to change it, if I drive for multiple days eventually the unit starts hard shifting, not bad but I can already tell if I don't it will cause more damage than I'm wanting.

 

[sgtsandman]

Yeah it's just so hot lately but it did say rated for Mercon V before 2005 vehicles and my ranger is 04 with the 5 speed.
Never changed one of these I have a hand pump for fluid delivery, it seems like a piece of cake compared to a bigger unit.
Anything I should watch out for?
Pretty sure I need to change it, if I drive for multiple days eventually the unit starts hard shifting, not bad but I can already tell if I don't it will cause more damage than I'm wanting.

Metal in the pan and on the magnet. A new pan gasket on hand might be a good idea incase there is something wrong with the old one or if it isn't a reusable gasket.

Patience on the refilling. If you over fill it, you then have to figure out how to get the execess out since the pan usually doesn't have a drain. Once you think you got the level right, shift it through all the gears, pausing a few seconds with each one. Then check the level. Then drice it to get to operating temperature and check it again. There should be a hot and cold level marking on the dip stick.

 

[nickname23]

Metal in the pan and on the magnet. A new pan gasket on hand might be a good idea incase there is something wrong with the old one or if it isn't a reusable gasket.

Patience on the refilling. If you over fill it, you then have to figure out how to get the execess out since the pan usually doesn't have a drain. Once you think you got the level right, shift it through all the gears, pausing a few seconds with each one. Then check the level. Then drice it to get to operating temperature and check it again. There should be a hot and cold level marking on the dip stick.

Thank you for the response, not sure if it has a gasket and it doesn't have a dipstick everywhere I've read said the fluid should be just below the fill hole.
Haynes says 2.8 quarts definitely going to take my time I'll send some pictures tomorrow it does have a drain bolt I'm not sure if it has a gasket or even a traditional pan either.

 

[nickname23]

Okay here are some pictures of what I'll be messing with, first one of the bottles there's two pictures of my transmission it seems to be weeping on opposite ends, no dripping or spotting anywhere I park or drive so that's

There is also something new I found, one of the pictures is right at the end of the driveshaft right before the rear differential? Or maybe it's the torque converter not sure but it's also weeping, again no spots.

 

[4x4junkie]

You should state: "Manual" or "Stick shift" for your transmission (the automatic and manual both have 5 speeds for your year).
I see yours is a manual (so no torque converter).

That fluid you have should be fine. Mercon V was not specified for the manuals until 2008.

Your leak at the rear axle looks like the pinion seal leaking. Unless it's dripping or getting all over the place, you can let that one go for awhile. Just be sure to check the fluid level every 5-10K miles or so.

Back of the transmission is likely the rubber shifter rail plugs. Easy to change, but access might be difficult. Left for too long though may lead to enough fluid loss and the trans getting ruined (this one usually doesn't show a drip since the fluid loss only occurs while driving). Suggest you inspect those right away.
(some info here).

Up by the engine could be a few different things: engine rear main seal, input shaft seal, clutch slave cylinder. A good mechanic should be able to identify which kind of fluid it is (indicating which of those are leaking).

 

[nickname23]

You should state: "Manual" or "Stick shift" for your transmission (the automatic and manual both have 5 speeds for your year).
I see yours is a manual (so no torque converter).

That fluid you have should be fine. Mercon V was not specified for the manuals until 2008.

Your leak at the rear axle looks like the pinion seal leaking. Unless it's dripping or getting all over the place, you can let that one go for awhile. Just be sure to check the fluid level every 5-10K miles or so.

Back of the transmission is likely the rubber shifter rail plugs. Easy to change, but access might be difficult. Left for too long though may lead to enough fluid loss and the trans getting ruined (this one usually doesn't show a drip since the fluid loss only occurs while driving). Suggest you inspect those right away.
(some info here).

Up by the engine could be a few different things: engine rear main seal, input shaft seal, clutch slave cylinder. A good mechanic should be able to identify which kind of fluid it is (indicating which of those are leaking).

