2.3L ('83-'97) Reman. Cylinder Head Saga

[CAJones]

I would be concerned with the #1 cyl. Judging from those pictures that block needs machined! Anything short of that is a half assed repair.. Any machinist is gonna tell u, that u need to refinish that cylinder.

So that means pulling the whole block out of the truck? If so, I don't have the equipment to do that. I am not trying to get another 50k miles from this truck, 5k or 10k would be great, just trying to figure out what is worth it at this point.

 

[RonD]

It will be fine, even for 100+ K

Sure, its great to redo the whole engine, why wouldn't it be, its great to buy a new car when old cars ashtray gets dirty as well, can't argue either point for which is "better"
Practical, on the other hand is a different story

Just clean the surfaces so you get a good seal on head gasket

 

[Dirtman]

A 2.3 don't need no damn fancy pants "cylinder walls" to run.

 

[CAJones]

@RonD Thanks for giving level headed advice, getting the opinions of multiple people and they all say something slightly different. If I am going to pull the block why not just put a LS engine in.../s

@Dirtman I think that was sarcasm...

 

[CAJones]

The remanufactured head along with a new water pump and thermostat all arrived yesterday from Rockauto. I am now in the process of researching/reinstalling everything and I have a few questions:
1) I didn't remove the harmonic balancer when I took everything apart. The only way to remove the bolt is by bumping the engine? Is there no other way to do this? Since everything is take apart, this is a little sketchy to me. I really don't want to be impatient and break something. There is no way to keep the engine from turning over unless I put it in gear, which seems like a bad idea.
2) Torque specs for the head bolts are 50 ft-lbs and then rotate 90-100 degrees? Following the pattern attached?
3) Safest way to clean the block is with a gasket remover and a green scotch pad? Then wipe it down with brake cleaner before putting the gasket on? Wipe the cylinder walls with oil before putting the head on.
4) The new head (Famous Brand from Rockauto) says there is no cam seal included. I can't seem to find how to install it, just the attached diagram.
5) Why isn't the camshaft pulley included with a new head? Now I have to remove the pulley from the old head and put on the new one?

 

[Shran]

1: No, if you have a decent impact gun you should have no issues getting it out with that. May need to remove the radiator to have enough room though.
2: I can't verify the numbers you posted but that would indicate torque-to-yield bolts and it sounds correct to me.
3: That or a scuff/finger pad on a die grinder. Make sure you don't knock chunks down into the water and oil passages.
4: Not 100% sure as I have never installed a cam seal but I imagine it's just your typical round seal... a little RTV around the lip and some grease on the inside.
5: I imagine they don't include one because your old one, unless damaged, is totally reusable. Just extra expense to use a new one for no reason.

 

[CAJones]

Tried putting the truck in 5th gear and using a cheater bar, no luck. Grabbed my M18 impact driver (which I though wouldn't be powerful enough), took the bolt out of the harmonic balancer with no problem, then just rocked the harmonic balancer back and forth with my hands it popped right off.

When cleaning the block, I've tried to suck up as much of the debris with a shop vac in one hand and a scraper in the other. Seems like I should change the oil right after I get everything back together and flush the radiator until it runs clear? Is there a break in procedure once I put the remanufactured cylinder head back on? Other than go easy on things and check the engine over for any leaks or liquids mixing where they shouldn't be?

To pre-flush the radiator after cleaning the block off, would it be wise to fill the passageways in the block to flush debris out from the block. Since I took the water pump off, seems like it would just flow out of that hole? Side note, super cool to being doing this for the first time and seeing what is inside an engine in real life.

 

[tomw]

If you do it again, put the truck in 4th gear. It is stronger and a 'direct' connection, no reduction. Also the gear you should use whenever you are trying to 'bump start', FWIW.
There is no break-in of a cylinder head that I know of. Its parts don't need to get acquainted nearly as much as piston rings and cylinder walls which are supposed to form a moving seal.
You can use a garden hose to flush stuff out of the block via the water pump hole given it is removed. Unless you plopped stuff in the lower radiator hose, I would not worry about stuff in the radiator. You could flush the radiator given it is pretty much disconnected. I think I would use a hose, and try to push water backwards via the lower hose. Use some shop rags to seal the hose or nozzle and you should get a decent flow out the upper hose or radiator filler.
If the hoses are old and rock hard, it might be a good time to pop for some new heater hoses and upper/lower radiator hoses. I would also do the timing belt and the accessory drive belt(s) so you don't have to mess with stuff for a good long while. I assume you would install new spark plugs, or clean and gap the old ones if they are in decent condition. And last, new air and oil filters. I would suggest a rubber cam cover(rocker arm cover) gasket as the cork or cork-rubber gaskets seem to be totally dysfunctional. I have replaced several times, and never had one seal properly. I have a new rubber gasket on the shelf ready to install when I get a 'roundtoit'.
tom

 

[Shran]

I would definitely change the oil right away. You probably have at least some coolant in the oil pan from when you pulled the head.

 

[CAJones]

@tomw That is all great info, flushing the radiator before it is in is a good idea. Hoses seem to be in okay shape and the spark plugs are relatively new. Before I replace too many things I want to make sure the engine actually runs first. Definitely replacing all belts as both the timing and serpentine was heavily cracked. I got a gasket set from Fel-Pro so the valve cover gasket is a "PermaDry molded rubber" valve cover gasket.

The Permatex gasket remover didn't do much against the gasket material still stuck to the block. The Fel-Pro instructions for cleaning the head before putting a gasket on is to use a die grinder and fine wire brush. Green Scotch-Brite pads aren't really doing much, 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper was a little quicker to remove the stuck on graphite(?) gasket remnants. From reading online, the Roloc pads are a bit to aggressive for some people, is a wire brush a safe next step? Or a brass wire brush? You can see in the picture the small smooth section on the left side of cylinder 1/2 vs the stuck on gasket to the right of cylinder 2/3. The stuck on material isn't coming off with the plastic scraper I bought.

 

[Shran]

I use 3M Roloc bristle brushes for cleaning stuff like this. Scotchbrite roloc pads are a good option as well but they are a bit more aggressive especially on aluminum.

I probably wouldn't use sandpaper, you'll be at it forever.

The roloc brush I use, typically about $12 at NAPA

 

[CAJones]

I am trying to use tools that I can't easily mess up the flatness of the block. Internet seems to be 50/50 on whether the roloc discs are great or way to aggressive.

 

[Shran]

Those bristle brushes are made out of plastic, you really have to try to make them damage cast iron. They will not hurt your block. Like I said aluminum is a different story, but even then they're pretty safe.

 

[CAJones]

Two more questions I can't find solid answers to:
1) The only torque spec I could find for the camshaft sprocket is 52-70ft-lbs, seems right?
2) Should anything anti-seize (I have hi-temp copper bottle) be put on any of the bolts going back into the block/head? Crankshaft, camshaft sprocket, water pump, exhaust, intake, valve cover? I found a hard red sealant on the head sprocket bolt, which leads me to think it was Loctite or RTV from the previous owner.

 

[Shran]

I'd use antiseize on the water pump, exhaust and intake bolts for sure. IIRC you want to use thread sealant on the crank pulley bolt. I'd probably use blue locktite on the cam bolt... valve cover, meh, blue locktite or nothing.

Not sure on the torque spec.