Slave Cylinder hydraulic system no travel

[Jazzer]

Could you explain the fix with the BB’s?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Glad you’re mobile again.

 

[Jtrussell1890]

So the push rod is too short?

Here's the rub with that question, I've compared all three pushrods, the original, the first replacement and the 2nd and they are all the same length. The valve bodies are also all the same length. The mount on the firewall has no signs of wear, deformation, or it damage. Nothing is different as far as I can tell. That being said, I found a more solid way to keep the added length on the push rod and after almost a week of driving, I'm having no issues with the clutch engagement or dusting gears. I'm good with the current set up and do not intend to alter things as long as it's working

 

[Jtrussell1890]

Could you explain the fix with the BB’s?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Glad you’re mobile again.

Ok, my permanent fix is this:

Took a length of heat shrink tubing (do not get me to.lying about the exact size, it was just the same size as the push rod) and slid it over the end of the push rod just until the first indentation, but not past it. I dropped the 2 BB's in and applied the heat to shrink everything. Then I trimmed the excess at the end of the BB's. I then applied the next size larger heat shrink and again applied the heat to shrink everything. I the put it in the freezer for about 20 min. Everything had hardened at this point. I then used a razor to trim the excess and just left the smallest amount of the BB exposed. I the reinstalled the push rod and I have the proper amount of travel on the way down and in the return of the pedal. It rests at the correct position and I am getting plenty of push to work the clutch. It's going all the way to the floor with proper resistance starting with in the first inch of the pedals movement.

 

[Jazzer]

Thanks for detailing the method you used!

 

[SenorNoob]

...Nothing is different as far as I can tell...

Congrats on getting it working. Could the inside of one of the master cylinders be made different enough to cause it?

 

[Jtrussell1890]

Congrats on getting it working. Could the inside of one of the master cylinders be made different enough to cause it?

It's possible, and I was also wondering if in the original that I took off, there was some kind of retainer clip in the valve at the end of the push rod that made the difference as well because the push rod in that one doesn't come out. Short of destroying the part, I couldn't get the push rod to actually release from the valve. I have saved the both of the sets that "didn't work" because I'm still not convinced they are bad parts. Maybe when I have some extra time, I'll set them up and "bench bled" them to see if I can replicate the failures and if there's a solution similar to what I've had to apply to my current set up or what the actual failures were.

 

[SenorNoob]

There actually is supposed to be some kind of retainer. Wouldn't wanna catch the back of the pedal with your toe and pull it apart.

 

[svtom]

So the push rod is too short?

I have all almost new parts(1500mi ago) and suddenly my clutch isn't totally releasing.
New Master,new slave/w bearing, new disc, new pressure plate, new flywheel, and all worked fine for a couple of thousand miles. Now, incomplete release. Rod maybe too short to begin with?

 

[Jtrussell1890]

I have all almost new parts(1500mi ago) and suddenly my clutch isn't totally releasing.
New Master,new slave/w bearing, new disc, new pressure plate, new flywheel, and all worked fine for a couple of thousand miles. Now, incomplete release. Rod maybe too short to begin with?

What I found is that there is a retainer clip imbedded in the entrance of the valve assy that locks the rod in place to keep it from dislodging itself during use. I couldn't find the retainer as a stand alone part, so I improvise a way to make up the 4mm of distance I was missing and it solved all my problems. It's been several months now and it's still going strong. Since yours is after few thousand miles, you might look into getting air into the system, bad fluid (has water or other contamination) to start with.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

What I found is that there is a retainer clip imbedded in the entrance of the valve assy that locks the rod in place to keep it from dislodging itself during use. I couldn't find the retainer as a stand alone part, so I improvise a way to make up the 4mm of distance I was missing and it solved all my problems. It's been several months now and it's still going strong. Since yours is after few thousand miles, you might look into getting air into the system, bad fluid (has water or other contamination) to start with.

This.

Also, just because a part is new, unfortunately, doesn’t mean that the part is good anymore. Quality of new parts has gone down the toilet in recent years and there also has been a rash of fake parts - cheap no name stuff being stuck in a box that looks like Moog or NGK or any other big brand