SAS cost?

[CheapThrillB2]

1977 F150 D44 from junkyard $150 (complete)
used rotors/hubs from u-pull-it $50
Calipers $25
4.88 gear set $160
Install Kit $50 (?)
Aussie Locker $260
4 Balljoints $50
4340 Axle shafts $360
chevy D44 Knuckles $100 (bought a complete axle)
Hi-steer Arms $150
cut, weld, shorten Axle $60

All but the cut/weld, shorten was done myself.

$1450

 

[Evan]

If you have a 95 and up D30 with the 297x joints, the only thing that really makes it weaker is the ring gear being .36" smaller. That must mean a D44 is a HUGE upgrade from a D35 because it's ring gear is a whole 1" bigger. I bet the 5.13's you're running have the same if not less tooth engagement on the gear set as a D30 with 4.88's. The whole not flexing any better is a bold statement. Sure, maybe if you're running Ranger coils. When mines finished I'll gladly put it up against any TTB truck for flexing and still being able to drive normal down the road.



Well if you have a lug wrench, a 13mm and a 10mm you can pull/replace an axle shaft out of one of those in under 5 minutes. They're about the easiest front axle ever to work on.

So you're saying a D30 is almost as strong as a D35 if you find a 95+ axle. I agree. My point is this: why the hell spend all the time and money swapping a 30 in when there is no strength or performance gain over a 35??

A 44 is not a huge upgrade over the D35, but a worthwhile one. It's not due to the ring gear size increase, but due the the fact that you get stronger hubs, brakes, and bearings, as well as wide after-market parts support like chromo shafts. But a D35 with D44 outers is just about as strong as a 44. So for me the only worthwhile upgrade would be to a 60, however I definitely see the benefits to going up to a 44. The D30 though just seems downright rediculous and a waste of time and money, no offense to anyone running it.

Do you know how nice it is to just twist a hub instead of jacking the truck up on the trail, getting all your tools out and taking out the shaft? It may only be 5 minutes but it's still a PITA compared to turning a hub and hopping back in.

Junkie, I brought up the flex issue because 90% of people have it in their minds that a solid axle flexes better than TTB, so they think a SAS will provide better performance.

 

[rickcdewitt]

main problem with the d30 is the thin axle tubes,if you truss the hell out of it it will survive o.k.. still no real hubs,but i think the unit bearing handles water crossings better.

 

[rickcdewitt]

If I ever get my shit together. Since we're really the only ones from CA that frequent the forum that wheel,

 

[JohnnyU]

...a solid axle flexes better than TTB, so they think a SAS will provide better performance.

That's largely due to the fact that in 90% of situations, that statement is true.

 

[Hahnsb2]

If you truss a D30, and don't go crazy with tire sizes they are actually a decent choice, the same lug pattern and width is the biggest reason to use one. Of coarse unit bearings and no hubs kinda blow ass. I thought there was a manual hub conversion kit, no? I'd try to look for a D44 out of a rubicon...

 

[Evan]

I thought there was a manual hub conversion kit, no?

Last time I checked the kit was over $1000.

 

[Evan]

That's largely due to the fact that in 90% of situations, that statement is true.

Well, I guess in situations where 18" of wheel travel per side isn't enough, go with a solid axle.

 

[Maverick]

OK, so there's one more

 

[Maverick]

Last time I checked the kit was over $1000.

There is a cheaper and better alternative to those WARN kits now. Reid Racing (aka Dedenbear) just released these:

Its a completely new knuckle that allows you to use the hardware off a Chevy D44 or Jeep CJ axle. You get real hubs, bearings, and outer axles with true off the shelf replacability. It also allow you to run true high steer. It also works on the new Rubi D44 axles too.

More info: http://www.reidracing.biz/DANA30.php

 

[Evan]

There is a cheaper and better alternative to those WARN kits now. Reid Racing (aka Dedenbear) just released these:

Its a completely new knuckle that allows you to use the hardware off a Chevy D44 or Jeep CJ axle. You get real hubs, bearings, and outer axles with true off the shelf replacability. It also allow you to run true high steer. It also works on the new Rubi D44 axles too.

More info: http://www.reidracing.biz/DANA30.php

Cool!

 

[Hahnsb2]

That's cool, I wouldn't have a problem running a D30 now, I'd truss it too. The lack of real hubs would drive me crazy if I had a locker up front, I know mines damn noisy if I leave the hubs in so that solves that problem. Also handy if you break an axle and don't have a spare.
EDIT: Wait, you'd still loose the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern right?

 

[rickcdewitt]

EDIT: Wait, you'd still loose the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern right?

EDIT-saw mavericks link.hahn,i think theres a 5 on 4 1/2" dodge half ton but it has no hubs just drive flanges

 

[rickcdewitt]

There is a cheaper and better alternative to those WARN kits now. Reid Racing (aka Dedenbear) just released these:

Its a completely new knuckle that allows you to use the hardware off a Chevy D44 or Jeep CJ axle. You get real hubs, bearings, and outer axles with true off the shelf replacability. It also allow you to run true high steer. It also works on the new Rubi D44 axles too.

More info: http://www.reidracing.biz/DANA30.php

wow that is cool,i know a few people whose plans are going to change now

 

[rickcdewitt]

OK, so there's one more

haha yeah not everyone in california has dreads and goes to the gay day parade