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Seriously guys! I need help!!!


dunno if this is relevant, but i Have 2 tanks and the tank switch does not work. I'm not sure if this affects the reading or not...
We had the switch unplugged a while back. maybe the plug is loose messing up a pump ground or something...
 
i had the same problem.

my problem was consistent with what you are saying. my problem was the three contacts between the tfi module and the distributor. clean em up, and see if you can tighten them up somehow.
 
my problem was consistent with what you are saying. my problem was the three contacts between the tfi module and the distributor. clean em up, and see if you can tighten them up somehow.
Ill give it a whirl. maybe clean them (and even give them a little twist?)
my problem seems to be too consistant to be some loose contacts. The problem almost always occurs when It's shut off and when its warm. Ill take a look at it. just curious, if the film on that plate is worn away or even scratched away, whether in part or whole, would this have any effect on performance (my old one was in significantly better physical shape, but appeared to fix my problem of not starting. We drove it, got it warm shut it off, it wouldm't start, and we assumed it was outta gas, and put gas in, no start, then we towed it home and next morning it started. kinda gets me baffled and confused sometimes...
 
Failing all other attempts to make an engine in an '88 Bronco2 run right
and this included PROPER diagnostic proceedure followed by systematic
replacement of ALL the modules with others from a running (perfectly running)
2.9 that were thus "known good" and having all attempts fail the last step was to REMOVE the entire engine management harness from the patient and get another complete harness from a junkyard vehicle.

After doing that and determining something inside the removed harness was broken
because it FIXED the problem, no further examination of the removed harness
was conducted.

The problem was solved, the harness was fukt, nobody had enough
energy to ponder it any further.

It soon became a toot point as the bronco2 in question was subsequently
rear ended while making a Right hand turn by a drunk in a firebird and flipped
end-over several times.... making further research doubly pointless.


AD
 
Failing all other attempts to make an engine in an '88 Bronco2 run right
and this included PROPER diagnostic proceedure followed by systematic
replacement of ALL the modules with others from a running (perfectly running)
2.9 that were thus "known good" and having all attempts fail the last step was to REMOVE the entire engine management harness from the patient and get another complete harness from a junkyard vehicle.

After doing that and determining something inside the removed harness was broken
because it FIXED the problem, no further examination of the removed harness
was conducted.

The problem was solved, the harness was fukt, nobody had enough
energy to ponder it any further.

It soon became a toot point as the bronco2 in question was subsequently
rear ended while making a Right hand turn by a drunk in a firebird and flipped
end-over several times.... making further research doubly pointless.


AD

well thats too bad about your b2 but are you suggesting i replace the entire wiring harness from a running 2.9(or one that has a perfectly functional set of sensors/ engine)
 
Codes:

67: -Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP
-Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions
- (M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault - PNP
which means somethings gibbled in my parking or w/e i dont care
Memory codes:

14: -Ignition pickup was erratic - Ignition Systems
(there was another about deisel something or other, irrelevant)

41:-(R) System lean - Fuel control
-(M) System was lean for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching)-fuel control

95:-(O) Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
(R) AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection
(M) Possible bad fuel pump ground or open between fuel pump and pin 8 at PCM (Fuel Pump Monitor signal) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
The first one usually just means that you didn't have it in neutral (manual) or P (auto). What section of the code tests did the rest of them come in?
 
The first one usually just means that you didn't have it in neutral (manual) or P (auto). What section of the code tests did the rest of them come in?
I believe they were memory codes. The first code(67) displayed twice, then a long pause, about 6 seconds, then the 3 other codes played in a row then repeated. I think these are memory codes no?
 
bump. still not fixed guys. terminals were cleaned. no luck. heres a question, how can i determine a harness functions if its in a j/y vehicle. all the ones near here wont start the vehicles
 
Have you tried clearing the codes and see which ones come back?

If those codes where in there when you did some of the repairs and did not clear codes then the codes will still be there and sometimes effects the computer.
 
Have you tried clearing the codes and see which ones come back?

If those codes where in there when you did some of the repairs and did not clear codes then the codes will still be there and sometimes effects the computer.

sorry i dont know how to clear the codes. if you would be so kinda as to explain to me how to do this (at your convenience of course) i would gladly do it. I'd really love your help because around here aint broke dont fix is a well followed rule
 
The proper way to clear codes would be with a scanner...but since you probably dont have one would be to disconnect the ground cable from battery for about 10 minutes and sometimes it works and sometimes it dont..but its worth a try.
 
The proper way to clear codes would be with a scanner...but since you probably dont have one would be to disconnect the ground cable from battery for about 10 minutes and sometimes it works and sometimes it dont..but its worth a try.

k ill give that whoe ground thing a whirl first but i can get a scanner if really necessary. ill read codes after again tomorrow and UPDATE. thanks for the help
 
A scanner is not required to properly clear codes, nor is removing the battery cable an appropriate method. All that you have to do is disconnect the test device (in your case, a jumper wire or paperclip) while the system is outputting stored codes.
 
A scanner is not required to properly clear codes, nor is removing the battery cable an appropriate method. All that you have to do is disconnect the test device (in your case, a jumper wire or paperclip) while the system is outputting stored codes.

sweet. Goin to do that now. I also picked up a fuel filter and if things go the way i planned I will change it tomorrow. My dad figures a J/y distributer may help solve my problems. does anyone agree? i cant see this helping as its risky enough not knowing if the thing works, let alone taking mine out and having to retime it and whatnot. anyone ever taken one off before? cause i spent 1/2 an hours tryin to get the one i wanted off and ran out of time. maybe if someone explained the trick I hope exhists it would make life easier. Thanks to all who have helped!
 
ok, system reads codes 11 in memory (system checks ok) aalong with the 67 relating to my nuetral or w/e. So no codes. wonderful...
 

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