remote filter

[bottledgt]

Not enough time has past then. Don't worry, they will eventually leak. And best to you on accessibility to tighten up the clamps (and distorted hose) between the steering box and the block. Even the best hose will eventually distort with repeated tightening.What you are refering to as "settles in", is the making of a leak.This is the place to use the "superior". You will not regret it. Beats having a catastrophy, later, while going down the highway, or worse yet, at high RPMs on some track.

But, remember this is all to be construed as -- opinion. This is a wonderful country that we live in. Feel free to be wrong! -- and cheap!

yeah i forgot...you cant be right on here. my last truck had em on for 6 yrs. is that enough time passing??? and yes i can tighten them on the truck. ive done a hell of a lot worse jobs. i also didnt mean repeated tighening, but periodic 'checking'.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

After reading this, I having hoses made. My dad sells hydraulic hoses and has the machine to crimp the ends on, IMO it isn't worth the risk to try something so rinky-dink.

I am surprised they would even try the barb/clamp method, it rarely even works with garden hoses.

 

[baddad457]

After reading this, I having hoses made. My dad sells hydraulic hoses and has the machine to crimp the ends on, IMO it isn't worth the risk to try something so rinky-dink.

I am surprised they would even try the barb/clamp method, it rarely even works with garden hoses.

Most of us shop for parts based on price, hence the kit maker's using rinky-dink stuff. It improves their profit margin. I changed the oil in mine last weekend, the hydraulic hoses outer skin has dry rotted in places and peeled, but no leaks. I can bet anyone that those barbed hoses would have been toast 2-3 years ago, if I had left them in place. The ends were leaking after 2 years time. The hydro hoses have never leaked.

 

[wade]

yeah i forgot...you cant be right on here.

Sure you can! I've been called out several times. And, I don't mind being told that someone thinks I'm wrong. Opinion is exactly that -- Opinion, and I'll try not to "lose my religion" over it! Its your truck and your money! If you're happy with what you have -- stand by it! I'm happy with what I have. I've stated my opinion, and I'll stand by it. We don't have to agree, and its OK!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Most of us shop for parts based on price, hence the kit maker's using rinky-dink stuff. It improves their profit margin. I changed the oil in mine last weekend, the hydraulic hoses outer skin has dry rotted in places and peeled, but no leaks. I can bet anyone that those barbed hoses would have been toast 2-3 years ago, if I had left them in place. The ends were leaking after 2 years time. The hydro hoses have never leaked.

50lbs of pressure is nothing for a hydraulic hose. My 1953 WD-45 tractor puts out thousands of pounds of pressure to two hoses that have been on the tractor since it was revived in the early 90's. We move small/medium sized round hay bales with it, they hold just fine (when too big I pick up the front of the tractor instead of the bale) The hoses still look fairly new (not brand new) with no cracking or peeling just a little faded.

 

[baddad457]

I've had to resort to using hydraulic lines for air brake hoses too. That nylon tubing used for that on 18 wheelers just plain sucks at any temp below 15*F. Snaps like twigs. Had to do a set between truck and trailer in Montana in -30*F one winter. That was fun.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Yah know.. I got the Duff kit, and haven't had problems. Granted mine is almost new, it does run at about 60psi before it gets warmed up (10w40). I've even got copper pipe spliced between the rubber hoses... it's a pretty bastard setup.

I had one leak on one fitting when I first fired her up, tightened her down a bit more and it's been fine.

 

[baddad457]

Yah know.. I got the Duff kit, and haven't had problems. Granted mine is almost new, it does run at about 60psi before it gets warmed up (10w40). I've even got copper pipe spliced between the rubber hoses... it's a pretty bastard setup..

Running hoses spliced like that is like playing with fire. You WILL get burned sooner or later. It takes all of 15 seconds (or less)for the oilpump to empty the oilpan with an open hose.

 

[88mudder]

what kind of pipe dope is the best? Still got a leak in the fittings on the threads..

 

[88mudder]

sorry guys im a dumbass and used household pipe thread sealant..gonna go try some automotive Permatex liquid teflon in the tube.

 

[wade]

Try a combination of a "paste" pipe sealant and teflon tape. Put the paste onto the threads, first. Then, wrap it with the tape - just 1-1/2 to 2 turns. (Make sure you wrap it in the direction of the threads.) Finish up with a dab of paste -- using your finger, smooth it over the top of the tape. (Be careful and don't get either the paste or the tape inside of the fitting where the oil will be flowing.) I'll betcha' it won't leak, now!
The only other alternative (that I can think of!), is the paste used with the "cloth" electrical tape. Sounds silly -- I know. But, if you ever do this, be forewarned, once subjected to heat, and the paste dries -- the cloth hardens. You'll be hard pressed to ever get it back apart. Next to permanent. You could always put it together with Devcon or JB Weld! Certainly should not leak! But, that is NOT an endorsement! I've seen people do sillier things.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

what kind of pipe dope is the best? Still got a leak in the fittings on the threads..

I have always got along great with just teflon tape. If it comes off as you thread the parts together you put it on the wrong way.

 

[wade]

I have always got along great with just teflon tape. If it comes off as you thread the parts together you put it on the wrong way.

The "paste-tape" method described above is for stubborn applications that persist in leaking.

 

[88mudder]

thanks guys. I will try the combination of Paste and Teflon!

 

[88mudder]

apparently this Permatex takes 72 hrs to dry fully..i got the fittings back on snugly but not wrenched down tight because i dont want to crack the pot metal. Is this correct?