Seriously guys! I need help!!!

[jaymegriffiths]

progress is at a stand still on my 1988 ford ranger. I need to figure out what is wrong with my '88 2.9 v6 2wd. I've replaced the ignition module, air idle control, air filter, timing is fine, spark plugs are fine, cap and rotor are recent, doesn't skip/miss. although there is a serious issue. I have a youtube Vid showing the Idle problem but it is acompanied by a MAJOR bogging issue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDH1Qfn6Vj4
as you can see, then engine refuses to find a steady idle, and simply "high idle's" at this point bogging does not usually occur. Once the truck has been driven, after a short time after being warmed up especially after being shut off for a few minutes it starts to have the surging idle shown in the video. It seems to be getting more severe. It then must be revved to well over normal idle and held there until it is moving and then driven as though its about to quit. It does not stay though, but instead inconsistantly comes and goes.
Any help would be GREATLY appeciated. I'm running out of ideas and dont have the Know how to decipher the problem myself. Im sure with a little guidance and the right person i could provide the necessary info to diagnose the problem.

 

[IMenriched]

progress is at a stand still on my 1988 ford ranger. I need to figure out what is wrong with my '88 2.9 v6 2wd. I've replaced the ignition module, air idle control, air filter, timing is fine, spark plugs are fine, cap and rotor are recent, doesn't skip/miss. although there is a serious issue. I have a youtube Vid showing the Idle problem but it is acompanied by a MAJOR bogging issue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDH1Qfn6Vj4
as you can see, then engine refuses to find a steady idle, and simply "high idle's" at this point bogging does not usually occur. Once the truck has been driven, after a short time after being warmed up especially after being shut off for a few minutes it starts to have the surging idle shown in the video. It seems to be getting more severe. It then must be revved to well over normal idle and held there until it is moving and then driven as though its about to quit. It does not stay though, but instead inconsistantly comes and goes.
Any help would be GREATLY appeciated. I'm running out of ideas and dont have the Know how to decipher the problem myself. Im sure with a little guidance and the right person i could provide the necessary info to diagnose the problem.

1st place to start would be getting the codes

 

[RustedRanger]

It does sound like what mine is has been doing. I got a voltmeter at walmart for $10 and some test leads for 2 something. My post is on here right near yours. My Ignition module looks to be the original so I kinda hope that's the problem but the code I get (14) says it could also be the ignition pick up and to change that I would have to remove the dist. and take it apart

 

[jaymegriffiths]

It does sound like what mine is has been doing. I got a voltmeter at walmart for $10 and some test leads for 2 something. My post is on here right near yours. My Ignition module looks to be the original so I kinda hope that's the problem but the code I get (14) says it could also be the ignition pick up and to change that I would have to remove the dist. and take it apart

I can live with whatever needs to be replaced, regardless of work. Its just diagnosing the problem that has me frustrated. I would love to check the codes, but i dont have an OBD1 or know how to use it. Ive een fighting this problem for a number of months now.

 

[fastpakr]

Do you have a voltmeter, or even a paperclip? The article on the tech page gives you everything you need.

 

[BlackBII]

You can use a test light and a paper clip.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2digitcodes.html

 

[fastpakr]

If an 88 has a function check engine light, he doesn't even need the test light.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

If an 88 has a function check engine light, he doesn't even need the test light.

about 2 months ago, for a period of about 1 month, my cehck engine light came on periodically for about a minute or so, sometimes more sometimes less, but always went out with time. also, now the Check oil light is on all the time, starting on and off about 2 months ago, the i put no leak in cause it was either burning or leaking, about a liter a week.(WOW) and it stopped leaking but the light came on. the no leak may have plugged my sending unit on the bottom of the oil pan or something similair.
So im about 95% sure my check engine light works. its been off for about a month now

 

[fastpakr]

Read the links BlackBII posted. He's given you everything you need to read the codes. Just do the tests and post the results here. We've given you the resources. Now it's your turn to do the legwork.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

Read the links BlackBII posted. He's given you everything you need to read the codes. Just do the tests and post the results here. We've given you the resources. Now it's your turn to do the legwork.

I dont understand the diagram B2 linked to, as im not sure what the thick wire and thin wire leading out the top are. plus remember this is my first time doing this. Ill read it again and see if i can figure it out.
could you explain the purpose of the "jumper?" also, how can the test be done using the check engine light?

 

[holyford86]

use the jumper then go inside the truck and turn the key on, count the blinks. ex: blink *pause* blink blink blink blink = 14

 

[jaymegriffiths]

use the jumper then go inside the truck and turn the key on, count the blinks. ex: blink *pause* blink blink blink blink = 14

just use a paper clip plugged into the pictured plug and turn key on and count blings? k ill give it a whirl. First gotta find the plug...
Someone coulda mentioned it was under the hood. anyways, it's showing a 67, diplays twice, then the six second pause ti sgnify memory codes, they are 14, 41, 95. What now?( ill go double check those now just in case of a bad read)

 

[fastpakr]

Insert a paperclip (or any solid piece of wire, etc) between the points where it indicates 'jump self test input...'.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

Codes:

67: -Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP
-Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions
- (M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault - PNP
which means somethings gibbled in my parking or w/e i dont care
Memory codes:

14: -Ignition pickup was erratic - Ignition Systems
(there was another about deisel something or other, irrelevant)

41:-(R) System lean - Fuel control
-(M) System was lean for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching)-fuel control

95:-(O) Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
(R) AIR not Diverting (AIRD) - Air Injection
(M) Possible bad fuel pump ground or open between fuel pump and pin 8 at PCM (Fuel Pump Monitor signal) - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

 

[jaymegriffiths]

Insert a paperclip (or any solid piece of wire, etc) between the points where it indicates 'jump self test input...'.

Done. Codes read.