Seafoam?

[AutoRnD]

Anyone ever use Seafoam? I saw a few videos and I'm interested. It seems simple enough to do. I was told on this site that I should change spark plugs and oil after doing so. If anyone has used it; how did it work out? I already bought the cans but I'm inexperienced and I don't want to make an expensive mistake. I'm being extremely careful with what I do and I don't mind moving slow as long as I'm doing it correctly.

 

[sgtsandman]

There are a few ways to use it. Dump a can in the tank before refueling and drive the vehicle until the tank is pretty much empty. That will clean the fuel injectors and the piston cylinders. More the injectors than the cylinders. I prefer Chevron Techron for that but Seafoam works.

Another way, but you have to be careful is to pull the vacuum hose off the brake booster and slowly pour the 1/3 of a can of seafoam into it. The engine may stall, nothing to be concerned about as long as you aren't dousing the hose with the Seafoam. If it stalls, leave it sit a few minutes and start it back up. The exhaust will fog the neighborhood for a while. This will clean the intake valves. Normally not needed but it is a method to use if you have problems with build up on the valves.

A second method is with the aerosol version. You spray it into the throttle body until the can is empty. It does the same thing as the vacuum hose method but doesn't have the risk of hydro locking the engine like the can into the vacuum hose method can cause. I use this on the Ecoboost engine because of the valve coking issue those engines can have.

A final method that I've heard of is to pour some into the oil to clean the oil passages and crank case. You do this about 500 miles before you do an oil change. If you do oil changes regularly and use a quality oil, you generally don't need to do this. Especially if you run synthetic oil.

Generally, the can in the fuel tank is the only method you really need to do. I run Techron once every Spring and Fall to keep the injectors clean.

So, to answer your question about changing the oil. Yes, if you pour it into the crankcase. No if you pour it into the fuel tank or use it to clean your intake vales.

 

[Jazzer]

Sgtsandman’s second method provides excellent mosquito control for your entire neighborhood!

 

[sgtsandman]

Sgtsandman’s second method provides excellent mosquito control for your entire neighborhood!

So does bobbywalter or Jr rolling their Bronco!

 

[AutoRnD]

There are a few ways to use it. Dump a can in the tank before refueling and drive the vehicle until the tank is pretty much empty. That will clean the fuel injectors and the piston cylinders. More the injectors than the cylinders. I prefer Chevron Techron for that but Seafoam works.

Another way, but you have to be careful is to pull the vacuum hose off the brake booster and slowly pour the 1/3 of a can of seafoam into it. The engine may stall, nothing to be concerned about as long as you aren't dousing the hose with the Seafoam. If it stalls, leave it sit a few minutes and start it back up. The exhaust will fog the neighborhood for a while. This will clean the intake valves. Normally not needed but it is a method to use if you have problems with build up on the valves.

A second method is with the aerosol version. You spray it into the throttle body until the can is empty. It does the same thing as the vacuum hose method but doesn't have the risk of hydro locking the engine like the can into the vacuum hose method can cause. I use this on the Ecoboost engine because of the valve coking issue those engines can have.

A final method that I've heard of is to pour some into the oil to clean the oil passages and crank case. You do this about 500 miles before you do an oil change. If you do oil changes regularly and use a quality oil, you generally don't need to do this. Especially if you run synthetic oil.

Generally, the can in the fuel tank is the only method you really need to do. I run Techron once every Spring and Fall to keep the injectors clean.

So, to answer your question about changing the oil. Yes, if you pour it into the crankcase. No if you pour it into the fuel tank or use it to clean your intake vales.

I saw a video where Techron was mention but as I did my research it seemed seafoam was preferred by reviewers. I'm a sucker for the most miniscule changes in effectiveness so it's important to me, I get anal about these things I'm realizing. I'm only interested because it seemed like it was effective and inexpensive on top of that not a lot of part removal. I want to take it easy but I'm so impatient it's really a thin rope to walk on for me. Is Techron that much better or are we talking preference level?

Question:
In the video I saw they both added to fuel and throttle body. Are they BOTH necessary? On a side note YES, I like to take extra steps and things most people consider unnecessary.

 

[sgtsandman]

I saw a video where Techron was mention but as I did my research it seemed seafoam was preferred by reviewers. I'm a sucker for the most miniscule changes in effectiveness so it's important to me, I get anal about these things I'm realizing. I'm only interested because it seemed like it was effective and inexpensive on top of that not a lot of part removal. I want to take it easy but I'm so impatient it's really a thin rope to walk on for me. Is Techron that much better or are we talking preference level?

Question:
In the video I saw they both added to fuel and throttle body. Are they BOTH necessary? On a side note YES, I like to take extra steps and things most people consider unnecessary.

