Setting up SAS steering?

[Hagan]

I'm at the point where I'm setting up steering on my FW Dana 44. I already have the center link done but I am concerned on how to set up the drag link (the arm from the pitman arm to the passenger side tie rod end). I am using the ruffstuff GM 1-ton steering. So, my question is does the truck have to be on its own weight?

And, it seems like the tie rod end doesn't have any play in it. Like i can't tighten the pitman arm tie rod end and point it towards the passenger tie rod end. It seems like it has to be level for it to work.

My truck has no weight on the front end and there is exactly 12" from the pitman arm to the centerlink.

Thanks!

 

[wahlstrom1]

Pic's say everything here... post up and we can answer whatcha need to know.

The fact there's no slop in the TRE is a good thing, you just need more leverage to get it to move. Shouldn't need to be level, but you may run out of travel with them and start binding if they're at too much of an angle...

 

[Hagan]

Ok i'll take some pics and upload them tomorrow.

I'm not sure what I need to take a pic of. I just need to know if the truck has to be on its own weight to set up the drag link? If my steering binds I will just get a drop pitman arm.

Also, I meant it seems like TRE has a limited range of movement. Not that there should be slop.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

I had started out using that steering set up on mine...once I hit about 10.5" of droop the tie rod end at the pitman would bind on my and prevent any more down travel on the passenger side. So I switched it up and went to heims and ran the drag link straight to the knuckle. I welded on a double shear mount. I still bind before using the full 14" of my air shocks, but now I can hit just shy of 13" down travel before it binds so I will just run limit straps to keep it from binding.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Oh, and I'm using a stock ranger pitman arm.

 

[Hagan]

Thank you!

I see you put the TRE over the pitman arm...I put mine under. Not sure if that is going to be a problem?

I think my setup should work fine. I am assuming you have a lot more lift than me...considering your tires are a lot bigger!

Is it possible to have a bend in the drag link to achieve a better angle?

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

I had the TRE on top of the pitman because it would hit the tie rod on full compression.

Now with the heims I am running it underneath as it just clears everything and gives me a flatter drag link.

As for lift...wasn't trying to achieve any lift, made everything so it would just clear while being as low as possible. The cut out fenders help clear the tires and only having 3.5-4" up travel, the rest is droop.

As for bending the drag link, sure you can, but If you are thinking putting a bend in it will make it flatter (which is better) you are wrong. You would still draw a line from tie rod to tie rod and it is still the same physical angle.

You can see in the second picture that my track bar has a slight bend in it, that was to clear the nut on the bottom of the pitman arm at full bump. But the bar still has the same physical angle as the drag link does bolt to bolt if you were draw a straight line between the two.

 

[Hagan]

I was thinking that a bend at the pitman arm (making it level) would fix the issue. Because it would have a wider range of movement versus already being maxed out. If that makes any sense.

So, I have a couple options...going with heims or using a drop pitman arm.

Would it be stupid to use a heim on the pitman arm and a TRE on the other end?

Here is the truck (It has a rear axle and is sitting on 35's right now)

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Your angles will probably be fine once the weight is on it.

I built all my steering at ride height.

And what you are talking about for the drag link sounds like a Z link...don't do it. Straight is a lot stronger than bent.

Oh and that tie rod end at the pitman arms is what they call an extreme angle tie rod end, it should have lots of range of travel for your application.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Is that what you were thinking?

 

[SAY789]

Ya you want to build your drag link and track bar both at ride height otherwise when you set it on its own weight the axle would push to the passenger side.

I think what he is getting at is not like the Z link you posted but just a slight bend where it meets up with the pitman arm. Yes you can put a slight bend in them to help maximize your TRE. Most rigs come factory with a slight bend in the drag link for that exact reason. And with a coil sprung axle he doesnt have to bend the lower to avoid hitting the leafs in that pic

 

[SAY789]

Something like this is what i believe he is wanting to do

 

[legoms013]

Your angles will probably be fine once the weight is on it.

I built all my steering at ride height.

And what you are talking about for the drag link sounds like a Z link...don't do it. Straight is a lot stronger than bent.

Oh and that tie rod end at the pitman arms is what they call an extreme angle tie rod end, it should have lots of range of travel for your application.

Looks like a regular TRE to me

Normal ones have up to 15* of movement......high angle DRE's (drag link rod ends) have 30*, since they are double pivot and have two socket joints inside...Usually they look like this (and is what I recomemnd for the pitman arm connection b/c of the extra range of movement, not a normal TRE)...they are characteristicly eyed by the larger boot, longer oveall length and taller rod end:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TREDRAG.html

I would use one of the these(DRE's) Hagan, not the one you got on there now.

Typical GM TRE:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TRESTAND.html

Correct me if I am mistaken.

 

[Hagan]

Looks like a regular TRE to me

Normal ones have up to 15* of movement......high angle DRE's (drag link rod ends) have 30*, since they are double pivot and have two socket joints inside...Usually they look like this (and is what I recomemnd for the pitman arm connection b/c of the extra range of movement, not a normal TRE)...they are characteristicly eyed by the larger boot, longer oveall length and taller rod end:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TREDRAG.html

I would use one of the these(DRE's) Hagan, not the one you got on there now.

Typical GM TRE:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TRESTAND.html

Correct me if I am mistaken.

According to the kit there is a "High Angle" tie rod end included. Maybe I got the tie rod ends mixed up? There are two that are threaded a lot more that I assumed were for the drag link and I'm guessing on the other two.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html

4 - Tie Rod Ends, 1 for the Y Link, 2 for the Tie Rod, & 1 High Angle TRE for the pitman arm

 

[Hagan]

Is that what you were thinking?

No not quite. I just meant 1 bent at the pitman arm. Like what SAY789 is talking about.

I think you can have any angle you want on the y-link TRE and have a bend in the steering to correct the tre angle at the pitman arm. I'll take a pic of all the tie rod ends.