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Rough Ride after 2in coil lift.


Dtotheevin

Member
Firefighter
EMT / Paramedic
Joined
Mar 7, 2022
Messages
16
City
USA
Vehicle Year
2004
Transmission
Manual
Hey everyone, I'm new to lifting/lowering vehicles. I have a 2004 Ranger 2wd w/ coil front end setup. I hit 200k miles and had a front end suspension rebuild and decided why not throw a lifted coil in there. I put a 2in lifted coil, Coil here, not from this website though. Then I had placed new shocks as well, Shocks here. I had the vehicle aligned and have yet to size up on tires. But MAN i fear anything not flat road. I read coil lifts are stiffer than a board but is there anything that can help?
 
are the shocks stuck, or to stiff? can you compress the shocks by jumping on the front bumper? or if you unhook the bottom shock mount, does the suspension get better? i have done a few lifts and lowers on vehicles and not had super stiff suspension unless the chocks were bad or i had springs to a heavier vehicle accidentally
 
are the shocks stuck, or to stiff? can you compress the shocks by jumping on the front bumper? or if you unhook the bottom shock mount, does the suspension get better? i have done a few lifts and lowers on vehicles and not had super stiff suspension unless the chocks were bad or i had springs to a heavier vehicle accidentally
I'm going in for a 12hr shift now so I'll try undoing the bottom of the shock in the morning but as for pushing the front bumper there absolutely no give. She be stout.
Edit: the shocks were new and hand compressible before applying.
 
might be the wrong springs got sent to you? still best to unhook the shock and make sure they didn't get over extended and stuck though
 
Something worth mentioning here...

All suspension parts after installed should be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension.

If your torqued them up at full suspension drop... it puts things in a bind.

Welcome to the world of Ford TTB....
 
Something worth mentioning here...

All suspension parts after installed should be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension.

If your torqued them up at full suspension drop... it puts things in a bind.

Welcome to the world of Ford TTB....
I didn't think 04 eas TTB.

Still good advice, though.
 
I didn't think 04 eas TTB.

Still good advice, though.

Opps... TIB

They're TIB for the most part... except the Trail head/Edge which are torsion bar front.
 
Something worth mentioning here...

All suspension parts after installed should be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension.

If your torqued them up at full suspension drop... it puts things in a bind.

Welcome to the world of Ford TTB....
I may not be the sharpest tool in the shed but isn't an 04 2wd front end an IFS set up? Again not any bright here.
 
might be the wrong springs got sent to you? still best to unhook the shock and make sure they didn't get over extended and stuck though
I double checked the email order and wife confirmed the same number so they're the right coil. Is it possible a shock can be too long? The ones mounted are for 1 - 3in lifts and mine is in the middle 2in.
 
I may not be the sharpest tool in the shed but isn't an 04 2wd front end an IFS set up? Again not any bright here.
I believe you're right.
 
Opps... TIB

They're TIB for the most part... except the Trail head/Edge which are torsion bar front.
Pretty sure those are coil spring IFS. Sometimes called SLA?
 
I should probably step away from the computer today... radiation treatments are affecting my thinking process.

What I originally said about torqueing up the suspension with the weight on the suspension is true. You torque it up a full drop it will bind. Regardless of design.
 
Something worth mentioning here...

All suspension parts after installed should be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension.

If your torqued them up at full suspension drop... it puts things in a bind.

Welcome to the world of Ford TTB....
Don't dismiss this advice, it applies to all suspensions. If you did the rebuild yourself you may have not known, or sometimes the "tech" does it wrong also. You can't replace the bushings and other suspension pieces and tighten them up with the vehicle hanging in the air and the front arms at full droop. It will bind up when you put weight on it. It's a pain to do, but you need to just snug things up and then let it on the ground and then crawl under there and fully tighten everything. A frontend shop will have a lift with ramps, so they can let the weight of the vehicle down on the lift and then tighten everything up while it's still on the lift and easily accessible.
 
Don't dismiss this advice, it applies to all suspensions. If you did the rebuild yourself you may have not known, or sometimes the "tech" does it wrong also. You can't replace the bushings and other suspension pieces and tighten them up with the vehicle hanging in the air and the front arms at full droop. It will bind up when you put weight on it. It's a pain to do, but you need to just snug things up and then let it on the ground and then crawl under there and fully tighten everything. A frontend shop will have a lift with ramps, so they can let the weight of the vehicle down on the lift and then tighten everything up while it's still on the lift and easily accessible.
I had it done at a small shop in town and I am unaware if it was in the air or grounded. They do have a lift. I guess at home work around the tire and losen and snug down parts? If I need the tire off just jack the LCA up to simulate weight correct?
 

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