Seafoam is cheaper. Whether one is more effective than the other, I can't say. I've been using Techron for years and it works. So, I see no reason to switch. What is important is to pour it in before you fill up the tank so it gets mixed well and run that tank full until the tank is darn near empty or the fuel light comes on. That will get you the most effect out of the can. Filling up before then will dilute the mixture and lessen it's effectiveness.

Generally, no both the throttle body and the fuel tank is necessary. For a new to you truck with unknowns on how it is maintained, it might not be a bad idea to do both. Normally, if anything needs cleaned in the intake, it is the throttle body itself and there is a better, dedicated cleaner for that.

Doing the Spring and Fall thing, like I do, is probably not necessary either. Once a year is probably all that is really needed to make sure and deposits on and in the injectors are removed.

 

[Josh B]

Anyone ever use Seafoam?
I already bought the cans but I'm inexperienced and I don't want to make an expensive mistake. I'm being extremely careful with what I do and I don't mind moving slow as long as I'm doing it correctly.

The only way to move slowly incorrectly is in front of a herd of Buffalo

 

[AutoRnD]

Seafoam is cheaper. Whether one is more effective than the other, I can't say. I've been using Techron for years and it works. So, I see no reason to switch. What is important is to pour it in before you fill up the tank so it gets mixed well and run that tank full until the tank is darn near empty or the fuel light comes on. That will get you the most effect out of the can. Filling up before then will dilute the mixture and lessen it's effectiveness.

Generally, no both the throttle body and the fuel tank is necessary. For a new to you truck with unknowns on how it is maintained, it might not be a bad idea to do both. Normally, if anything needs cleaned in the intake, it is the throttle body itself and there is a better, dedicated cleaner for that.

Doing the Spring and Fall thing, like I do, is probably not necessary either. Once a year is probably all that is really needed to make sure and deposits on and in the injectors are removed.

The video I saw by Project Farm on Youtube, he had an older Ranger(not sure what year but I love that model shape) that he removed the throttle body from. Looking at my engine I didn't see a point where I could do so. From what I saw I could only remove the intake? And add it direct but I didn't buy the one with the spray straw nozzle so that's where I slowed down and posted the thread.

 

[4.0blue98]

Berryman B-12 works for me and my carbon knock. Just dump a bottle in with a refuel. It's cheap too.

 

[sgtsandman]

The video I saw by Project Farm on Youtube, he had an older Ranger(not sure what year but I love that model shape) that he removed the throttle body from. Looking at my engine I didn't see a point where I could do so. From what I saw I could only remove the intake? And add it direct but I didn't buy the one with the spray straw nozzle so that's where I slowed down and posted the thread.

The throttle body is removable, either with bolts or screws. You don’t have to remove it to clean it. Just use a carb and throttle body cleaner that is in a spray can. Spray the face of the throttle plate then rotate the plate either by hand or with the cam on the side of the throttle body and spray the other side. A nylon brush is handy to have to scrub any build up in the plate and the housing. The main issue with the throttle body is the build up in the housing. It can bind the plate and restrict air flow. To access the throttle body plate, just remove the flexible hose that runs from the air cleaner housing to the throttle body. You normally don’t need to do more than that.

While you are there, if you have an Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve (EGR), remove that and clean it. Those can clog up from soot and other stuff and bind the valve. It will be mounted on the side of the intake by the throttle body and have a metal tube that runs from the valve to the exhaust and an electrical connector. Not all vehicles have that. So, if you can’t find it, don’t be concerned.

 

[AutoRnD]

About to seafoam my Ranger and found a bottle cap, a hose clamp and wire clamp in my air filter bay..

Forgot to get a new filter was going to get a WIX filter.

This is what was in there. Bothered that it's what I have to put back in.

It's all eaten up from being forced in?

 

[sgtsandman]

About to seafoam my Ranger and found a bottle cap, a hose clamp and wire clamp in my air filter bay..

View attachment 100628

Forgot to get a new filter was going to get a WIX filter.

This is what was in there. Bothered that it's what I have to put back in.

View attachment 100629
View attachment 100630

It's all eaten up from being forced in?

At least they are the "right" side of the filter. Can't get in the engine.

Your guess about the filter condition sounds like a reasonable explanation.

 

[AutoRnD]

Saw a video where some guy "Car Wizard"
Sprayed a Crest brand silicone lubricant on some electrical connectors like harnesses to get them to click and seat correctly. Is this the same thing?

This connector wont seat correctly.

 

[sgtsandman]

As long as you just apply it to the connector seal. Sure. The seal is probably what is binding up anyway.

 

[RobbieD]

This connector wont seat correctly.

The connectors have locking tabs that need to click in place for the connector to fully seat. Be real careful handling connectors; the plastic gets brittle with age and breaks easy.

Use the silicone spray that you got, it will likely help you click the connector in place. Just go easy.


And, get a new air filter as soon as you can. But I know that you already know that, right? See, you're learning quickly!