Small gauge wire connectors

[JoshT]

Hooking up a wideband for upcoming tuning on my V8 swap. This is not to be a permanent install in the truck, and I intend to use it for other test and tune purposes down the road. For now it will be connected to power and ground for the wideband controller, and to a firewire cable for connecting to the SCT X2 for dataloging. In the future it may be connected to a standalone AFR gauge, to a megasquirt system, or something else. As such I do not want to make permanent wiring connections, but I also want a more solid connection than twist and tape offers.

There are 7 wires in total for the wideband, and only need to use 4 in current configuration (or 5 if I attach a guage). I don't care if I have everything from the wideband going into one connector and breaking out, or if I have a few separate connectors for different configs. I want connectors to leave in place on the wideband side, and can replace or rework the otherside as necessary.

Anyone have good experience with quick connectors for small gauge wires. The firewire cable I'm connecting to is around a 22awg, and the wires for the wideband are about the same. Doesn't need to be waterproof, as the connections will be made in the interior of the vehicle, but do need something that isn't just going to comeapart with the slightest tug. Small physical size would be a bonus for passing through grommets, but I can work around that by depinning and repinning the connector when necessary.

Between RCs, electronics, and other stuff, I know that there are a few people around that have worked with small gauge wiring. So what can you suggest.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Packard and deutsch style connectors crimp the bare wire and the insulation. Way more robust then just crimping on bullet or spade connectors.

I would probably buy a kit with an assortment of connector bodies/terminal/seals and use those. You'll find used going forward for the rest.

Is the wide and O2 pigtail long enough to come inside the vehicle? I would really keep the number of connections on those wire minimal.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Deutsch DT connectors. They have pins that go down to 22 gauge and since the patent ran out, they are not super expensive. I use those for smaller wires and use the Weatherpacks for larger. DT plugs max out at like 14 gauge and 7-10 amp. There’s a larger version that handles down to 10 gauge but I just use Weatherpacks for anything bigger.

 

[2011Supercab]

If it's just temporary, I'd probably tin the end of the wire and use a terminal block

 

[JoshT]

If it's just temporary, I'd probably tin the end of the wire and use a terminal block
View attachment 123190

Temp, but I'll still likely be driving around with it for a few months. Connectors are going to right near the cup holder area, so I think I want something a little more protected than that. Doesn't need to be weather proof, but that's just a little too exposed IMO.

 

[JoshT]

Is the wide and O2 pigtail long enough to come inside the vehicle? I would really keep the number of connections on those wire minimal.

It's a 14point7 Spartan 3 V2 wideband. The O2 connects directly to the controller with a weatherproof connection under the truck. The controller has a long cable that stretches up to the cupholder area in the truck where the connections I need to make are located.

I'll look at he Packard and Deutsch connectors, but I think those are larger bodied than what I'm wanting to use. Might just have to make them work though.

 

[2011Supercab]

There's also this style, Dual Row Type H Screw Terminal Block

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

It's a 14point7 Spartan 3 V2 wideband. The O2 connects directly to the controller with a weatherproof connection under the truck. The controller has a long cable that stretches up to the cupholder area in the truck where the connections I need to make are located.

I'll look at he Packard and Deutsch connectors, but I think those are larger bodied than what I'm wanting to use. Might just have to make them work though.

If I remember to, I’ll try to get some size pics of the DT connectors today

 

[Curious Hound]

There's also this style, Dual Row Type H Screw Terminal Block
View attachment 123191

"If it's just temporary, I'd probably tin the end of the wire and use a terminal block"

Those are handy. But not so great for wires as small.as he is talking about. Though the connection can be made better and more robust by crimping ferrules in the tiny stranded wires. Ferrules keep the strands together and offer more mechanical protection when the terminal block screw is tightened. Soldering the ends of the wires does the same thing.

 

[Curious Hound]

I would second the notion for deutsch connectors if it isn't too far out of your budget.

The actual crimp has 2 stages. One stage crimp the conductors, making a secure electrical connection. The second part crimp around the wire insulation for additional mechanical strength. The body of the connector then gives you something substantial to grab when connection and disconnecting it. That way you're not putting undue force on the wires themselves. For something that will be connected and disconnected periodically, especially with wires as small as 20 or 22 gauge, this is a huge win in reliability.

 

[JoshT]

Thanks for the feedback guys, I think I've found what I need for this little project.

I do not question the quality of Deutsch, Packard, or Weatherpack style connectors. After studying them some I still think they are larger bodied than what I want for this project, and I do not need the weather resistance capabilities that they offer. A small connector body that can be fed through or tucked into tight spaces is more important than weather resistance.

I think that these JST style connectors are going to do just what I needed. I've used similar to repair leads on a 3D printer before, but those were made to go into a board header. These are male/female connectors. If they turn out to not be good for this wiring project, they will still be handy to have when it comes time to resume rebuilding and upgrading that 3D printer.

https://a.co/d/h0yr5oC

 

[Curious Hound]

Thanks for the feedback guys, I think I've found what I need for this little project.

I do not question the quality of Deutsch, Packard, or Weatherpack style connectors. After studying them some I still think they are larger bodied than what I want for this project, and I do not need the weather resistance capabilities that they offer. A small connector body that can be fed through or tucked into tight spaces is more important than weather resistance.

I think that these JST style connectors are going to do just what I needed. I've used similar to repair leads on a 3D printer before, but those were made to go into a board header. These are male/female connectors. If they turn out to not be good for this wiring project, they will still be handy to have when it comes time to resume rebuilding and upgrading that 3D printer.

https://a.co/d/h0yr5oC

Those should be fine.