Thank you for taking the time and apologies for the confusion on the transmission!
Going to try the plier method for the rail plugs I'm pretty thin.
Will check further on the rear of that engine once light hits and will update progress.
From what you've already told me I'm not going to even drive it until I get those plugs changed and the fluid level is obviously going to be lower than normal.
There is a lot of vibration during idle, shifts smoothly but the stick is literally like the truck from Toy Story vibrating at all times in neutral unless shifted into a gear, if it's more towards the right side in neutral there isn't much vibration.

 

[sgtsandman]

Thank you for the response, not sure if it has a gasket and it doesn't have a dipstick everywhere I've read said the fluid should be just below the fill hole.
Haynes says 2.8 quarts definitely going to take my time I'll send some pictures tomorrow it does have a drain bolt I'm not sure if it has a gasket or even a traditional pan either.

That was my fault for not going back up to the top to see that you have a manual instead of an automatic. My appologies. There has been a lot of automatic transmission questions lately on here and facebook.

You are indeed correct on the fill level. The crush washers on the fill and drain plugs are replaceable but doesn't always need replaced. If they don't leak, you are good.

 

[nickname23]

That was my fault for not going back up to the top to see that you have a manual instead of an automatic. My appologies. There has been a lot of automatic transmission questions lately on here and facebook.

You are indeed correct on the fill level. The crush washers on the fill and drain plugs are replaceable but doesn't always need replaced. If they don't leak, you are good.

Yeah I'm trying to get my stick as reliable as possible because my wife's 2010 F150 SuperCrew "Black Cherry" is starting to slip gears.
If Cherry goes down because of the transmission it's going to take me more than a few days to repair at least she has the 4.6 so the motors the last thing that in theory would go out
2wd but unfortunately even with lower mileage I think previous owners towed, don't think it's the torque converter because I've towed over a couple tons with a loaded trailer and it tugs like a horse wearing a hat .
These summers are hell in Texas though thinking a fluid change might prevent a disaster in hers also.

 

[4x4junkie]

Thank you for taking the time and apologies for the confusion on the transmission!
Going to try the plier method for the rail plugs I'm pretty thin.
Will check further on the rear of that engine once light hits and will update progress.
From what you've already told me I'm not going to even drive it until I get those plugs changed and the fluid level is obviously going to be lower than normal.
There is a lot of vibration during idle, shifts smoothly but the stick is literally like the truck from Toy Story vibrating at all times in neutral unless shifted into a gear, if it's more towards the right side in neutral there isn't much vibration.

Is the stick loose or floppy? If so, it might just need new shifter bushings.

TRS Magazine - Shifter Bushing Replacement

www.therangerstation.com

Ford discontinued the bushings long ago, but aftermarket kits are available. (Dorman pt# 917-551)

 

[nickname23]

Is the stick loose or floppy? If so, it might just need new shifter bushings.

TRS Magazine - Shifter Bushing Replacement

www.therangerstation.com

Ford discontinued the bushings long ago, but aftermarket kits are available. (Dorman pt# 917-551)

Will send a video soon if possible it's hard to describe only because it's my first stick.
Floppy isn't really the best way it's more like loose and it only popped out of gear once while driving but that might have just been me being too soft on engaging the shifter.
1st gear sometimes is an ass so I've been using 2nd for launching as a precaution if 1st wants to feel tight.

 

[nickname23]

Realized I have a soft touch because I've watched and even broken things with force, if I long throw and shove it not hard but with force every gear locks in, it's really 1st gear after driving for awhile can be "off" like there's a wall. If I pull into 2nd then neutral the wall is gone.

 

[sgtsandman]

Realized I have a soft touch because I've watched and even broken things with force, if I long throw and shove it not hard but with force every gear locks in, it's really 1st gear after driving for awhile can be "off" like there's a wall. If I pull into 2nd then neutral the wall is gone.

Is reverse the same way? Not the popping out of gear but hard to get the transmission into gear. When mine gets like that, changing the fluid fixes it for me.