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remote filter


Even the summit and jegs relocation kits leak? ive always heard that they were good kits....
 
Blacksheep said:
Even the summit and jegs relocation kits leak? ive always heard that they were good kits....
88mudder said:
What kits out there are actually good and wont leak?
They are good. Integrity (no leaks / cracks) is the responsibility of the installer. Namely, you and me. Once the o-ring is seated, don't tighten it any more than to align the ports to where you want the hoses to be. Put the plugs in the opposite ports (pipe sealer & teflon tape) before you install it onto the block. Overtighten it on the block and suffer the risk of damaging the o-ring or cracking the adapter. Before you put it on, lube the o-ring, just like you should lube a filter gasket, and ensure that it stays in the groove while installing the adapter. I would figure most of this to be "commonsense":tease:.

Are the links in Post #5 working for you's guys? I hope so. They contain some good info on this subject.

The 90° Rotating Oil Filter Adapter in the FRPP Catalog, Part# M-6880-C50, is machined from billet aluminum and is recommended for high performance. The Canton Part #22-595 looks just like it! If I ever have a problem with what is installed right now, I might look into one of them. This is just the block adapter, and it'll run ya' about $60-$70.
 
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Im using the elcheapo Transdapt kit from summit and it deosnt leak. Teflon tape is your friend.
 
Im using the elcheapo Transdapt kit from summit and it deosnt leak. Teflon tape is your friend.

If you're using the barbed fittings and hoses it came with...........just wait........The leaks will come..............:stirthepot:
 
nope, no leaks on mine. use good oil hose and double clamps. recheck em after some mileage a couple times till the hose settles in and youre good to roll,. AN line is superior by far but its not a necessity
 
The TD/Ford Racing kit I started with had the barbed fittings with hose clamps. The hose ends shrink in time and the clamps loosen. Then the leaks start. And where the clamps are located on the block ends, it's virtually impossible to tighten them up again while the motor's in the truck.
 
I saw a 302 powered model A Ford with a very very small oil filter. The owner said the filter was actually for a Mercedes Benz. He could not remember the part #. This filter was so small I almost think it could fit on a V8 Ranger and eliminate the constantly leaking remote adapter on the block.

If someone works at an auto parts maybe they can find the part#.
 
There is a short filter, but it's not short enough to clear the steering box. Even if it did, you wouldn't have clearance enough to remove the filter. As it is, there's only at best an inch of room between the filter adapter and the box. That makes about two inches total, the threaded insert the filter scres onto sticks out about 3/4", that leaves about 1-1/4" inch total for a filter. Even if there was a filter that short, it would need changing at least every 1,000 miles. To find a compatable shorter filter, all you need to do is look up the filter specs in a Fram, Wix or any other filter mfg's catalog. In addition to the shorter (than a Ford FL1A) there's also a longer one too. I looked these up long ago, I've since forgotten their numbers.
 
On my block adapter the in and out is not marked. Does it make a difference? On the filter end it is marked clearly. I did'nt pay attention when i took it apart as to witch hose went where. Thanks for any info on this. Brian
 
Yea, it does make a difference. Get em backward and the oil won't get past the bypass valve in the filter. The "out" hose from the adapter goes to the "in" port on the filter mount. The "out" port hose goes to the "in" port on the adapter. If in doubt, you can always put a pan under the truck and get someone to crank the motor with the coil wire off and see what hose the oil comes out of the block adpater.
 
bottledgt said:
nope, no leaks on mine.
Not enough time has past then. Don't worry, they will eventually leak. And best to you on accessibility to tighten up the clamps (and distorted hose) between the steering box and the block.
bottledgt said:
use good oil hose and double clamps.
Even the best hose will eventually distort with repeated tightening.
bottledgt said:
recheck em after some mileage a couple times till the hose settles in and youre good to roll.
What you are refering to as "settles in", is the making of a leak.
bottledgt said:
AN line is superior by far but its not a necessity
This is the place to use the "superior". You will not regret it. Beats having a catastrophy, later, while going down the highway, or worse yet, at high RPMs on some track.

But, remember this is all to be construed as -- opinion. This is a wonderful country that we live in. Feel free to be wrong! -- and cheap!
 
Foxracin said:
Mine came with the end already in the hoses. They're pressed in or something along those lines.
Like so. http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/trd-1113_w.jpg
I don't believe that particular block adapter will work. The hoses need to be perpendicular (90 degrees) to the mount. And -- are the fittings -- swivel fittings? It does make a difference. I would have only a minor bias against that style of push-in fitting. They're supposed to hold tighter as the pressure increases -- I believe. I'm just not sold on 'em. Swivels are higher quality and sooo much more convenient in terms of installation / hose positioning. You get what you pay for.
 
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Yea, the block adapter will not work. I ordered the 90 degree also for a extra 15 or so bucks. One end on each of the hoses has a swivel and makes it super easy to install. I think it works great for the money so far. Ive had it on 2 different motors and still no leaks.
 

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