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Sensor Locations


barbefunkoramaque

Active Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2008
Messages
35
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
I wrote one of the moderators about the ect but got no reply. Is the ECT DIRECTLY behind the coolant port on the Thermostat housing?

I have a code 21 on a 2.9 an 88 Ranger manual 2wd that has 85 K and sat for 5 years and smells rich as all get out.

No other codes except 77 missing the goose.

In fact is there any link to locations of these sensors. My Haynes manuals don't got into any of them.

Popdaddy

I popped out the Gauge sensor (LOOKS like a nut threaded plug with one wiRe hook up on it) lightly on the right of the thermostat housing to install a mechanical temp gauge. One of the moderators wrote something about this but he is not clear on whether this is right or not.

These two sensors ARE ABOUT THREE INCHES APART.
 
yep, its the one thats a PITA to get to right behind the T-stat housing, it takes a 1 inch wrench.
 
yep, its the one thats a PITA to get to right behind the T-stat housing, it takes a 1 inch wrench.

ahhhh so the one slightly to the right that is as I described, having only one wire going to it, is simply for the gauge, right.

the ECT has a coupling (mne is white) with several pins that connect to it. and as you said its a pain in the ass to get to due to TB above it, thermostat housing in front of it.

how much they usually cost?
 
ahhhh so the one slightly to the right that is as I described, having only one wire going to it, is simply for the gauge, right.

the ECT has a coupling (mne is white) with several pins that connect to it. and as you said its a pain in the ass to get to due to TB above it, thermostat housing in front of it.

how much they usually cost?


AutoZone’s got one for 18.99 with a 2 year warranty
 
Then do it right.

It's not that you have no codes. You have no result at all.

You can't believe the output of a test that complains it was done incorrectly.

agreed, you really need to get go information so as you're not just throwing parts at a problem blindly, at least with getting the codes (if there are any) you get some idea of what needs to be done or replaced. I practice to exercise is to pull codes, research the problem and use deductive reasoning.
 
Then do it right.

It's not that you have no codes. You have no result at all.

You can't believe the output of a test that complains it was done incorrectly.

sorry i meant to say the only other code i ever got was when i didnt time out the test right.... i redid the test and got only 21 the next time
 
yeah I popped it in and I still think it smells quite rich. The Vacuum is 17" ( I route my Vac gauge from the vac port that comes from the brakes on that little available vac port through the firewall and it hangs on my CB Mic Holder on the dash.

I will pull codes tomorrow but the Old lady wants sex now before she goes to work and I have to stay clean. My wife is sexy as hell but I wish she was one of those that likes to be rough handled by a greasy mechanic so I can just do my job and get back to my Ranger. LOL I am joking.
 
yeah I popped it in and I still think it smells quite rich. The Vacuum is 17" ( I route my Vac gauge from the vac port that comes from the brakes on that little available vac port through the firewall and it hangs on my CB Mic Holder on the dash.

I will pull codes tomorrow

You gave it time to fully warm up I assume...may need to erase the old codes
 
got the codes now

You gave it time to fully warm up I assume...may need to erase the old codes

Yes on a warmed up engine 170 or so or 190 on the 2000K RPM test

Using a actron scanner I got a 21, replaced the ECT and got only 11 or pass.

2000 RPM for 2 minutes test 11

Timing test was 27 degrees so that was spot on my timing is 10 BDTC so add 30 plus or minus 3 and your there

Vacuum sitting and warmed up as I mentioned is 17"

Only once I got the 77 when I forgot to WOT

Once i got 72 and 73 but I don't get it any more... i think that was because i didnt do that test right. mistook wait 10 seconds before you slightly open the throttle with open the throttle slightly for ten seconds.

So I have not taken it it emissions yet and the thing smells so rich I get woosy hanging round. Engine runs as well as a rich engine is gonna run

no fuel in the regulator vacuum

new rotor, cap wires and plugs

Sure I could take it to emissions but if you can smell the richness i doubt it would pass.

what should i do?
 
what MARG said, back to timing, might be a good place to head to start
 
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