SAS cost?

[Zorro]

Oddly enough, a search didn't bring a single result ...

My truck is stock, and I realize that the suspension improvement I want is close to 2000$ (IE 4-6" lift with extended radius arms). Quite a chunk of change, that will not solve my issues with the TTB (mostly wheel bearing issues).

So I ask ... how much would it cost to do an SAS swap?

Guidelines? Thinking of swapping a D35 or D44 and would be doing most of the work myself, definitely not having it done in a shop. Thinking of going with a traditional coil sprung four-link ...

So what kind of total cost should one expect?

 

[JohnnyU]

Swapping the axle from a F-150 or an EB would yield the cheapest route. If you don't have to spend any money rebuilding the axles, you can probably do it for under $1000 plus the cost of the axles. That's assuming that you are able to do all the welding and can source parts from a salvage yard.

My swap is going to run me closer to $3000-$4000 due to rebuilding the axles and using some non-off-the-shelf parts.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

First thing to think about is what kind of wheeling are you going to be doing? And how big of a tire will you be running. And there is no D35 soil axle, perhaps you mean the d30 that is found under jeep front ends? Also do you want to keep it stock width or go full width?

 

[Zorro]

yeah, the D30 under jeeps, my bad.

Wheeling is mostly mud and sand, with a bit of rocky terrain. And a bit of road too. Tires ... thinking 33-35. More sounds overkill for what I do, definitely no more than 37", ever. Stock width for sure too. We have too tight wood trails for FW.

To be honest, I'm not thinking SAS for more flex (although it would be welcome) or strength, I'm thinking SAS for better reliability, as I keep repacking my wheel bearings every other ride due to water ingress and loosening. Chronic issues I have been trying to fix unsuccessfully for ages. I wouldn't mind loosing the sloppy steering feel as well.

So picking the right axle is important. I need one that was built for offroading that I won't be fixing every weekend.

 

[Maverick]

This is what I have into mine.

Dana 30 with all new bearings/seals/brakes/4.88 gears: $620
Partsmike Chevy 1 ton steering & tie-rod reamer: $350
Weld on c-wedges: $85
EB 3.5" springs: $160
New radius arm and c-bushings: $50
Custom built trac-bar: $100
Ford radius arms/brackets/coil buckets: FREE

Total: $1365

May seem a bit high for "just a dana 30" but considering everything is new or rebuilt I dont think it's too bad. If I upgrade to a D44 and keep it the same width, I can reuse everthing but the axle housing. I did get all the radius arms and junk for free but I wouldn't expect to pay over $100 for that stuff anyway.

 

[JohnnyU]

In that case, look for an Early Bronco axle, it's close to the stock width. Or, if you want a high pinion axle (I would) find a D44 out of an F150. It will need to be narrowed about 6", but has larger shafts and joints than the EB axle would.

 

[colinrmitchell]

I'm wanting to also stick a D30 under my truck. I haven't done too much checking, but it looks like parts from ballisticfabrication.com will be like $300. Gears will be like $200. I want to keep my springs and shocks, so I'm really hoping to make this cheap. It looks like I might need new hubs for the axle, which were $150. So I guess I'm looking at $650 so far, but little pieces-parts add up, too.

 

[colinrmitchell]

Oh, I forgot that the axle was $200, too.

 

[Evan]

If you are going to go through all the time and money of swapping a solid axle in, please don't use a D30. It is weaker than a D35 TTB, and doesn't flex any better. Many of them are unit bearing setups with no option for lockout hubs.

Go to a D44 at minimum to make it worth your while.

 

[Bent Bolt]

If you are going to go through all the time and money of swapping a solid axle in, please don't use a D30. It is weaker than a D35 TTB, and doesn't flex any better. Many of them are unit bearing setups with no option for lockout hubs.

Go to a D44 at minimum to make it worth your while.

I agree %100. Just think what you're going to do when you bust a D30 axle shaft when you have 35" tires on it. Drive it home ?? How when you can't unlock the front hubs--- there aren't any to unlock !!! Unless it's from a 66-71 EB which means a compete rebuild at minimum.

 

[wahlstrom1]

Well....I'm wrapping up my EBD44 sas conversion and here's my price breakdown so far:

Axle housing - Free
Gears - $240 for front and rear
Detroit Locker - $700....ya I got bent over
All Bushings - Free
Track Bar - $90
High-steer arms - $350
Tierod/draglink - $150
TRE's - $125
Ball joints - $200
Bearings - $75
Hubs - Free
U joints - $50
Gear setup - $400
Brake parts - $175
Machining costs - $140
Rwheel adapters - $200
7" Skyjacker coils - $140
5.5" Chevy leafs - $275
Belltech 6400's - $70
Brakelines - $60
Shocks - $150

TOTAL $3590

Still to come

$1400 for 5 new 35x13.50 crawlers
$300 (???) for prerunner front fenders

Thats without wheels and tires.....and it's not out of the garage yet....

-andrew

 

[Maverick]

If you are going to go through all the time and money of swapping a solid axle in, please don't use a D30. It is weaker than a D35 TTB, and doesn't flex any better.

If you have a 95 and up D30 with the 297x joints, the only thing that really makes it weaker is the ring gear being .36" smaller. That must mean a D44 is a HUGE upgrade from a D35 because it's ring gear is a whole 1" bigger. I bet the 5.13's you're running have the same if not less tooth engagement on the gear set as a D30 with 4.88's. The whole not flexing any better is a bold statement. Sure, maybe if you're running Ranger coils. When mines finished I'll gladly put it up against any TTB truck for flexing and still being able to drive normal down the road.

I agree %100. Just think what you're going to do when you bust a D30 axle shaft when you have 35" tires on it. Drive it home ?? How when you can't unlock the front hubs--- there aren't any to unlock !!!

Well if you have a lug wrench, a 13mm and a 10mm you can pull/replace an axle shaft out of one of those in under 5 minutes. They're about the easiest front axle ever to work on.

 

[4x4junkie]

If you are going to go through all the time and money of swapping a solid axle in, please don't use a D30. It is weaker than a D35 TTB, and doesn't flex any better. Many of them are unit bearing setups with no option for lockout hubs.

Go to a D44 at minimum to make it worth your while.

I'm wondering what does the axle size matter when it comes to flex? D30 or D44 (or even D60), if they're all the same width, and are solid, they should all flex the same, given everything else in the suspension is the same (excluding what effect their weight might have tugging against the coils maybe). I do agree though the D30 is not particularly well-suited for going under a Ranger (Supercabs in particular). Gear weakness aside, the D30 housing isn't really up to supporting all that weight (they should live better under a BII however).


Maverick, if you were just a wee bit closer, I'd probably take you up on that

Oh and (not to further jack the thread), the D35 pinion is much thicker than the D30's (and the D44 too), so it not flexing as much helps with gear strength too (the D44's is helped by it's bigger dia. ring).

 

[Maverick]

Maverick, if you were just a wee bit closer, I'd probably take you up on that

If I ever get my shit together. Since we're really the only ones from CA that frequent the forum that wheel, we're gonna have to meet up and go wheelin at some point I just had a feeling you'd chime in after my comment

 

[Rallytruck69]

Well i think a cut-n-turned dana 44 ttb with some camburg radius arms would take care of alot. maybe even have them shortened. the junkyards here want $500 for the 44 and camburg wants $550 for c-n-t and $550 for radius arms. Good luck.