Reinstalling transmission, won't seat against engine

[Wirenut]

I'm replacing my old transmission with a reman m5r1 along with a new flywheel, clutch, etc (all LUK). I'm ready to put the trans back in, but the release bearing is hitting the clutch fingers and keeping the transmission from fully seating. I can get a couple bolts started and pull it up if needed, but I'm worried the clutch won't disengage if I do. Has anyone seen this before or have any advice? I've double checked that I've got the correct the parts and even compared the distance the old and new slave cylinders protrude from the bell housing and it's the same.

The pics show the bearing against the clutch and how far the unit is from the engine when bearing hits.

 

[RobbieD]

I haven't run into this myself, but I seem to remember that the clutch disc can be put in backwards, which case can cause some kind of issue.

 

[Wirenut]

There's no mark on the disc but I've put the flat side against the flywheel, same as the old which does label direction and consistent with the FSM and Haynes manual. I guess I'll pull it apart and try to find something wrong.

 

[Shran]

Probably what you are running into is #1 resistance from the spring and #2 the input shaft is not quite lined up with the pilot bearing. Even being off a fraction of an inch will cause your problem. I would suggest wiggling it around while you lift and push - it will go in eventually, just needs to be lined up perfectly.

I don't think it has ever helped me but some suggest opening the bleeder on the slave cylinder while you try to push/wiggle... that will allegedly allow the slave cylinder to compress more easily (obviously with the hydraulic line disconnected or you will make a mess...)

 

[Wirenut]

I considered opening the valve but ignored the idea since I'd have to find a wrench (too lazy after all day crawling around under there) and I don't think it has any fluid, since it's new and easily compressed by hand. I removed and reinstalled the clutch just now so I know it's installed correctly and the alignment tool slides in with no issue. I also triple checked all the parts and compared them to the old. They're all alike and the slave even has the same PN, so I doubt it's that.
I am having issues aligning it with this cruddy Pittsburgh jack so maybe that's it. I'll try again early tomorrow with the bleeder opened. I have the engine supported and level, don't know if it matters or not but that seems like the best position.

 

[pjtoledo]

I get a couple long bolts and cut the heads off, use them as a guide.

 

[RobbieD]

Sounds like you do have the disc right.

On some of mine, I have had to do "the wiggle". When it lines up right, it should just slide right in.

 

[Uncle Gump]

It's typically the angle of the dangle...

 

[Wirenut]

Good to know. Looking through the dowel/bolt holes everything seems lined up so I assumed the input shaft would be but no matter how much or which direction I moved it, I had no luck. I could even get a few of the longer ones started and probably pull the whole thing together but it doesn't seem right. I may try that anyway if all else fails. Worst case, never disengages and gets towed to a shop. The slight chance seems better than just sending it off without trying.

I get a couple long bolts and cut the heads off, use them as a guide.

I've seen that posted elsewhere. May have to dig through the bolt bucket and see if I can find any the right size.

 

[4x4prepper]

> I can get a couple bolts started and pull it up if needed

Do not do that, that is a good way to strip the female threads or break the ears. I have not done it, but, I have fixed the damage after others have done it.

Before you put the transmission in, did you test the bearing on the input shaft to make sure it easily slid on and to the correct depth? I did a conversion swap that someone had trouble with and for his particular application, so everything fit together I went with a different bearing from a 4 cyl.

=====
pilot bearing for 1986 2.3L
Advance 18441409
National fc-65354
dimensions
.57-.600/14.40mm I.d.
=====

On one vehicle (think it was Chevy) the pilot bearing was a pin roller bearing instead of a bronze bearing and one of the needles had fallen out. Sort of like trying to get a UJ back together when it happens. Not going to happen no matter how hard you try pushing it together.

I agree on the wiggling, on the RBV, I just sort of shake them in sometimes.

 

[SenorNoob]

Shake, shake, shake. Shake your transmiiission. LOL

 

[Josh B]

I would not suggest releasing what you have in the slave cylinder lines, that is hard enough to get pressured up as it is. I really don't think you need line even hooked up before you get it bolted in.
When you do go on with that slave cylinder hose it needs to be connected with minimal pressure loss, by far best if you can do it in a slam dunk, which of itself is slim to none.
If that pressure is lost the only option then is a removal of the complete unit, bench bleed it, and reinstall it in one piece (not a piknik at all)

Sometimes at a Ford dealer they will locate a glitch in the numbers (kinda like in an old sci-fi movie) and I can tell you what that is.
When they began to realize the seriousness of the slave cylinder to reservoir "inability to bleed" issue, they made an entire new set-up for it, and sometimes those numbers get in with the original system..

The main problem with the two system options is that NO PART of either system is interchangeable with the other system. If going to the "no bleed issue" system EVERY part must be changed to the new

I am not certain how many models were affected by this but am fairly certain both 93 and 94, and possibly 95-96 and others but I do not know which ones

 

[Josh B]

Oh yeah, I think you might find they're right also about the angle of attack going on with it.
If the front holds on to anything at all maybe shift towards the back and midway points to manuver it around and hope it will find the right combination it needs to slip on in there
Good luck with it there man

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Either the pilot bushing/bearing is boning you, or you gotta things up a little better with the tool. Sometimes its better to use an old input shaft to align it.

 

[4x4prepper]

This explains the wiggling AND why you might have fitment trouble. Plus, how to resolve it. I think TRS is a much better site and I am not promoting the following site, BUT, this may resolve your problem.

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