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Setting up SAS steering?


I think I figured out which tie rod end was the high angle one. All I did was move the stud as far as it would go in one direction and the one that moved the furthest is the high angle.

Anyway, here are my TRE's.


(Left to right) Passenger side y-link TRE, Drivers side TRE, Pitman arm TRE, and y-link TRE
DSC03965.jpg
 
Looks like I messed up. The one I thought was a TRE is actually the high angle pitman arm one.
 
All I am saying is if you do not need a bend, don't put one. Straight is always stronger. Build it all at ride height, tack it together and cycle the suspension, make sure nothing binds and go from there.
 
Yeah I think you're right. Well I know you are. The truck is sitting on its own weight and the angle will be much better. I do not have a track bar yet so I'm using two ratchet straps.

Everything is coming together nicely...and I can't wait to get it going.

So cycle the suspension as remove the springs and jack the suspension up and see if it binds right?
 
Looks like I messed up. The one I thought was a TRE is actually the high angle pitman arm one.

Correct. From left to right:

Longest TRE wih eyelet goes on passenger knuckle

Medium length DRE goes on pitman arm.

Last two TREs go on the on the driver knuckle, the other in the eyelet of the longest TRE.

If installed like I have described you will not need a bend in the draglink at the pitman arm connection.
 
Correct. From left to right:

Longest TRE wih eyelet goes on passenger knuckle

Medium length DRE goes on pitman arm.

Last two TREs go on the on the driver knuckle, the other in the eyelet of the longest TRE.

If installed like I have described you will not need a bend in the draglink at the pitman arm connection.

Thats exactly how its setup. And the picture on Ruffstuff is actually wrong. But now worries. It helped to look at Ruffstuffs individual picture of the parts too.

And also the 2 same size TRE's have an exact place.

-Longest TRE with hole goes on PS knuckle

-Medium length DRE goes on pitman arm

-Right hand threaded TRE goes on DS knuckle

-Left hand threaded TRE goes on eyelet hole

DSC03975.jpg

DSC03976.jpg

DSC03977.jpg

DSC03978.jpg
 
Perfect. Now that the DRE is on the pitman arm, everything is set up perfect. No need for a bend at the pitman as far as I can see.

And yes the regular short TREs have a specific place and looks like you got that part figured out as well.

Any more questions? Otherwise it looks great. Now for the track bar....
 
No more questions!

But it is time for the track bar...haven't given it much thought until now. I was waiting until I was done with the steering. Any idea on how your going about this?
 
No more questions!

But it is time for the track bar...haven't given it much thought until now. I was waiting until I was done with the steering. Any idea on how your going about this?

I am probably going to weld two triangular plates onto my axle making a pivot point just above the preexisting track bar bolt hole (so it is double shear). That way my draglink will be parallel to my track bar (I will make a drop bracket for the frame side that puts the upper pivot point at the same elevation as the pitman connection).

I need to do this since my axle is narrowed. You may not have to though.
 
I am probably going to weld two triangular plates onto my axle making a pivot point just above the preexisting track bar bolt hole (so it is double shear). That way my draglink will be parallel to my track bar (I will make a drop bracket for the frame side that puts the upper pivot point at the same elevation as the pitman connection).

I need to do this since my axle is narrowed. You may not have to though.

I see what your saying. The problem I have with the stock location is the track bar hits the front of the engine cross member lip and it is right behind the pitman arm. I need to make it directly above the axle...and have it behind the drivers side bucket. I guess I need to buy an extension cord for my welder now.

I have a bunch of 1/4" plate that I'm thinking I could use for a mount. Think that will be strong enough as long as its double shear?
 
Notch the engine crossmember. I cut mine back and plated it in, only about 1/3 of it left now.
 
When I do mine I might cut it mostly flush and weld it up with 1/4". Or at minimum the first lift closest to the pitman arm.
 
Here you can see how much I took off.

IMG_3068.jpg


titcomb
 
Ah now that makes sense. I think I am going to have to do that then. I looked closer and I can use the stock mount. And the other end of the track bar will mount flush with the outside of the frame.

Any idea on what track bar I should use to adapt to the stock location?

I think I need an adjustable track bar. At least I think that would be the best solution.
 
Ah now that makes sense. I think I am going to have to do that then. I looked closer and I can use the stock mount. And the other end of the track bar will mount flush with the outside of the frame.

Any idea on what track bar I should use to adapt to the stock location?

I think I need an adjustable track bar. At least I think that would be the best solution.

Fab one just like the tie rod/draglink with heims on both ends or heim on one end and re-buildable johhny joint or similar for the other.

I suppose you could use an aftermarket shaft for whatever truck the axle came out of...but I would just make one...stronger and quicker.
 

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